In the construction of a private house one of the critical stages along with the installation of the foundation is considered the construction of the roofing system. The most common option due to its simplicity and reliability is the installation.
Recently, roofs of different configurations appear, but the gable roof remains a common and generally recognized roofing structure. Advantages and advantages of such a system:
- Economical - do not require large expenditures on building materials.
- It goes well with any structure.
- Due to the correct slope of the skates, precipitation is not collected on it and precipitation is easy.
- Not enough work installation work of this construction.
- Such a roof can be made original and unusual.
- You can deal with work on your own without involving specialists.
What do you need to know and do before designing in the first place? It is necessary to know how to calculate the slope of skates. Let's look at how the slope of an existing roof is calculated, then you will understand how to use it:
If the width of the house, for example, 8 m, and the length of the rafter's foot on the roof is - 10 m:
- A is the angle of inclination;
- c - half the width of the house;
- b - length of rafter.
It is clear that half the width of the house will be 4 meters - with = 8 ÷ 2 = 4. Now we need to calculate the radial measure of the angle - cos A = 4 ÷ 10 = 0.4. To finish and translate the value to degrees, you need the Bradys table (use the Internet), but in this example the slope is 66 °.
The form is selected depending on the size of the house, only after making all the basic calculations, you can start creating drawings and sketches. In construction gable roof with their own hands all technology is worked out in stages to small nuances. When using any roofing material, the whole sequence of operations remains unchanged.
In the framework of this article, we will describe how to build a double-skinned roof in step-by-step instructions. But first, let us become acquainted with what types of gable roof configurations exist, and what rafter systems are used.
Symmetrical roofing
The most common version of the roofing system due to its simplicity and reliability is quite suitable for construction gable roof with their own hands. Because of the symmetry, a fairly uniform distribution of loads on the main load-bearing walls and the Mauerlat is achieved.
The larger the cross-section of the beam, the greater the load-bearing capacity of the structure. As with the installation of all types of gable roofs, great importance in the design of symmetrical roofing has a slope. It is recommended - in regions with a windy belt and high humidity to arrange a slope of 60 degrees.
A symmetrical roof has a drawback. As is known, the construction is a triangle shape and "blind zones" are formed in the acute corners of the roof, which excludes the construction of a full-height attic floor.
Asymmetric roofing
The design is basically the same symmetrical, but differs in the location of the ridge, so that the sides of the asymmetric roof differ in slope and size. The installation work is quite difficult, mainly because of the skated skate. But such a roof, despite the complexity of the installation, is eventually compensated by the original and beautiful appearance.
Advantages and disadvantages of an asymmetrical gable roof
Undoubtedly, there is an opportunity to significantly increase the living space. But at the same time, the load will be uneven, and requires a thorough preliminary calculation.
Broken construction
It is, in contrast to the usual gable construction, the shape of a pentagon. In the shape of a triangle, it has an upper part, and the main one, conditionally resembling a trapezoid, is located below. Thus, it is divided into two parts, on the lateral lower slopes there is usually no snow, which can not be said about the upper part of the structure.
Advantages of a broken roof construction:
- You can build on any sufficiently strong building.
- By means of the attached storey the additional area is increased.
- Attractive appearance of the building.
- It is possible to build a two-level attic.
- Reducing heat costs, at the expense of the roof, and reducing the cost of heating in the winter.
- You can work without leaving home, and not attracting professionals and special equipment.
Types of rafters
In fact, in principle, there are only two systems: hanging and nylon rafters. They differ among themselves in the use of bases for rafters. But there is also a hybrid option, which includes both rafter systems - this method is especially acceptable when the house is divided by columns, instead of load-bearing walls.
Firstly, they are installed in case the lateral support walls are separated from each other up to 8 meters, and secondly, there must not be a bearing wall between the supports, otherwise a layer system should be erected. In fact, this is the simplest method of installation: the farms are assembled at the bottom, resulting in a hard triangle that can withstand the loads. To ensure that the structure is solid, tightening is applied between the rafters.
In this system, it is considered a positive moment that you can do without the Mauerlat, but for the construction of the attic room it is recommended to use not only the Mauerlat, but also the beams of the ceiling. Therefore, experts do not advise the use of this type of rafter system for the construction of the attic.
This structure is usually exactly in the middle set up a vertical stand. The support of the upper edge of the rafters can be the same opposite rafter (spacer) or run (uncontested). Thus, they are divided into discontinuous and irradiated systems of the nylon type.
There are several ways of this type of device, see the diagram. In the first case, the support for the rafters is Mauerlat. The load (bending) is subject to rafter legs, thereby not crushing or breaking the walls.
Layered or hanging - which is more profitable?
In the device of a nylon construction for construction, the rafters - beam comes with a small section, because under it has additional supports.
In the device of the hanging construction, on the contrary, the cross-section of the rafters is larger than in the layered version. Even the cross-section of puffs, experts recommend making similar cross-section rafters. If you do not even install the Mauerlatt, all the same, the economic losses will be greater in the hanging mode.
Drawings and sketches
The difference in the device systems:
Design calculations
To erect gable roof with own hands, it is necessary to calculate the mass of the structure, right angle, the area and even the amount of required material, and this is quite a difficult task. The following important points are taken into account when performing the calculations:
- width and length of the base;
- height of the ridge;
- length of front, rear and side overhangs;
- step rafters, grade wood rafters;
- the kind of material that you want to use for coating;
- thickness of the boards;
- the distance between the boards in the crate;
- type of terrain - region.
