Some designs of wooden houses need exterior finish. Either it's old houses that have lost their appearance, or it's houses with new walls made of timber or logs. Whatever the reason, there is a perfectly acceptable option - siding. Quickly, simply, economically. Moreover, this material is available, they are made in a sufficiently large range of textures and colors, from various materials, and even to sew wooden house it's quite simple. To do this, it is enough to have the necessary tool, "even" hands and, most importantly, desire. With regard to knowledge of how to do this and what is the best choice of siding for plating wooden house, in this article for you some valuable practical advice has been prepared.
Sheathing of a wooden house with siding. Which siding to choose?
The popularity of siding in owners of private houses made of wood is quite high. This situation has developed, above all, thanks to technical specifications the material itself at the same time as its price availability. For today in the building market manufacturers offer the following:
- Vinyl
- Ground floor
- Aluminum
- Copper
- Steel
- Cement
- Wood
Each type of siding has its own advantages and certain disadvantages, but, in general, for the lining of a wooden house, you will be able to literally any option. Here, rather, everything will depend on what kind of texture and color solution you like more, and what budget you have. The most expensive are copper and wooden siding. The cheapest is vinyl. He also takes the first place in terms of demand. The cement siding is the least used. In the decoration of commercial premises or public buildings, the preference is given to copper and steel siding.
For plating a wooden house with your own hands, it's best to use vinyl or wooden siding.
How to Calculate Materials for Siding a Wooden House with Siding
Before buying the siding and the elements of the supporting structure for the cladding of the wooden house, the careful owner will make the calculation of the material. This is important for two reasons:
- To simply buy the right amount of material at once and do not chase the car several times for missing nodes and strips or sheets of siding
- To not spend extra money and do not buy more than you need
Frame elements
A little more difficult with the calculation of the elements of the frame. To find out the number of the guide profile, you need to measure the lengths of all corners of the house (including the places where the walls are adjacent to the door and window slopes), its perimeter - and multiply all this by two. To the resulting value, add the values for the perimeter lengths of the windows and doors.
The rack profile is calculated based on the distance between the top and bottom points from the ground to the interface between the wall and the roof. The number of such values should be multiplied by the length of the perimeter of the house, divided by 0.6 meters (step of installing the rack profiles). In this way, you will get the values of the desired number of profiles in running meters.
Calculation of additional components and components
It is very simple to calculate additional nodes and details for both the frame and for the siding itself. Given that the structure of the frame from the galvanized profile under the siding is similar to the design of other systems of ventilated facades, in the mounting profile to the wall using a special U-shaped fastener. This solution will allow you to move the profile to the distance from the wall you need under the heater and to align the profiles in relation to each other in a flat plane. You can find out the number of fasteners by dividing the total length of the racks by 0.7 (the distance between the fastening elements is 0.7 m).
Of course, you will need self-tapping screws. They should be purchased in two types:
- TN25 (or 35) on wood
- LN9 - for securing the siding to a metal frame
The need for TN screws is calculated simply - the number of U-shaped fasteners is multiplied by two + 5 per cent reserve. LN self-tapping screws can only be calculated approximately.
Technology of siding of a wooden house
To begin with, check the presence of the tool. You will need:
- A cordless screwdriver or a drill with a speed control button
- Level
- Roulette
- Screwdriver
- Pliers
- A hammer
At the first stage, the spreading is performed. With a step of 600 mm, starting from the previously marked center of the wall, mark the vertical lines. For each of them, note the places where the U-shaped fasteners will be screwed (we already said that the recommended step between them is 700 mm).
At the end of the marking, fix the P-brackets to the wall. After that, mount the rack profiles. There is a certain nuance here - rack profiles must be in one flat plane. To achieve this result, the near to the corners of the profile are initially mounted. A nylon cord stretches between them, which serves as a guide for leveling the other profiles in one plane. The pitch between horizontal threads is allowed within one meter - this is quite enough to minimize possible errors.
In this article, we did not consider the technique of assembling the frame from a galvanized profile, believing that this topic requires more detailed study and deserves a separate article.
Skeleton casing
After the installation of the frame is completed, we put the chosen heat insulation materials, the roll steam and waterproofing and proceed directly to. The first step is to attach the starting rail. It is installed at the bottom of the wall ideally at the horizontal level. Already starting from it, the strip after the strip, is going to sheath the wall to the level of the upper horizon.
When assembling it is important to monitor that the lower lock on the strip, when connected to the upper slot, is tight.
Siding is easy to install, but there may be additional difficulties in finishing windows and doorways. requires explanations and a step-by-step description of the installation work. This part of the work is hard work.
Many manufacturers (for example, Grand Line) produce all necessary elements for window siding. Read more about the Grand Line siding. The article discusses the advantages of the material, the color palette and the cost of the Grand Line siding.
Let's just give one more comment - even with the siding of the wooden house of the new building categorically it is not recommended to mount the siding directly to the wall, no matter how enticing you such a decision did not seem. This has its negative consequences:
- You can not equip additional insulation, this is the first negative
- Over time, wooden walls can deform from shrinkage or for other reasons, siding, respectively, will also lead
And the second tip: it is professionally incorrect to do wooden siding for a siding device - only a skeleton made of galvanized profile. This is safer, plus the same reasons as when installing directly on a wooden wall - timber is just prone to deformations from changes in temperature changes and humidity levels.
