• Planning work
  • Preparation for facing with stone
  • Preliminary laying of a stone
• Laying on glue or cement
• Finishing the plinth: the order of work

How to lay the foundation stone with their own hands and why is this material the best? A solid foundation is a guarantee of reliability, durability of the house, and the whole part is taken over by the whole load. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to protect the socle with facing material. One of the best options is a natural stone, which perfectly protects the foundation from temperature changes, precipitation, mechanical damage. The use of slabs from this material allows solving a number of problems, including extending the life of the entire building, monitoring the humidity in the premises, creating comfortable conditions. Laying socle stone is possible in several ways, most often it is glue or cement mortar. Actual is the dry cladding.

Before facing the foundation, you need to thoroughly clean the surface and level it with plaster.

Planning work

To begin any facing work it is necessary with planning. It is necessary to calculate the total area of ​​the external surface of the foundation, which will be covered with a stone, choose the material, the method of its attachment. In the calculations it is necessary to add 12% to the cutting, to determine the number taking into account the manufacturer's recommendations. It is necessary to pick up a natural stone, proceeding from its qualities and characteristics. Today, travertine, granite, quartzite, marble, slate, onyx, sandstone, limestone are in demand. Thickness should not be significant, as this will entail a large consumption of glue, and the cladding itself will not be strong.

Used for facing is not only a popular "wild" stone with uneven, irregular edges, but also beautiful tiles of geometric shape, polished, matt or with a textured surface. The most durable is the "wild" stone. It is easier to lay, it is suitable for almost any exterior of the building. Some of the most accessible are gray finishing materials, tiles of green, red colors will be more expensive, and the most expensive are blue.

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Preparation for facing with stone

There are several ways of covering the foundation with a stone, but in any case careful preparation is required, since the weight of the material will be considerable, the base must withstand it. Before installation, it is first necessary to clean the basement part of the foundation, removing dust, mortar residues, dry mixes. After that, the seams are cleaned, if the socle is made of brick or large blocks. At a concrete tape or a plate cut off all inflows of a solution, fill in them hollows and cracks if they are available.

Then the surface should be washed, dried, primed with a special concrete contact (applied with a brush). It is necessary to choose a coarse primer: it will increase the adhesion, i.e., adhesiveness of the adhesive to the substrate. Its consumption is about 250 g per 1 m². It takes about 7 hours to dry, it is necessary to work at an air temperature of + 5-35 ° C. It is important to remove all the dust, since the primer loses its qualities when applied to the dirty surface of the foundation. It is possible for the reliability to further tighten the socle with a metal mesh.

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Preliminary laying of a stone

Pre-stacking of stone is a kind of "fitting", i.e. preparation before gluing. It is necessary to first draw a drawing on the paper with the dimensions of the foundation and the layout of the layout, take into account the transitions, framing the corner parts, steps, porch, window openings of the basement or ventilation holes.

Next, an approximate laying of the stone on a horizontal surface is performed, best of all on a sandy and dried ground. This allows you to adjust the layout, tile, adjust the position of individual elements. With the help of the grinder, cutting is performed, but before that it is important to measure all the parts several times, since the cut piece for the cladding may not be suitable.

Self-finishing natural stone   must be carried out with observance of all stages, otherwise there will be a skew, the facing will begin to "move down", ie the aesthetics will be broken. It should be noted that the stone is subject to temperature compressions and expansions. To the preparation stage is also the kneading of the solution. On sale there are special dry mixtures, the consumption of which is approximately 290-310 ml per 1 kg of dry glue.

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Laying on glue or cement

Usually, a stone based mortar is used, based on conventional cement and sifted sand. It is also possible to use special dry compositions that have excellent adhesion properties to the surface.

The adhesive can withstand pressures up to 1 MPa, it is elastic, frost-resistant, perfectly withstands mechanical loads.