It would be possible to turn to the help of specialists, as usually they do - they go to a nearby construction site and find a superintendent, since reliability depends on the correct calculation performed, and therefore the safety of your design. But not everything is complicated. For this, there are online payment services on the Internet.
In our case, the most convenient and reasonable option is the choice of the online calculation service for gable roofs, where only the specified parameters will be left.
Online calculation is instantaneous, but the most important thing is that you will be able to calculate the load, the number of crates, and also required amount material, for example, slate, tile, profile in your area. All calculations for such services are made taking into account SNiP - "Loads and Impacts".
The structures of the described roofs
Asymmetric roof
Installation of a gable roof system with own hands - step by step instruction
- Check the diagonality and the plane of the surface. Disadvantage to eliminate. Some elements, including the Mauerlat, the Leg, the Run, must be strictly horizontal, but you do not need to place them in the same plane.
- Wooden elements need to be treated with an antiseptic.
- Before laying the mauerlat, it is necessary to put a waterproofing, also observing a clear diagonal.
- Mauerlatt is the foundation of the roof and when installing the frame, In addition to fixing by means of skew logs, it is duplicated by brackets and bolts.
- Set the left to the waterproofing. Secure with bolts. Mark the place for the support posts that will hold the run.
- As the horizontality is observed, the racks are prepared in the same size, fastened, the run is installed from the top. We fasten the run, with the help of special metal plates.
- Mark the places where the rafter feet are fastened. Experienced roofers, without complicating the process, use a rod, the length of which is equal to the distance between the rafters.
- Rafters are attached to the Mauerlat, but only after the top to each other or to the run.
- Check the construction simple way, using a rope, pulling, on the one hand, and adjust, if necessary, the position of the rafters.
If you follow this instruction, then you will easily cope with the construction gable roof with their own hands. After the work done, proceed to the crate. The installation of the battens is not a difficult process, but do not forget that the further laying of the roofing material depends on this.
Choose a quality material, for example, raw lumber is deformed after drying, and, therefore, do not fit. Also choose lumber without knots, such material can not withstand the load.
Pay attention, if you are building a crate for slate, then each sheet should have a support of not less than three bars. In this case, even bars should be thicker by 30 mm. This achieves uniformity of load and a dense overlap. Such an important nuance with this fragile building material is worth knowing. Good luck in job!
When building an individual house, one of the most important steps is the installation of a roofing system, so many are wondering: how to make a gable roof with your own hands?
Despite the fact that in the last decades roofs of a different configuration appeared, the gable roof remains the most common construction.
The technology of installation, fixing and covering of the roofing structure has been worked out step by step.
When using metal, slate, proflist, ondulin and other materials, the technology and the sequence of operations remains the same as before.
Before you start the construction of a house, dacha or a bath with your own hands, you need to step-by-step develop the drawings of all the nodes of the building.
The design and shape of the roof is chosen depending on the size of the building. In this case, the load that the gable roof will experience during operation is taken into account.
The smaller the angle of inclination, the less it is affected by rain, snow and wind. At the same time, it should be remembered that the angle of inclination of less than 40 degrees limits the rational use of the attic.
To equip the attic in this case will allow only the broken form of a gable roof. When the width of the house exceeds 6 meters, the rafters are reinforced with purlins.
The video shows where the runs and racks are installed.
When arranging the roof for a bath, two-slope roofs with a slope of 45 to 50 degrees are most often used.
Expecting the need for materials, it is necessary to remember that the weight of the structure from the profiled sheet should be minimal and not create additional stress on the walls and foundation.
Strength of timber, boards and other lumber is determined not only by the value of the cross section, but also by the texture of the wood.
The pedestal can be sewed with a lining if in the attic only old magazines and things that it is a pity to throw away are kept.
To determine the need for roofing material, you need to determine the roof area.
Calculation of the roof area from corrugated board or other materials is considered one of the main stages of design. All measurements must be performed correctly and with acceptable accuracy.
Even a small mistake can lead to unplanned costs for additional purchase of materials.
When the construction of a house, a garage or a bath is done by one's own hands, every kopek, as they say, is on the account.
When the total area of the gable roof is determined, it is sufficient to calculate the area of one ramp and multiply by two.
Such trifles as the holes for the chimney or the attic window can be ignored.
Design Features
When designing a gable roof and designing drawings, it is assumed that it will be based on two walls. The shape of the roof is developed in accordance with the design of the house as a whole.
When building a bathhouse, cottage or other light structure, it is more convenient to use hanging rafters. When a large house is being built, the rafters of the layer are more often used.
In this case, the rafter system has a more complex configuration. The photo shows both versions of the rafter system.
When installing the roof with your own hands, you must strictly follow the sequence of operations when installing rafters. Without helpers in this case can not do.
The construction of a gable roof for a house includes the following units and elements:
- mauerlat;
- rafter system;
- skates and struts;
- crate;
- warming;
- roofing material.
In the case where it is decided to equip the attic under the roof, the broken configuration is more often used. The attic is bounded by two slopes and two pediments.
The design of the attic space requires additional costs. At the same time, the construction of a house with a dwelling in the attic increases the level of comfort and its market price.
Mounting the Mauerlat
The beam, which fits around the perimeter of the house at the top of the walls, is called Mauerlat. The top harness takes over all the load from the roofing system and distributes it to the walls and foundation.
As a mauerlat, a bar is taken, the cross section of which is determined by the width of the wall. Before installation, it must be impregnated with a special solution to protect against fire and rot.
Mounting the Mauerlat is done in such a way that its outer edge is flush with the plane of the wall.