In conclusion, it remains to add that, perhaps, the siding of your first wall will take considerable time. But, having understood the basis, all the further work will not take much time and effort.
Video on how to sew a wooden house with siding outside
Sheathing of a wooden house with siding. Assembly details.
Technology sheathing siding wooden house. Subtlety and nuance of each stage of installation.
Siding is an excellent material for facing the house. At its affordable cost, it has many positive operational and technical characteristics.
You are given detailed instructions on how to self-assembly siding. The manual is universal. Following its provisions, you will be able to finish any siding that provides installation on the crate: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.
Siding is best attached to a pre-mounted crate. We work in the following order.
The first stage is choosing the material
The frame can be assembled from a wooden beam or metal profile. Metal products are more durable and durable. In addition, the metal crate is much easier to attach to an uneven base.
Installation of profiles is carried out with a half-meter step. Suspension is used for fastening to the wall. This technique will allow to level the surface drops and fix the elements of the frame by level.
Wooden crate is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is forbidden that:
- the material was layered;
- was deformed;
- had cyanotic stains and traces of rot, etc.
Elements of wooden lathing must be impregnated with fire retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built of wood elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed products.
The second stage is the preparation of the foundation
The lining is easiest to attach to an even base. First of all, we remove any details that might interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.
The third stage is the installation of guides
Siding is best fixed horizontally. In this case, the bars or the profiles of the battens are fixed vertically.
To fix the rail to the wooden walls we use nails or screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fix it with dowels, preliminary drilling for them holes in the wall of the house.
Each level is leveled.
Important! If you plan to perform external insulation of walls, a siding for siding is best secured after all the insulation works have been completed. In this case, the crate will be two: for insulating materials and for facing. In this case, the racks of the two frames must be placed parallel to each other.
You can, of course, try to lay the insulation layers after fixing the siding for the siding, but it's not so convenient.
We mount J-profiles
Starting guides should be fixed perfectly, because from the correctness of their installation depends the quality of the entire cladding.
First step. Take the level and find the lowest point on the crate. We retreat from it upwards 50 mm and we put a label. For this, screw the screw into the rail a little.
The second step. Continuously move around the structure and continue to put self-tapping marks to fix the starting profiles. Screws are screwed into the corners of the house.
The third step. We pull the rope between the corner marks.
The fourth step. We mark on the rails the boundaries of the installation of the angular profiles. Take the profile itself, apply it to the corner of the frame structure and place it around the edges of the mark with a pencil.
Important! Between profiles, leave a 1-centimeter gap to compensate for temperature deformation.
Between the starting guides and the nail planks leave a gap.
In order not to make a 6 mm indentation, it is possible to cut off parts of the nailing strips so that they do not rest on the J-profile with temperature changes.
Important! Start profiles must be mounted horizontally! Correct the deviation as long as necessary.
If you install guides with deviations from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to correct this in the future.
Mount external corner profiles
First step. Mark the spotlights. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be in the future.
The second step. Apply the guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3 mm gap to the soffit or the roof. We fix the profile with screws.
The lower boundary of the element is placed 0.6 cm below the edge of the starting profile.
The third step. Verify the verticality of the installation. In the absence of deviations, fix the bottom, and after - the rest of the place. Experts do not advise placing fasteners in the corner elements too often.
If the house is above 300 cm, the profiles will have to be superimposed one on the other. To do this, trim the top profile. As a result, a 9-millimeter gap must remain between the slats of the joining elements. When laying the elements we maintain a 2.5 cm overlap.
Important! The profiles are docked on one level on each side of the house.
If the plinth has a protruding structure, the profile is shortened so that there is a 6 mm gap between it and the base.
Helpful advice! Instead of a corner profile it is allowed to install 2 J-elements (starting). So you can save money. But this solution has its own drawback - the angle will not be as tight as when using a special angular profile. Having decided to use this method, pre-glue the wall behind a similar angle with a strip of roll waterproofing material.
We mount internal corner profiles
The order of installation of these elements does not significantly differ from the technology of arrangement of external angles - between the profile and the spotlight we leave an indentation of 3 mm, the lower end of the profile is lowered below the J-bar by 0.6 cm.
If there is a protruding base or other element from the bottom, or from the general level, then we leave a 6 mm indentation between it and the profile - it is impossible that the profile of the inner corner abuts against it.
There are 3 methods for arranging interior corners, see figure.
If the height of the wall is more than 300 cm, we perform the splicing of the profiles. The technology is the same as for the arrangement of external corners.
Between the slats, leave the 9 mm indentation, carefully cutting off excess material. The overlap of the upper element on the lower one is 2.5 cm. The fixing elements are installed with a 4-centimeter step, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this purpose. The exception is the highest point. Here fasteners need to be installed at the top of the hole.
Mount edging frames
The majority of inexperienced masters of difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing window and door openings. The order of work will vary depending on how the openings are arranged relative to the wall plane.
Openings in the same plane with a facade
In this case, we do the following.
First step. We perform waterproofing of openings.