Facing the base in the end will turn out to be high-quality and reliable. The choice of glue depends on the stone used:

1. Slaboporistye and moisture resistant - a slab of slate, quartzite, dark granite. They have a large number of open pores, i.e. during work it is necessary to use special glue for porous stone or ordinary cement mortar.
2. Medium-porous materials, for example, black marble, light granite, sandstone, absorb moisture moderately. For finishing, you can use colorless glue, special compounds, which provide a limited absorption of moisture.
3. Porous, completely water-resistant slabs are thin white granite, white marble, travertine, limestone. When laying, you can use a special dry glue light color. Cement can not be used: it leaves dirty traces that completely fill the pores. Get rid of it will not work, the finish will lose its appeal.

Preliminary treatment is necessary for stone walls and highly porous rocks. If this is not done, the stone will turn yellow (for light plates), it will quickly become dirty. Initially, it is necessary to cover the surface with a special protective primer.

Natural stone is a fairly well-known and widely used material in the area of ​​facing a variety of surfaces. It is used almost everywhere - they trim a natural stone, walls, floors, fireplaces, build fences and even houses from it. Unlike the modern artificially created materials of such a plan, natural stone is distinguished by its exceptional purity and strength. Finishing and construction, performed with its use, serve the human well for centuries.

But, despite all its advantages, natural stone has one significant drawback - working with it is quite a complicated and time-consuming process. An exception to this rule can be called unless only prepared, cut into a certain size material - it will be able to lay themselves almost everyone who wishes, regardless of the qualification.

A foundation for laying a natural stone

Despite the similarity of the processes of laying a natural stone and, the difference in them is enormous. First, they differ in weight - the natural stone is much heavier. Secondly, their structure - if the tile has a specially prepared rear side for laying on any surface, then the natural stone of such a feature is completely devoid of. Moreover, its surface has less ability to absorb moisture and as a result has less adhesion (glue to it sticks worse).

It is these two differences, and especially the first, that cause some requirements to the base of the surface being lined.
First, strength. No plasterboard can be out of the question - on such a surface a natural stone can be produced by a force of five years, not more. If you are going to veneer with any kind of gypsum plasterboard, take care of choosing a stone of light rocks. It can be volcanic tuff or zeolite - the weight of these stones allows them to be used on similar plasterboard surfaces.

Kulej for a natural stone

Everyone probably understands that on the ordinary for tiles, and even more so on cement mortar, it is practically impossible to glue a natural stone. No, you can stick it on, the question is in another - how much will the stone last in its place? As a rule, no tile glue, such as Ceresit CM11, is able to hold a natural stone for a long time on horizontal, and even more so on vertical surfaces - it's all about the specifics of this material and its completely non-porous structure.

For natural stone, there is a separate group of glue compounds - you can use two types of binding materials. These are special mastics for stone covering, which allow it to be laid on a thin layer of glue, and solutions produced as dry mixtures that are perfectly suitable for mounting uneven natural stone, requiring the application of a thick layer of binder.

If to be introduced into the jungle of manufacturers of glue for a stone, from practice it is possible to tell only one - the majority of glutinous structures do not correspond to the characteristics described by manufacturers. They, so to speak, give wishful thinking. The most decent glue for natural stone is the mastic Tanaks Solido Paglierino beige and the thick Tenax Solido Trasparente honey hue. Their coloring is the best way to add all kinds of dyes, which will be needed for gluing the glue in case of using it for laying a stone of the wrong colors. Also, these adhesives are perfectly suited for the so-called grouting of joints - by correctly selecting their coloring, it is possible to achieve complete homogeneity of the finished surface.

How to glue a natural stone

Before you start laying a natural stone, it must be calibrated - so to speak, divided into large, small and medium. This is necessary in order to subsequently compose from them an ordered composition - laid apart, without observing the structure, the stone looks, at least, ridiculous. If it is a question of laying the cut natural stone, then this point can be ignored and immediately proceed to compose the composition.