The video shows how the bar is attached to the wall using studs. Install the Mauerlat properly and reliably, as it serves as the foundation for the roofing gable system.
Mounting Mauerlate can be done in many ways. If the walls are built of bricks, then at the stage of construction, wire - wire rod is embedded in the masonry.
Through the bore through holes are drilled, through which this wire is passed. The next step is to tighten the wire securely.
Instead of a wire, you can fix metal studs with a diameter of 10 mm. The beam is put on the studs and fixed with nuts with wide washers.
In both the first and second versions, the fastening can be done by hand. In some cases, a gable is attached to the mauerlat with its lower part.
Installation of floor beams
In order to perform the installation of the floor for the house, a bar with a section of 200x100 mm is used. For a bath or a cottage, the cross-section is selected depending on the size of the building.
At first, the two outer beams are fastened, spaced along the length of the structure. The next step is to identify the points for fixing the remaining beams of the overlap.
With their hands, using a cord and a tape measure, the distance between the outer beams is broken into lengths of 60 cm. With this step, rafters will be installed on the joists.
The video shows this process. All beams are fastened to the Mauerlat with nails by 200 mm. After this, it is advisable to lay the temporary flooring on the beams from the profiled sheet or planks.
Mounting can be done with metal corners and screws. When installing beams, it is necessary to maintain the amount of removal from the walls. The size of the drift determines the width of the cornice.
Practice shows that there will be enough 50-60 cm. At this stage it is necessary to provide that from the ends of the roof the pediment will be sewn up. For a bath or a garden house you can make it in a simplified form.
If the house has a broken line, then the pediment has a considerable area. And we must provide for the possibility of equipping the gable overhang and low tide.
Beams laid on the walls must be leveled before the fastening in the horizontal plane.
Fastening of rafter system
The construction of the rafter system requires the use of identical elements. After the joists are laid and fixed, the ridge beam is assembled.
For this purpose, 100x50 mm racks are installed along the central line of the house. The height of these posts should be equal to the height of the walls from the floor to the upper plane of the Mauerlat. Racks are fastened with spacers.
As a ridge beam you can take a board section 150h50 mm. The next step is the installation of rafters. First you need to make a template.
When construction is carried out by oneself, it is necessary to control the quality of the operation after each stage.
It's very easy to make a template by yourself. The rafter board is applied at one end to the beam, and the other to the ridge beam.
From both ends the control lines are cut off and excess pieces are cut through them. The template is ready and you can prepare the necessary rafters for the house or bath.
Installation is carried out in a certain order. Having installed one rafter, immediately it is necessary to strengthen the opposite.
Fastening to the ridge beam is done by nails, and to the beam of the ceiling it is possible to fasten with a bracket or metal corners and screws. The video shows how this is done.
Regardless of whether the broken roof or the usual shape, vertical racks and horizontal crossbars are installed under the rafters.
Fronting of the gable
After the installation of the rafter has been completed, the gable is sewn up. To build a house, and not to design a gable is unacceptable. In recent years, the gable is made of corrugated board.
This is a high-quality solution, although in the case of decoration of the facade in this case there can be certain difficulties.
In order to install the gable, it is necessary to perform the installation of the frame.
In this case, a window opening is mandatory. The window in the attic room is necessary for ventilation. Most often, the gable is lined with floor rails or lining.
At the final decoration of the facade, the gable is decorated in many ways. The video shows how you can decorate a house with a gable roof.
Making the eaves
The rational arrangement of a gable roof assumes the presence of a cornice along the entire perimeter of the structure. Practice shows that for a bath you have to sew the cornice with your own hands.
Cornice is designed to divert rainwater from getting under the foundation.
If the structure is equipped with a spillway system made of metal, the brackets for fastening the tin should be installed and fixed at this stage.
The tug system of plastic is attached directly to the cornice. Sew the cornice from below with siding or sheets of corrugated board. The photo shows a drainpipe installed on the corner of the house.
Curb and insulation
First of all, you need to fix on the roof a strip of waterproofing film in the lower part of the ramp. To the rafters it is attached with a construction stapler.
After this, the rails of the counter-board are beaten on the rafters. If the roofing device assumes insulation, then the thermal insulating material is laid on the film.
The video shows the sequence of works when installing a roofing cake. When building a bath, the roof insulation is not applied.
The cladding in this case is performed based on a specific roofing material. To fix the profiled she is the same as when using slate.
The use of corrugated board increases the cost of construction, but gives it greater strength.
The design and construction of the crate are of two types. The first type is designed for hard roofing material such as metal, slate or profiled sheet.
The second type of crate is done under. In particular, a roofing material is used for the bath.
Specific forms of the roofing and the type of roofing material is selected at the design stage. Building a modern house with a gable roof can only be done by taking into account many nuances and details.
First of all, this concerns the arrangement of the roof. It is not necessary to save on the quality of roofing materials. However, unnecessary costs should be avoided.
Installation of roofing material
In recent years, the market building materials there were many new products. This trend has touched and gable roof.
In place of the usual and proven time slate came ondulin and metal. The roof of the profiled sheet will serve for a long time and reliably, provided it is properly installed.
In order to fulfill roofing with their own hands, you need to know the technology and the sequence of actions.
Starting with how to cut the metal, and ensure the rise of the corrugated board to the place of attachment. Acquiring roofing material, you must always take the instruction according to the rules of its installation.
General rules
In order to build a good home for life, it is not necessary to purchase an original project.
It is much more effective to get acquainted in detail with the construction of houses that have already been built in the district. The buildings with domes and spiers look attractive.