The second step. We fix on the opening of the platbands or J-profiles. Each opening is equipped with 4 casings: pairs of vertical and pairs of horizontal.
The third step. Connect the profiles.
To make the junction of the platbands as neat as possible, we do this:
The platband below is connected in exactly the same way, only the bridges will have to be cut and bent on the lateral elements for their further overlapping on the profile below.
The apertures are recessed into the facade
When installing okolokonnyh profiles work with the same recommendations as when installing the trims, ie. create on the profile incisions corresponding to the depth of the opening, and then bend the bridges and insert them into the finish elements.
Do not be lazy to understand the principles of bending off such bridges. We make them so that they cover the joint of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture can not penetrate inside.
First step. We insert the first panel of facing in the angular profile and in the lock connection of the starting strip.
Important! Between the first cladding element and the lower part of the angle lock we leave a 6 mm thermal gap.
The second step. Attach the panel to the crate.
It is important to observe the size of the process indents. If the cladding is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm spacing, if in the cold - we increase the gap to 9 mm. When setting panel trim, the indentation can be reduced.
Build panels
Elements cladding build up overlap or with the help of an H-profile.
When fixing the panels overlap, you must first shorten the locks facing panels and fastening frames, so that the result is an overlap of 2.5 cm in length.
The installation of the H-profile is performed similarly to the angular elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the spotlight, from the bottom we drop it by 0.6 cm relative to the starting profile.
Important! Between the H-profile and any obstacles on the facade of the house leave a 6-millimeter indentation.
Mount the rest of the siding
We continue facing the house with siding. The technology of operation is similar to the order of fastening of the first panel.
Important! Each 2-3 rows check the horizontality of the lining with a level.
Having reached the opening, delete the unnecessary piece of the panel falling on the opening.
We secure the fastening of the panels with the help of "hooks". For this we need a punch.
Under the roofing structure we attach the J-profile.
We work in the following order.
First step. We measure the distance between the lower part of the lock of the finish element and the lock of the penultimate facing panel.
The second step. We subtract the 1-2 mm indent from the received measurement.
The third step. Mark the whole panel, cut off its upper part with the lock joint.
The fourth step. We create "hooks" at the top of the element with a 20-centimeter step. For this we make cuts and bend them to the front side.
Fifth step. We insert the clipped element into the penultimate siding panel. With a slight movement up, snap in the inserted element in the locking joint of the finish profile.
Mount the pediment
We trim the gable around the perimeter. All fasteners, except the top, are installed in the center of the holes. The upper fastening element is placed at the top of the hole. You can trim both profiles for arranging the interior corners, and the starting profile.
The installation procedure is similar to the mounting wall panels. We cut the edges of the elements and connect them with the locks of the receiving profiles. Remember the 6 mm indentation when mounting in warm weather and 9 mm when doing work in winter.
The last element of the gable paneling is fastened directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.
The cladding is completed.
To finish the house paneling was the most successful, you need to know certain subtleties of doing this work. There is a list of general recommendations for any siding, as well as individual tips for panels made from a specific material.
Siding "INSI" is made of galvanized steel, covered with a layer of polymer composition, and therefore inherits all the advantages of this material:• resistance to temperature changes (-50 ° C to + 80 ° C) and mechanical damage;
• Long service life with preservation of initial properties (about 50 years);
• ecological compatibility;
• incombustibility;
• Ability to mount both horizontally and vertically;
• protection of the building against overheating (in a ventilated facade system);
• and when you choose one of the two new colors (alder or rosewood) - a complete imitation of the appearance.
Successful work!
Video - Mounting the siding with your own hands
Finishing the house with a siding with your own hands can be done by almost any home craftsman. Special knowledge and any special skills such a procedure does not require.
1
At present, two types of materials are used to make the exterior of private houses elegant and original. You can trim the facades with steel or aluminum, as well as vinyl products. has many advantages. Aluminum and steel panels can be installed on a surface of any type at a convenient time for you. This siding is mounted both vertically and horizontally. It serves without breakdowns for 30-40 years (even in severe climatic conditions), characterized by unique reliability and strength.
House siding
Vinyl products are a worthy competitor to metal scoring. In recent years, they are used more and more often. This siding fell in love with the home masters for their special properties. It is very functional, practical and at the same time has excellent aesthetic indicators. The main operational advantages of plastic products for finishing the facades of private houses are given below:
- ease of installation;
- high level of fire safety (material refers to the group of non-combustible);
- environmental Safety;
- unique resistance to the influence of alkaline and acidic media, moisture, temperature changes;
- low weight of vinyl products (due to this, there is no need to carry out works to strengthen the existing foundation of residential construction);
- long service life (up to 50-60 years);
- the invariance of physical and decorative properties during the guaranteed operating time;
- elegant selection of a variety of textures and color shades;
- affordable cost;
- simplicity of care.
Polyvinyl chloride siding, being incombustible, can be deformed at high temperatures. Therefore, next to the private house, which is sheathed with such material, it is forbidden to equip the grounds for installing a barbecue and other structures that involve the use of open fire. Next, we will discuss in detail how the facade of the house is decorated with vinyl siding with its own hands. It should be noted that the technology that we will describe is suitable for mounting metal (from galvanized steel or aluminum) products.