At the same time, the usual double-sloped roofs differ in the harmony of form and style. Their main advantage lies in reliability and functionality.
And one more advantage, which should be noted - such a roof can be built with your own hands with minimal costs.
In order to build a gable roof with your own hands for a utility room, a garage or even a house, in addition to desire, you need the ability to use a carpentry tool. Of course, it is not easy to perform such work, especially for the first time. It is best to have several assistants, as well as to study the features and technological methods of the structure. In this article, we will tell you how to make a gable roof by yourself, what it can be, how to make its elements and how to fix them, and also consider other nuances that must be taken into account.
How to start the construction of a gable roof
First of all, it should be noted that although the gable roof is a fairly simple construction, but its construction requires the availability of certain knowledge, the appropriate tools and the ability to use it. And therefore, in order for this work to be successful, it is necessary:
- Correctly choose its type or the way of building such a roof;
- determine the angle of its inclination;
- calculate and prepare the necessary amount of materials that will be required for all its elements.
There are several ways of building gable roof and before you start building it with your own hands, you need to choose exactly the kind of it that will be:
- ensure maximum strength and reliability of the entire structure;
- take into account the requirements for attic space, from the point of view of its subsequent operation;
- take into account the structural features of the building.
Selecting the angle of inclination
As for the angle of inclination, the larger it is, the higher the roof, and will provide better protection against atmospheric precipitation, as well as a smaller vertical component of the load from the weight of the roofing material and the same atmospheric precipitation (especially snow) acting on the rafters. But on the other hand, a higher roof is more expensive and requires a higher consumption of materials, both wood and roofing material, and also has a greater "sail". In addition, when choosing the angle of inclination, it is necessary to take into account the features of the selected roofing material. So the recommended angle of inclination for a roof from a corrugated board, a bitumen shingle and rolled materials - not less than 20 °, and for metal, ondulin and asbestos cement sheets (slate) - not less than 25 °. How to calculate the angle of the roof, depending on its height or the length of the rafters, at a certain angle, you can see in the section "question answer".
In order to correctly choose the optimal type of gable roof for your house, garage, bath or utility room, we will consider what the ways of its construction exist, what they differ, what are their advantages and disadvantages.
The construction, types and methods of construction of a gable roof
Any gable roof consists of such basic elements:
- horizontal base, to which the main supporting elements are attached - rafters (rafter legs). This can be either Mauerlates (a bar laid along bearing walls) or existing wooden joists can be used;
- the rafters themselves or the rafters;
- crate, which is attached to the rafters and serves as the basis for fixing the roofing material;
- roof.
In addition, the roof may include additional elements, such as:
- racks, stops, braces - providing, if necessary, additional strength of the structure;
- waterproofing, which can be in the form of a roll material, film or membrane;
- heater;
- controllabel - bar, which nails along the rafters and with which the waterproofing is fixed;
- windshields and abutment strips;
- skating elements;
- drainage system;
- elements for finishing eaves.
As already noted, the main load-bearing elements of any roof are rafters or rafter feet. They perceive the load from the entire structure of the roof, including the weight of the roofing material, as well as the weight of precipitation (especially snow), wind load and transfer it to the bearing walls of the building. Depending on their type, there are two main types of gable roofs:
- with layered rafters, which are supported at the bottom and at the top by supporting structures (walls or horizontal run);
- with suspended rafters, which in the upper part lean against each other and join together, thus forming a truss farm.
It is easier to make a gable roof with stacked rafters with your own hands. But for this purpose, in the construction of the premise over which the roof is to be built, there must be a supporting wall or columns in the middle, on which one can be supported by a "bench" with a ridge horizontal run, and the attic room itself is thus divided by support posts or a wall.
It is more difficult to make a roof with hanging rafters, especially when there is no experience. But you can do this work yourself, having got acquainted with the necessary theoretical information, having made the correct calculations, carefully making all the nodes of the rafter legs (trusses) and performing the correct fixing. Hanging rafters allow you to arrange a roof over a room in which there is no supporting wall in the middle, and the attic room itself becomes free from the "bench", which is especially important if you want to build an attic there, are special for small dimensions of the building.
In addition, the construction of gable roofs, both with layered and hanging rafters, can differ in the way they join and fix their elements, the type of materials used (board, bar), its cross-section and the pitch of the arrangement.
Necessary materials and tools
The necessary amount of materials, their appearance and cross-section depends, both on the size of the building, the width of the span to be covered, and on the type of the future roof, its height (angle of inclination), step of rafters and crates and other factors.
For example, to find out the number of beams for the Mauerlat, you need to measure the perimeter of the building, while making a stock at the junction and waste sites. In principle, the longer the beams for the Mauerlate are, the better: there will be fewer joints and it is easier to set it horizontally along the entire length.
The amount of material for the rafter is determined by the width of the span, the angle of inclination and the pitch with which they will be installed.
The number of boards or planks for the crate can be calculated taking into account the step of its installation (and this depends on the chosen roofing material) and the length of the roof across the ramp, taking into account the side overhangs above the gables (at least 20 cm).
In addition, depending on the chosen type of roof and its dimensions, you will need boards for puffs, braces, lining, "fillets", binder, and also - bar for girders, racks, stops.
In order to make it easier to calculate the total number of materials, it is necessary to compile a simple drawing-diagram of the future roof, with and the image of all its elements and indicating their type and size (length, section).
The cross-section of the main elements of the gable roof can be chosen based on the recommendations given in Tables 1 and 2.
Table 1 Recommendations for the selection of the cross-section of rafters from timber and logs, depending on its length and pitch (the distance between adjacent rafters)
The length of the rafter- |
Step, cm: 100 |
|||
|
th leg, m |
Bar, mm / log |
Bar, mm / log |
Bar, mm / log |
Bar, mm / log |
|
More than 6,0 |
Table 2. Other roof elements
The necessary tools that you may need when building a roof yourself:
- Ax;
- Hammer with a naildriver;
- Hacksaw;
- Benzo or electric saw;
- Roulette;
- Metal ruler and square;
- Building level;
- Plumb bob;
- A manual or electric drill.
In addition to wood and tools, materials will also be needed to connect and fasten the wooden roof elements: nails, staples, anchors, screws, connecting metal plates and corners. Their appearance and quantity will also depend on the size of the roof, its type, the ways of fixing its elements to each other, and the method of fixing and the type of roofing material.
The order of work in the construction of a gable roof
The procedure for the construction of different types of gable roof may differ slightly, depending on the type of rafters chosen, the way they are fastened and the type of foundation to which they will be attached. Therefore, consider several possible options.
As we have already said, the roof with rafters is characterized by the fact that these supporting elements in the upper part are supported by a horizontal ridge run. The latter can be laid on vertical wooden racks, on a brick or stone support wall or lean against pre-built pediments.
Most often, when constructing such a roof, the first option is used. In this case, in the middle of the passage, a so-called "bench" is built of vertical racks, braces and a horizontal ridge span. In this vertical stand can be supported either directly on wooden beams overlapping, or on the lower horizontal run, specially laid for this. In the second case, the step of the racks will not depend on the pitch of the joists. In addition, this method can be used if the overlap is not wooden, but reinforced concrete. The construction of the support wall for laying the ridge run is used much less often and only if it is provided for by the structure of the building.
Fig. 1 Roof rafters resting on the Mauerlat and the ridge run of the "bench": MZP - connecting metal toothed plate.
In the construction of small buildings (baths, garages, farm blocks), a third option is possible, when prefabricated logs, logs or bricks are constructed with gables and they are laid with a ridge run without additional intermediate supports. In this case, the pediments will perform the role of supporting walls and therefore should have the appropriate thickness and strength. This applies to the ridge run. It should be strong enough and installed "on the edge".
Fig. 2 Roof rafters resting on a ridge run without intermediate supports.
The methods of fastening the rafters to the ridge run and to each other can be very different (Fig. 3). The main thing is to ensure connection reliability. For this, bolts, nails or MZP (special connecting plates with teeth) can be used. The docking of the rafters can be carried out both as a butt and as an overlap or as an undercut.
Fig. 3 Options for the solution of the upper assembly of the fastening rafters
At the bottom, the rafter legs rest and fasten either to the Mauerlat or to the wooden beams of the ceiling.
When the support of the rafters is Mauerlat
In this case, the first thing you need to do is lay along the perimeter of the building, on top of the outer walls (on the layer of waterproofing) and fix there the Mauerlat (the bar whose upper plane should lie in one horizontal plane). To the stone or concrete base, the Mauerlat is fastened either with the help of pegs laid down earlier in the axis or with the help of anchors, drilling corresponding holes for them. It is also possible that the Mauerlat is fastened with nails to the wooden beams of the floor. In small wooden houses Instead of the Mauerlat, you can use the top crown of the log house or the house of the bar, and in the frame - the bar of the upper strapping.
Fig. 4 Some options for attaching the wall to the wall: a - with the help of anchors; b - with nails to the beams of the ceiling; at - with the help of hairpins, laid down when concreting armopoyasa.
After laying the Mauerlat, we construct a "bench", the upper run of which must also be strictly horizontal and parallel to the Mauerlat. Initially, from the two sides of the overlap, we measure the distance between the axes of the opposite Mauerlates, divide it in half and set it aside in the middle of the span and make marks. Connecting them, we mark the line of position of the axis of the "bench". On it will be laid down the lower run. If the stands of the "bench" are attached directly to the joists, this will be the line on which should be located in the middle of their support. It is most convenient to make a "bench" with the bottom run entirely in a horizontal position, then lift and fix vertically along the axis to the overlap and additionally with temporary braces.
We check the verticality of the pillars and the distance diagonally from the edges of the Mauerlates to the edges of the ridge run. If they are the same, then everything is in order. If not, adjust the position of the "bench".
Fig. 5 "Bench" for layered rafters
The next step will be the fabrication, installation and fixing of the rafter feet. Before you start this work, it's best to make a pattern of a rafter's leg from a board of 25-30 mm, fit it in place and "drive" across the roof slope, checking to see if there are any deviations in size. If such are found, they must be eliminated (if possible) or taken into account when making rafters. In the future, rafter legs are manufactured and their installation is started. First, the outer rafters are mounted and fastened, and when installing the rest, it is controlled that they are in the same plane of the ramp, pulling the cord between the outer rafters. If the building is of the correct form, the Mauerlat and the ridge run are laid horizontally and in parallel, then no problems should arise. The step of the rafters can be different, depending on the cross-section of the material used for the rafters.
After laying and fitting the rafters are attached to the Mauerlat and the ridge run with the help of nails, staples or metal corners.
Fig. 6th Some of the options for attaching the rafter to the Mauerlatta with a boss (thrust bar) or a notch: a - with the help of a metal corner; b - with the help of nails; at - Bracket.
For the formation of the overhang, most often, "rakes" are nailed by "mare" of the required length from the boards of 40-50 mm. It is also possible to create eaves with the release of the lower part of the rafter. But in this case they should have a margin of length.