2
Before assembling the casing, care must be taken to prepare the walls. Finishing siding requires several simple operations. You need to clean the old plaster of the brick surface around the existing openings, and then dismantle the drainpipes, outdoor lighting and other projecting parts available on the facade. In cases where you plan to trim a house with a wooden shell, you will need to carefully check the old panels, remove rotten and collapsing products, and the rest to further strengthen.
Cleaning of facades before finishing
It is also recommended to audit the accuracy of installing windows. All found errors are desirable to eliminate - to adjust the blocks and frames. Such work will take you a minimum of time and at the same time will ensure the correct and reliable installation of a new skin. Experts advise always to install the siding on a previously made frame (it is usually called a crate). The additional skeleton will smooth out all irregularities of the facade. In addition, the crate will form an air gap between the wall and the cladding, thereby increasing the heat and noise insulation of residential buildings.
The frame is made of wood or from metal profiles. Choose the material that suits you best. At the same time, remember that the crate should be mounted horizontally, if you want to install the siding vertically. But with the vertical installation of the skin, the lath is made horizontal. The frame must be carefully fixed around the openings, as well as at the corners of the facade. The skeleton for mounting the siding is fixed on the facade with nails, dowels, other fasteners.
In most cases, the distance between the individual elements of the crate is maintained at 0.35-0.4 m. But if strong winds often blow in the area where your house is located, it is better to be safe and place the carcass parts more tightly. After installing the battens, lay between its elements or a popular nowadays polystyrene insulation. Such materials are inexpensive, and the effect from their use is obvious - the house will be warm even in a very cold and snowy winter.
3
Finishing facades begins with the installation of starting and additional parts of vinyl products. Everything is elementary here. You need to install a special strip on the outline of the facade. It is called the starting line. The strip is mounted along the bottom line of the old plating. If there is not one (say you built your house from scratch), proceed as follows. Find the point on the facade that is below all. Measure from it 4 cm upwards and beat off the line to be lined (horizontal). At this point, you will also mount the starting strip. You can nail it or use other hardware.
House after facing with siding
If the length of one strip is not enough, install next to it another, having sustained a distance between them of about 5.5-6 mm.
To the facades of residential houses from the siding had an attractive appearance and a long life, it is necessary to mount vinyl corners (external and internal) on them. These elements will allow you to form beautiful joints between the elements of the construction, located in mutually perpendicular directions. The corners are fixed with small nails in increments of 0.2 to 0.3 m. Window openings are recommended to decorate with slats in the form of the letter J.
After that, perform the basic installation work. The scheme is as follows:
- Insert the lower edge of the PVC strip into the starting strip, and fasten the upper part to the facade with nails. Products that reach the corners, should be shortened (literally by 1.5-2.5 mm). Due to this, the facing material will have space for natural expansion and compression during operation, which means that the finish will not warp and warp.
- By the same algorithm, you mount all the subsequent rows of products, but in this case, their lower part should be fixed for the protrusion of the previous slats.
- If the facade has window openings, the panel should be wound up for the established J-profile. Do not fasten its upper part in advance. Then you can unbend it without problems, get the bar, and then fix the curved profile tightly.
- The last panel is attached to the frame with universal screws or tin nails. It is advisable to make in advance holes in it with the required dimensions, so that the hardware does not damage the surface of the siding.
So you made a self-tiling your house siding. You can admire the look of the facade, trimmed with vinyl (aluminum, steel) panels!
4
Now on the construction market there is one more kind of siding, differing in its structure from PVC and metal products. It is made of wood natural fibers, cement, water and special additives. All these components are mixed and waiting until it hardens. The result is a fiber cement siding, which is not afraid of insects, fire, water. Finished products are characterized by increased durability. They are easy to wash with soapy water. If you want, you can always re-paint such siding in the desired shade, if the old color gets bored.
Fiber cement panels
Fibro-cement products are produced with a relief and main surface (most often in the form of plates of different sizes, less often in the form of racks of great length and small width). This siding is also mounted on the frame. For fastening plates or slats it is allowed to use nails with a small hat and universal screws. But it is better to use special staples (so-called clamps), which are set really fast, provide an invisible siding attachment, ensure a uniform distribution of loads on the facade from fiber-cement products.
Facing activities with the help of clamps are implemented as follows:
- Mount the crate.
- Cut the plates according to the required parameters.
- Install the lower line of staples on the facade (they are attached to pre-mounted vertical profiles and horizontal slats with 0.5-2 centimeter self-tapping screws).
- Support the first fibrocement product on the fixed clamps (the ends of the plates should rest against the bar).
- The upper edge of the products are fixed with the same staples. They install the next row of plates (racks). You fix them with clamps. In this scheme, collect the remaining series.
Vertical edges of fiber-cement products are filled with sealant (glue their ends with a paint tape in advance). And horizontally the plates are connected to the castle. In the outer joints, the products are mounted with a slope of 45 °, in the outer joints - at a right angle. Window openings (if any on the facade) are framed by fibrocement slats. Also for these purposes, it is possible to use galvanized steel strips with an additional polymer coating.
The construction of a private house implies not only its interior decoration, but also the skin of the external part, that is, the facade. The most popular solution for today is siding, that is, panels from different materials with a lock and an edge. It has a number of valuable advantages, excellent performance characteristics and attractive appearance. Siding can be smooth and glossy, mimic the structure of wood or stone, so it perfectly fits into any landscape. The most important thing is to choose the right material and put it in accordance with all the rules.
Types of siding panels
Depending on the material from which the siding is made, it can be wooden, PVC (vinyl), acrylic, fiber cement or metal (steel, zinc, aluminum). All types of finishes differ in cost, durability, resistance to all kinds of damage and other characteristics.
| Kind of siding | disadvantages | |
|---|---|---|
| Can reproduce any texture, effect it looks, has a wide assortment of colors. Sheathing of this type of siding is resistant to negative factors (can be operated at a temperature of -50 to +50), is lightweight and at an affordable price | At high humidity and a sharp drop in temperature can be deformed, afraid of mechanical damage, has a relatively short operational period |
| Resistance to burning in the sun and high temperatures (up to +85 degrees), excellent strength characteristics, resistance to chemicals, does not have the ability to ignite | High price |
| The material is durable and durable, resistant to temperature changes, does not promote reproduction of fungal spores and harmful microorganisms | Low sound insulation, the possibility of peeling off the coating from the metal base in the cut locations. Aluminum siding is susceptible to mechanical damage, after which it is no longer possible to return it to its original form |
| High ecological compatibility, thermal insulation, variety of texture and pattern on the cut | Inadequate strength, fragility, ability to ignite and deform, difficulty in care, high cost |
| The material can replace a natural stone, as it is produced from cement, water, sand and cellulose. Resistant to weathering, not subject to corrosion, rotting, does not promote fungus and mold development, easy operation | The high price, the difficulty in buying (almost not common in Russia) |
If we are talking about color solutions, then the most common are pastel materials - they are much cheaper than bright siding (this is due to the additives of expensive components that prevent burnout of the finish in the sun).
On the material of vinyl should be said separately, since it is considered the most practical and inexpensive option for finishing the facade of any building. It is made of PVC panels and in a large assortment is presented in any specialized store or in the construction market. In addition, vinyl panels are quite easy to install, so all the work can be done on their own.
Varieties and elements of the siding
In order not to make a mistake when selecting and installing a siding, it is necessary to deal with varieties and additional elements of the material. Depending on the design characteristics and installation features, the siding is divided into several types.
Horizontal and vertical siding
Vinyl panels can be horizontal or vertical. The second type is less familiar to the domestic consumer, since in Russia horizontal panels are often used for finishing buildings.
To correctly choose the type of material, it is necessary to take into account some structural differences between horizontal and vertical siding.
- Different geometry and configuration of elements. Theoretically, vertical siding can be mounted horizontally, but without the relevant experience and knowledge, it is rather difficult to do - installation can eventually be incorrect, which will lead to water leakage and other troubles.
- No additional perforation. In the lower part of the horizontal panels there is a perforation, while in the vertical part there is no perforation.
Otherwise, these types of siding practically do not differ from each other, since they are made from the same material, and also require certain rules to be observed during installation.
Wall panels
This type of material is intended for facing vertical surfaces and, in turn, is divided into several types:
The main difference of the board from the Christmas tree is the presence of a characteristic break in the center of the panel, the first type being most common in Europe and Russia, and the second one in the USA and Canada. The types of siding are marked with Latin letters T (triple herringbone), D (double) and S (single). After the letter designation is a number that means the width of the panel - for example, marking S 4.5 denotes a single herringbone panel with a bend thickness of 4.5 inches (about 114 mm).
Basement siding is a material that is used to cover the lower part of the building. They are twice as thick as conventional facing panels, due to which they are distinguished by their high strength, they are not subject to deformation and all kinds of damage. At the same time, the weight of the panels is very small, that is, for their installation, it is not necessary to further strengthen the foundation.
Soffit
Soffit is inherently a ceiling siding, which is used to close the protruding part of the roof and finish the ceilings in attics and attics. Such panels not only give the building a perfect and finished look, but also protect the space under the roof from rain, insects, etc. Structurally, they are divided into two and three-lane, and in addition, they are perforated, mixed and unperforated.
Additional elements
To make the siding look attractive, you need to use not only panels, but also profiles and accessories that give it a complete look.
Such additional elements include:
- the start profile is used to install the first row of panels from which the installation works begin;
- finish profile for the row under the roof;
- the outer corner and the inner corner cover the edges of the facing panels laid along the outer and inner corners of the building;
- J-chamfer is used for facing the top of the facade and gives it a complete appearance;
- The J-profile is an auxiliary accessory used in conjunction with the J-chamfer;
- The H-profile connects the panels in the middle of the wall, closes their edges and is used to implement all sorts of design solutions;
- molding is a cross between the finish and J-profile, and is necessary for fixing the vertical sheathing at the points of transition to spotlights;
- okolokonny profile is used for cladding window and doorways;
- the ebb becomes the drainage cornice;
- clypeus is necessary for decorative finishing of door and window openings;
- the slope is an auxiliary profile used in conjunction with the platbands;
- the fringing profile provides a cover for joints and joints between panels, and can also replace the starting profile or vertical panels.