When rafters are supported by joists
Sometimes, the rafter's feet at the bottom are attached to wooden beams. In this case, the beams are most often released outside, outside the wall, thus forming a overhang. Often this method of attachment is used to increase the attic of small buildings. In this case, the step of the rafters will correspond to the step of laying the joists. In addition, the beams must necessarily be laid along the front (front) walls.
Fig. 7th Variants of fastening of rafters to a wooden beam: 1 - rafter leg; 2 - beam; 3 - nail; 4 - the bracket; 5 - tooth.
Rims
The rim is arranged from a board 30-40 mm thick or a bar, section 40-50x50-60 mm. The cage should protrude beyond the rafters and form a lateral overhang so that it is at least 20 cm, taking into account the thickness of the pediment. Fastening of the crate starts from the bottom. The fixing step depends on the selected roofing material. For some roofing materials, for example roll or bituminous shingles, the lath is made in the form of a continuous rolling.
If the roof is waterproofed, the waterproofing material is fastened directly to the rafters, across the ramp, with a slight sagging, overlapping 10-15 cm and pre-fastened with a stapler. Above, the hydrobarrier is fastened with a control bar - bars, which are nailed along the rafters. And already on the grating, the crate for the roof is nailed.
After the crate is attached, along its edges, a cord is stretched along the slopes, along which it is checked how even the side overhang is. If necessary, trim the exposed boards or bars.
After that, the installation of the roof, windboards (laths) and filing overhangs is performed.
How to build a roof with hanging rafters
Making the roof with hanging rafters with your own hands is somewhat more difficult, because in this case the rafter legs of the opposite rajids at the top serve as a support for each other and no longer have any support. In order for such a structure to be rigid and sufficiently stable, they must be reliably connected together by tightening (most often, a board with a section of 40-50x200-250 mm). Thus, the so-called rafter trusses are formed. They are made according to the template below and are supplied ready for overlapping, or they are made on the overlap of individual elements prepared according to the template. The second option is possible if there is enough space on the floor to do this.
Fig. 8 Hanging rafters fixed on the Mauerlate.
Particularly important is the tightening, if the support of the rafters are Mauerlats, laid on the wall. It prevents the occurrence of tilt (tipping) loads on the walls. In the event that the rafters are attached to the floor joists, the main part of the load is perceived by them. Although in this case, the tightening at the top of the truss is necessary, to ensure its rigidity.
Before starting the manufacture of trusses, make it a template from a board of 25 mm and check all their future seats. If the building is the right shape, then the template will be equally approachable in any place. If the walls of the building are not parallel (for example, one of the end walls will be wider due to an improper breakdown), then the template will reveal this and when making the farms it will be necessary to make corrections.
Between themselves, the rafter legs can be joined in various ways: lapped, butt-end with a wooden or metal overlay (connecting plate), half a tree, etc.
Fig. 9 Some variants of fastening of hanging rafters (the top unit): a - buttock with a wooden lining; b - butt and metal plate; at - vpolderov and a metal bolt; d - lapped with nails or bolts.
The finished truss farm rises, is exposed on a plumb and fastened to the base (mauerlatu or a wooden beam of overlapping), and also additional bracing (permanent or temporary). The first farms are established and fixed. After that, between them it is necessary to pull a cord or a fishing line, focusing on which the others are mounted. If the base of the regular shape is in the horizontal plane, and the trusses are the same (made according to one pattern), then there will be enough cord stretched on one side at the bottom. If you do this work for the first time and in order to be sure of the correct installation, after fixing the next farm, it is better to check its position with a cord or line and on the other hand, both below and at the level of its growth. Before fixing the next farm with temporary braces, it is necessary to check its verticality. The bracing is installed so that they do not interfere with the installation of the battens.
Fig. 10 Fastening of suspended rafters on a wooden beam of overlapping.
After all the farms are secured, you can start installing waterproofing and roofing.
When the length of the ramp is long
If the length of the ramp and, correspondingly, of the rafter's leg is more than 4.5 m, additional vertical supports or slots for each rafter should be installed to strengthen the roof structure (see video). At the bottom they can be supported by joists or a horizontal run. You can also arrange support "benches" from vertical racks and horizontal girders, which will be based on rafters or bolts, which act as puffs (as in Fig. 11).
Fig.11 The version of the gable roof system with a long rafters (more than 4.5 m)
How to build a gable roof with your own hands - video:
The simplest type of construction has. She exemplary protects against precipitation and wind, and, thanks to the geometric form, not bad holds the house warm. But such useful properties can be obtained only if everything is done accurately and accurately. Let's figure out how you can, so you do not have to regret after making a choice. The process may seem complicated and confusing for the beginner, so that it's easier to figure it all out, first it's better to ask for help from friends. At the same time creating a roof is an entertaining and extraordinary thing, and pride from the final result is worth a lot.
Any architectural construction begins with a drawing - theory. You should take a closer look at the ready solutions in the district, because the local houses are built taking into account the local climate, the number of precipitations that fall during the year. However, do not confuse our type with spiers and towers. The latter are too complicated to install and require a slightly different approach. In addition, their goal is design refinement. Our - functionality and practicality. Here are the main points on which to focus attention, in order to.
- The angle of inclination should not exceed strongly 55 degrees and be less than 20. In the first case, we get a bad moisture resistance, and in the second - a costly construction without an attic. It is important to note that the optimal angle of inclination when using roll materials, bituminous tiles and corrugated board is more than 20 degrees, and if there are metal tile, ondulin or slate, then 25 degrees is the minimum.