It should be noted that all of the above fittings for siding panels can differ in width, length and configuration, and these characteristics are unique not only for the products of a separate manufacturer, but also for each line of lining material.
Installing siding panels is a fairly simple, but laborious and time-consuming task that requires not only accuracy and accuracy, but also strict adherence to the installation rules.
General rules
The technology and sequence of installation of siding panels depends on the features of the material and the surface, but there are several common points that should be borne in mind when performing work.
The process of installing siding panels consists of several stages, and they need to be performed in a certain sequence - only in this case the result will fully meet the expectations.
Step-by-step installation instructions for the siding
Installation of the siding begins with the calculation of the required amount of material. To do this, you can use special calculators on construction sites or a simple formula. The building should be divided into simple geometric figures, measure their areas and summarize the resulting figures. In addition, it is necessary to compile detailed scheme plating of the building, where you will find all the necessary profiles and accessories, as well as their location. It should be remembered that approximately 10% of the total volume of material will go to fit and trim, and if the work is done for the first time, some elements may be damaged.
After buying a siding, you can go to the main stages of the work, and the first of them is the preparation of improvised tools and materials.
Stage one. Preparation of tools and materials
Siding panels for installation and materials for the manufacture of the battens must be absolutely intact, without cracks, chips and flaws. If the work is planned to be performed in the winter, the siding should be allowed to "lie down" outdoors at a temperature of at least 15 degrees.
In addition, you will need to prepare fasteners (screws, nails, staples) that will enter the material by at least 20 mm, and a number of tools necessary for the cladding of the building.
- Electric saw. To accelerate the cutting of siding, it is best to use an electric saw (manual or stationary), and the blade should be set to reverse (when working with wood, the tool is used as usual). If mounting is carried out in a cold period, move the blade as slowly as possible.
- Scissors for cutting metal. Polyvinyl chloride and other materials from which siding panels are made (especially for PVC) are easy to process, and with the help of such a tool it is easy to give the panels the desired shape.
- Punch. Needed for drilling holes for fasteners.
- Punch. It is used for punching holes (so-called hooks) on the sides of panels when installing the siding in under the roof or under the apertures.
- Tool for dismantling the siding. It happens that when working with panels, it is necessary to dismantle one or more of them, so it's better to get a tool in advance, something like a hook.
In addition to all of the above, to perform the work should prepare a hammer, jigsaw, level, tape measure and a piece of chalk, and the eyes are better to protect with special glasses.
Stage two. Surface preparation
Qualitative preparation of the walls is a guarantee that the siding will look neat and attractive. It is best to mount the panels on top of moisture-proof material (laying waterproofing is optional, but experts recommend protecting all places where the siding will be in contact with the walls of the building and holes). Before starting work on the surface, it is necessary to dismantle the old finish, as well as all the elements that can interfere with the installation: shutters, gutters, etc., and clean the walls of the walls of dirt and dust.
Stage three. Manufacturing of a billet
Before installing the battens, you should check the reliability of all building elements: for example, replace all crumbled and broken boards. To construct the frame under the siding, dry and straight bars of the appropriate size (usually 4x6 cm) without signs of rot, stains or deformations are taken, and they must be treated with antiseptics and flame retardants (substances that prevent fire). A more reliable, but quite costly solution is a galvanized profile, which is mounted in the same way as a wooden frame.
If horizontal siding is used for facing, the carcass guides are fixed vertically, and vice versa. The distance between them should be 30-40 cm (in regions with difficult weather conditions - about 20 cm). Additional slats are installed around the door and window openings, from the bottom and from the top of the facade, as well as where additional accessories will hang (for example, lanterns).
All parts must be mounted smoothly, from time to time checking their level. Mount the elements of the battens in any way, but the best option is the usual nails. If the frame is fixed to concrete or brick, the walls should be pre-drilled with a perforator. Places where the siding will be in contact with building materials should be sealed securely to protect them from moisture and frost.
Stage four. Panel mounting
Most important stage Facing the building - installing panels on the crate. It should be carried out as accurately and accurately as possible, with the observance of the rules listed above. The algorithm for mounting the siding panels is as follows.
Step 1. Determine the point from which the installation will begin. To do this, find a point in the lower guide of the frame, move away from it 50 mm, put a mark and slightly screw the screw. Consistently move around the perimeter of the building, continuing to set marks and screw in self-tapping screws. Also they need to be screwed in the corners of the building.
Step 2. Pull the twine between the corner marks, mark the places on the rails of the crate where the angular profiles will be installed (it is with them that the installation begins). Attach the profile to the corner of the frame and place chalk along the edges of the mark with chalk, then attach it to the crate. In the same way, the other corner profiles, external and internal, are fastened, and the fastening must be started from the top hole, from top to bottom.
Step 3.After the corner elements are installed, you can proceed to mounting accessories for window and door openings: platbands, ebbs and finishing pads.
Step 4.Moving along the perimeter of the rope, make a 6-mm indent from the edge of the angular profile and attach the starting profile, and then the first launch pad. If it is properly attached, the rest of the siding will also fall as it should. Between the elements it is necessary to leave a centimeter gap in order to compensate for the possible temperature deformation of the vinyl. Do not fasten the panels too tightly - there should be a gap of at least 1 mm between the fastener cap and the surface of the material. Do not also pull the panel up, otherwise it may crack or deform.