- The type of gable roof and the name of its elements. The edges of the upper corner are the rafters; The tightening is the base of our triangle, which rests directly on the walls of the house; bolt - reinforcement between the rafters - are in the upper third of the triangle to make room for the attic; Mauerlaty - wooden beams, which are located on the top of the wall along the entire perimeter and create a support for attaching the rafters; the ridge - "lining" under the upper corner in the form of a bar, creates an additional emphasis for rafters. Here is the basic composition of a simple roof for a house without a roof. More complex options can exclude the tightening and have beams overlapping, the central pillars with struts, vertical racks with the levers providing additional support, etc. Mostly, they are distinguished by the layered ones (those that rest only on the Mauerlates, without puffs) and the hanging ones (the emphasis is on the joists and tightening).
- The dimensions are chosen according to the slope angle, the elements used and the weather conditions in the area. Recommendations: square section of the beams of the Mauerlat - from 100x100 mm to 150x150, boards of rafter legs - from 50x100 to 100x150 (directly proportional to the length), the step between the rafters - from 6 to 12 cm, the puffs - 50x150, all other types of bars have a section of 100x100.
drawing of a gable roof: the diagram shows the main elements
Stage 2-nd. Mounting of Mauerlate or Floor Beams
So we came to the question of how to make a gable roof with our own hands.
In wooden houses, the Mauerlat replaces the bars of the last row. The bars are impregnated with special solutions to protect them from rotting and ignition, they are attached to the wall by means of pins. Under the uneven bars waterproofing is laid (for example, roofing material). For greater reliability, sometimes the bars along the perimeter are built into the walls: they are lined with bricks on three sides and fixed with bolts. When the bars are installed and do not have blemishes, marks are made for the rafters.
In the suspension type, cross beams are used, which are fixed to the wall by bolts and studs. The beams themselves protrude beyond the walls, as the rafters will be fastened directly to the ends of the beams. Beams overlap also pre-treated with antiseptics.
Stage 3-rd. Installation of rafters and ridge
In order to understand how to make a rafter system, you need to find out what it is for. Rafters - the support of the entire gable roof. It is they who take on the mechanical effect of the weather. Therefore, it is important to make sure there are no mistakes.
In the layering types: cut out the notches according to the marks for the installation of rafters. After that, we construct a "bench" - a temporarily reinforced support system from a log, several racks, a skate with oblique passes between the ridge and the ice. This construction should be strengthened by temporary braces, which are attached to the Mauerlat. Next, use the ridge run and the notches in the Mauerlate to install the rafters. First, the last on the ground between each other by butt, overlap or by means of grooves on both boards. We raise ready-made connections and fix them on the bench and mauerlat with bolts, steel linings, nails or staples. At the end, the overhang is formed, attaching additional boards of the appropriate size to the ends of the rafters by overlays.
To the beams of the roofing, the rafters are joined by bolts and staples: it is better not to cut the grooves here, because this will not only make the structure longer, but become more fragile. The rafters are also connected to each other on the ground, only with exceptionally large overlays, and then they are raised and fixed on the transverse beams. The rafters rest on each other. There is no other support, therefore, the lining is used. In order to strengthen the design, install additional racks.
Stage 4-th. Waterproofing, insulation and planking
The made frame is covered with waterproofing material, we attach it to the rafters with a stapler. The waterproofing has two layers: under the rafters and above them. Between the layers there must be a heater. Here we use building scotch to fasten the strips. If you do not do these simple operations, the gable roof will lose a number of its properties, quickly begin to leak and let in heat.
Over this soft structure across the rafters we fix the facing boards and flat beams. It is important to leave a small ventilation gap between the film and the lining. This can be achieved by nailing small racks to the rafters hidden under the waterproofing. In the end, we ourselves got a wire mesh for the final stages of creating our roof.
Stage 5-th. Roof installation
There are many materials for the roof, but here it is important to know which one is most suitable for the made frame. Or, from the outset, create a truss system and cladding according to one or another material. In fact, the wrong choice can not be made, because each material is designed to solve specific problems. Allocate:
- profiled sheeting;
- shingles: bitumen, ceramic, composite, metal, etc.;
- ruberoid;
- ondulin.
As a rule, each material has its own approach, and it is important to understand the instructions that are attached to them.
Stage 6th. Fronts, cornices, drainage systems
How correctly to make a pediment depends on their nature and the need for them. For example, in wooden houses, the pediments need only be painted to the general color of the house. And in more expensive buildings you can use to decorate mica or paint with rocks. This is absolutely a design solution.
Cornices and gutters are used to divert water from the base of the walls of the house. Therefore, the main rule here is one thing - these structures should be fixed close to the outer layer of waterproofing, so that the water that fell under the roof did not stay under it and did not cause the foundation of the house to flood.
Outcomes
The gable roof is considered to be easy to install, and it is really possible to make your house protected from inclement weather if you follow all the algorithms and recommendations on this matter.
When building a house, you need to think about every little thing: the type of foundation, the way the walls are trimmed, and the roof structure. Of course, one of the most popular types of roof is gable, that is, having two slopes, and this popularity is explained by numerous advantages.
Advantages of a gable roof
Here are the strengths of this design:
- resistance to strong winds;
- simplicity of construction (if compared with other types of roof, except for one-pitched);
- aesthetics;
- the possibility of using a number of design techniques;
- high precipitation rate;
- the possibility of independent construction with a minimum consumption of building materials.
Be that as it may, for the construction of such a roof, some knowledge is required - coping without them will be quite difficult.