Step 5.After fixing the accessories, the installation of the cladding panels is carried out, which is performed from the bottom at the top, starting from the starting panels. The panel is inserted into the first in the row and mounted to the frame with hardware, and they must be driven in, starting from the center and moving towards the sides. The height of the panel should be mounted on each other: the lower lock of the parent element enters the lock connection of the lower one. Panels can be assembled in sections of arbitrary height and width, depending on the design decision. If the panel closes the opening of the window or door, it is necessary to cut off the excess piece so that it comes between the casing or other accessory.
Step 6.The last top row is set only after the finish line. It is necessary to nail closely to the roof, to measure the distance between its lower part and the lock of the panel of the penultimate row. From the obtained figures take 1-2 mm for the gap. Take the whole panel, mark it so that it enters between the J-profile and the bottom panel, cut the top part together with the lock.
Step 7.On the top of the prepared panel, create so-called hooks every 20 cm - make small incisions and bend them to the front. Cut the trimmed part into the bottom panel and snap it into the lock joint lightly.
In the photo - installation of the finishing strip
Step 8. The final step is the facing of the roof gables. The work is carried out as follows: The J-profile is fastened along the gable angle (if more than one element is required, a second overlap of 2 cm is required).
Step 9.Measure the angle of the roof and cut the siding accordingly. Most likely, the last panel will have to be nailed using a fastener. This is the only case when it is allowed to drive a nail or screw the screw right through the panel.
At this installation of siding panels can be considered complete. If everything was done as it should, the result of the work will be aesthetic, reliable and durable facing.
It should be noted that vertical siding is mounted in a similar way. The only difference is that the crate for its installation should not be vertical, but horizontal.
Dismantling of damaged panels
If the panel has been damaged and a new one needs to be placed in its place, the work is done as follows.
- Insert the detachment hook between the two panels: the damaged one and the one that is higher.
- Pick up the lock and pull the tool down along the edge to release the damaged panel.
- Remove the fasteners using a nail - if they sit too tightly, you can simply slam them into the frame elements.
- Remove the panel, put a new one in its place and fix it with hardware.
- Using the same hook, bring the top panel to the lock stacked, and snap it.
Maintenance of siding panels
Care of the lining of siding panels is much easier than caring for another lining. It needs to be washed from time to time from the hose, and to remove stale spots use a soft brush or rag. In order not to damage the material, do not use abrasive household products and hard tools. In addition, do not clean the siding with chlorine bleach, organic solvents, substances that contain acetone or are used to polish furniture. Pollution from its surface is well removed with a solution of water with detergent, as well as any water-based cleaners. If you need to remove the chewing gum from the panel, you can use a solution of water and vinegar.
Siding is one of the most modern, practical and inexpensive facing materials for the facades of any buildings. In addition, as can be judged from this article, the installation of siding panels is a painstaking, but feasible task, so with certainty it can be said that finding the best solution for your own home will be very difficult.
Video - Siding installation
Siding is one of the varieties building materials for facing walls. With its help, it is possible to completely change the appearance of a private house at a small cost, if the house is still sound, but already quite old. In addition, the trim, siding with siding is used on the outside.
Piled over the heater, it not only hides it, but also improves the entire exterior of the house. It is for this reason that many home owners decide on such changes in the appearance of their home. And it will help to make all the work correctly step-by-step instruction on self-covering the house with siding.
A bit of history
This kind of plating was invented by our Pomors. Hunting required strong, light vessels. It was in shipbuilding that this type of ship lining was used. Actually, the very word siding (Siding) is translated as a word. Northern nations have adopted this technology for the warming of their homes, lining their houses. In addition to warming, this technology allowed to speed up the construction of houses on the northern coast, and was very popular with Russian pioneers.
Today, siding is made of modern building materials:
- Vinyl;
- Metal;
- Cement (fiber cement siding);
- Tree.
Different types of siding allow you to completely change the appearance of a private house without significant financial costs.
Preparing for plating
Preparatory work under the siding of the house siding is not very complicated. The entire building will need to be carefully inspected and several measurements taken. If you can see the influx of masonry mortar, they must be knocked down. Stick out the nails or drive back or clean at all. Small protrusions, more than 6 mm in height, are also better to be removed if possible.
Inspection
When inspecting the house, you should also reveal the unevenness of walls, socle, corners, window openings and other architectural elements - in general, where facing works are planned for siding. Such measurements are better done with the help of a long reference metal strip, cord and roulette. The deviation from the plane is not more than 12 mm. In local places - no more than 6 mm.
Simply put, if the whole wall is not rectangular, but a diamond-shaped one, then the diagonal difference should be no more than 12 mm. The same option, but for a window or door - 6 mm.
The general unevenness of the entire wall (pediment, cornice, socle) should not exceed 12 mm.
The building can eventually sink to one side and tilt. The slope of the wall or the whole building is checked with a plumb line. The deviation from the vertical is not more than 25 mm. If the slope of the whole building is more than permissible, then it is already in the pre-emergency condition. If it is not eliminated, then further work on siding is simply senseless.