Distinctive features
A gable roof is a pair of ramps (inclined planes) that share a common boundary and are positioned at an appropriate angle relative to each other. The side fasteners in the structure are called pediments, and the border of contact is called the skate.
It should be noted that the angle between the planes, as well as their length and length of eaves, are very different - in this case everything depends on the features of the project.
It is very popular today, this kind of roof with an attic in the attic. This solution allows you to acquire additional living space.
An important stage in the construction is the calculation of the rafter, because it affects the strength and reliability of the entire roof. In a word, the quality of building materials should not be saved: pick only flat bars without knots or cracks. Usually, high-strength pine is used for rafters. It does not need to use twisted wood, otherwise irregularities appear on the surface of the roof after installation.
Gable roof of the house with their own hands: the stages of construction
- Mounting the Mauerlat.
- Auxiliary fasteners for increasing the rigidity of the roof (racks, struts, skates, crossbars and so on).
- Assembling the crate, followed by thermo-, hydro- and vapor insulation.
- Installation of roofing.
Note! Mauerlatt is a detail of the rafter system, which is a bar laid along the entire perimeter outer wall. Lower support for rafters.
Stage one. Features of the Mauerlat installation
The bars of the Mauerlat are fixed to the wall in one of two existing ways:
- during the filling of the reinforcing belt with the studs;
- during the installation of studs on the final rows of masonry.
Mounting Mauerlate
If you have chosen the first method, then start working with the floor pouring with a layer of concrete, where immediately pierce the studs in steps of one and a half meters. The reinforcing belt should be 25-30 cm in height. Each hairpin should protrude at least 3 cm above the Mauerlate (this is necessary in order to permanently fix them with a nut).
At the second way of fastening establish hairpins in final 3-4 rows of a laying. So hairpins ideally "will be entered" between bricks. In this case, correctly determine the height of the masonry and install the studs so that there remains a slight protrusion under the nut (do not forget about the height of the Mauerlat itself).
If you plan to cover an arbor or a small building for economic purposes, you can replace the studs with a thick steel wire of the required length for the binding of the Mauerlat. But if it comes to the house, then without the hairpins, of course, not do.
Note! Before installing the Mauerlat, put a layer of insulation (or better several at a time). You can use a roofing material for this.
Stage two. Installation of rafters
Usually for the construction of rafters use a bar section of 15x10 cm. The length of the bars depends on the dimensions of the roof overhang. To make the same rafters and to avoid possible unevenness at the same time, during the fastening to the ridge build one common pattern, with which you will measure the dimensions of the elements of the rafter system.
First set the outer rafters, then draw the threads between them and put the rest. For fixing the rafters to the Mauerlat, use the brackets and small cutouts on the inside of the rafter legs.
Note! It is highly undesirable to make cutouts in the Mauerlate itself, since they are capable of weakening it. Do them only at the ends of the rafters (where they will come into contact with the Mauerlatt).
If the upper joints of the rafters are fixed without a ridge, then do it by butt and fix the sides with screws and brackets (in case of insignificant weight of the roof, conventional screws will fit). Do this as follows: adjust the rafter feet to the desired angle of incline, cut the remains vertically. Connect formed slices through vertical borders.
Stage three. Additional fasteners
If the span exceeds 4 m, the rafters with the ridge need additional fastening. You can fasten the bar over the rafters by making corners in them. You can do this from below, after having made small notches in the rafter's legs. This can be done even in the center, but you will spend a lot of time and energy on this.
It is worth noting that if the weight and dimensions of the roof are insignificant, then the upper ends can be lapped together, and not by butt and bolted. If the roof structure has racks vertical arrangement, then support the rafters with struts for better stability. In the absence of a ridge beam, connect the upper parts of the rafters with a horizontal bar (it is called a deadbolt) and build a rack already below it.
In short, there are many options - choose the one that suits you best.
Stage four. Assembling the battens
- solid;
- rarefied.
If you need a continuous crate, then it always requires a sparse.
When constructing a sparse crate, fix the boards at a certain distance from each other (from 10 cm to 50 cm, depending on the design features). It is ideal for slate, metal and other roofing materials, made in the form of sheets.
The solid crate differs in that the gaps between the boards in it do not exceed 1 cm. It is intended for roll roofing materials, soft roofing, etc. Over the continuous crate, nail a sparse (for the latter you can use small bars with a section of 5x5 cm).
Bars should be nailed to the rafters at a distance that depends on the slope of the roof. To maintain parallelism, we must use a wooden "interval"
After the installation of the rafters, lay a layer of insulation, a hydro- and a vapor barrier between them. When using a heater in the form of plates (in other words, a material with a fixed width), then at the design stage you must calculate the step of the rafters in such a way that it fits the dimensions of the slabs. So when laying insulation there will be no problems.
On the insulation apply a vapor barrier (on the inside of the rafters) and waterproofing (on the outside and only after the installation of the crate).
Stage five. Installation of roofing
After the construction of the gable roof you only have to cover it roofing material. When choosing a material, remember that it has a certain weight. Therefore, the roof needs to be calculated so that it can withstand:
- loads in the form of precipitation;
- weight of the roofing and accessories;
- own weight.
In general, there are no universal instructions for installing the coating, because everything depends on the material selected. But in order to make the right choice, check out the technical characteristics basic types of roofs.
The final stage of the construction of the roof with two ramps will be the construction of the cornice. Install it on a pre-equipped crate (for its manufacture use ordinary slats cross-section 2,5х2,5 cm). However, do not forget to provide for the release, which should be about 40 cm.