Preparatory work
After checking the geometry of the building, it is required to conduct a complex of preparatory works. Removable platbands, plums, bars, etc. If there are cracks in the walls, near window and door openings, seal it up or with the help of mounting foam, or simply a cement slurry. If found: plastered plaster, paint peelings, areas covered with molds - such areas should be carefully cleaned. Wooden walls should be treated with any antiseptic.
Tools and materials
Before starting work on facing the house with a siding, make sure of a full set of improvised tools:
- Electric screwdriver and screwdriver;
- Hammer;
- Roulettes (with laser work easier and more convenient);
- Building level;
- Stairs.
Than to cut доборы
When facing the building part of the finishing panels is used entirely. But in some places it is necessary to do the dossiers of the same material. Depending on what material will be used for the cladding, siding is selected and a tool for cutting the panels.
For vinyl
- Electric jig saw with fine-toothed cloth;
- Bulgarian;
- Sharp knife-cutter;
- Universal;
- Hacksaw for metal;
- A shoe knife.
Metallosiding
- hacksaw for metal;
- scissors for metal;
- disc electric saw with teeth from the winner.
Advice! The use of an angle grinder (grinder) is accompanied by heating of the metal siding at the cutting site, with damage to the protective top layer.
Material
If there is a desire to do all the work on the plating yourself, in order to purchase all necessary material you can just go to a large construction store. The seller simply enough to describe in detail what area of walls, the number of windows and doors, etc., and he will calculate and select the necessary set of material for work.
And in order to control the quality of the goods, it is necessary to know what characteristics the material for the siding of the house must match with the siding:
- The same thickness throughout the panel.
- Mandatory presence of special markings on the inside of the panel. Such marking carries all the necessary information on the material: color, batch number, release date. If the material for the skin in the process of work is not enough, it can always be bought, focusing on this marking.
- On high-quality panels there is an anti-razor lock. It is made in the form of a bend on top of the panel and is located above the holes for fixing.
- A sure sign, the fact that the company take care of its image is the availability of complementary materials and accessories.
- Certificates and warranties must be submitted for all products. The minimum warranty period for coverage should be 50 years.
- Responsible sellers will necessarily attach to the purchased product instructions for installing the siding.
Edging of the battens
First, the markup is done. On the walls of the house, straight lines are drawn, so that a closed contour is obtained. To make the line horizontal, the horizontal level helps. In the corners of the house from the horizontal line, it is necessary to make measurements with a tape measure to reveal the minimum distance to the socle. When the minimum distance is set at this level, a string is drawn for the contour. On it will be mounted the starting plate.
The next stage is the installation of elements of vertical metal guides from the mounting horizon, starting from the corners. The distance between the vertical slats is 35-45 cm. Additional guides are made near the windows and doors. The main condition is that they should not intersect anywhere.
This is necessary in order to constantly circulate air under the siding, which prevents the appearance of mold.
For walls made of bricks and concrete, the guides are made of a special profile. For log walls, slats with a section of 60x40 mm, treated with antiseptic solution are used.
Waterproofing and insulation
If the installation of the roofing is done on wooden and aerated concrete walls, installation of a waterproofing is mandatory.
Warming of the walls with a miniplant is carried out at the request of the owner of the house, but a moisture-proof membrane should be installed in any case. If there is no insulation, the film is attached to the wall of the house. If there is a layer of insulation, the waterproofing layer is fastened over it. Since the clearance for ventilation between the insulation panels and siding is mandatory, a lath is built on top of the insulation layer.
Guides
Now, when there is a heater and a crate is ready, it's time to install siding accessories, such as:
- external and internal elements on the corners of the structure;
- laths on the openings of windows and doors;
- ebbs on the basement of the building and the windows.
The socle drainage is fixed at the intended level under the lower siding bar so that the upper edge runs along the line. Angle elements are fixed rigidly to the screws at the very top of the last hole. The screws that follow him are twisted in the middle of the slit in 50 cm increments.
Advice! If the profile is not enough, it can be increased by another, overlapping with the previous one with an overlap of five centimeters.
Framing the window begins with the installation of low tide. It extends beyond the window opening to 8-10 cm on both sides. On this ledge are installed lateral prikonnye bars. From below, the ebb is held by the j-profile. After installing the siding, the window decoration is completed by installing the platbands.
The process of edging the doorway is almost the same as the window.
Installing Panels
The process of installing siding panels in something similar to the LEGO designer. Each element is connected to the other in turn. The first row from below is attached to the first (starting) lath by slight pressing until a click from the bottom appears. From above through the slots, attach the screws in the center, so that the siding moves in them without visible efforts. Mounting is from the center to the edges of the building, a step of 40 cm.
All subsequent panels are attached in the same way, rising from the foundation to the roof. The topmost row ends with the finish line.
Basic installation rules
- It is necessary to avoid rigid fixing of siding panels. It should be remembered that the material itself has the property of shrinking in the cold and expanding in the summer. Therefore, the screw is screwed into the center of the hole so that there is a gap of 1 mm between the screw cap and the plate.
- Observe a clearance of 10 mm between the slats and the guides. This will protect the siding from damage when expanding in hot weather.
- Facing the house with siding can be made in any weather, but it should be taken into account that the frost makes the material fragile and therefore requires more careful handling during installation.