The layout of the stone is best done directly on the wall - an exercise, of course, inconvenient and painstaking, but if you want to get a beautiful surface, then this step will not be avoided. If it is a stone mosaic, it will be sufficient to determine the necessary sequence of stacked elements. But if you are going to clay the walls with a multifaceted stone, then for each stone you will have to look for a suitable place - in order not to get confused, stones are better numbered and pick up small areas of area. Prepared half a square, you can stack - some experienced experts such selection is carried out during the installation. Put a pebble, picked up the next - but for this you need to keep in mind the overall picture of the layout.

Now about the process of laying a natural stone - in this case, without subtleties also does not do. For a quality gluing of natural stone, you will have to prepare two types of glue - one thick, the other rare as sour cream. With liquid glue the rear surface of the glued stone is smeared, and the dense is applied directly to the wall. The purpose of the first liquid solution is to penetrate as deeply as possible into the smallest pores of the stone, and the purpose of the second (thick) glue is to directly hold this material on the vertical surface of the wall. A rare adhesive can be replaced with a special, ready-to-use mastic.

These varieties of glue compositions are also applied differently on the surface - mastic or a rare glue spread on the stone with a brush, and thick with the help of a comb. After the surfaces are smeared, the pebble is attached to the wall and tightly and pressed to it with hands. After the end of laying and complete drying of the glue, the joints are sealed-all the same glue is used for these purposes, with the dye added, if necessary. Seams are filled with a special gun having a tube for loading the solution.

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More and more common in the finishing of flats of houses is a wild stone tile. Laying such a tile is much easier than conventional ceramic. Facing with a wild stone   It does not require laying out an even plane, which greatly simplifies and speeds up the process. But first things first.

For laying, we will need:

• Actually tile
• Tiled adhesive or mastic
• Spatulas: smooth and serrate
• Paint tape to close adjacent surfaces (if any)
• Angle grinding machine ("Bulgarian") with a diamond cutting disc for cutting tiles
• Acrylic Sealant Sealant

Facing wild stone   usually sold in square meters, or boxes. In the box there are tiles of two to three sizes. Tiles, as a rule, differ in one size, which allows you to lay out the rows of different patterns and avoid joints one over one. It is desirable that the joints of the tiles each time appear in a new place, and the eye could not catch any regularity. Combining with this rule will help achieve the most natural "wild" surface.

For gluing of wild stone, any tile glue or cement mortar can be used, but it is better to purchase TerraPast special Terraco mastic. Mastic is immediately ready for use, has a very pleasant consistency, is viscous enough, does not flow and does not splatter, and it is easily distributed over the surface of the stone. The tile on such mastic sticks to the wall in seconds, it can still be torn off for 10-15 minutes without much effort, but after one hour this is a finished coating that can not be adjusted. The cost of such a mastic is more, but the consumption is less than that of mortar or cement glue, as the sufficient thickness of the mastic is 2-3 mm.

So, let's start facing.

If the facing surface is adjacent to a finishing finish or, for example, to the built-in closet, close the adjacent part with a paint tape so that it does not get smeared with glue or mastic.

We begin to lay the tile from the bottom up. If veneer facing   does not start from the floor, you can use one of the following methods:

1. Screw to the wall below the first row of tiles a section of the PP profile for GKL and use it as a temporary support
2. If veneer facing   Fits on the mastic, then you can simply paste the first row of tiles and wait for laying the second row 20-40 minutes. Mastic will gain sufficient strength

Glue (mastic) evenly applied to the surface and thin out with a notched trowel. We glue the tile, remove the excess glue. Since the cladding with a wild stone must mimic a complex natural chaotic texture, there is no need to control the horizontality of rows and so on. Our surface must turn out to be devoid of the correct geometry.

Facing with a wild stone: internal corners

If you decide to clothe two (or more) adjacent walls, you will inevitably come to the corners. In this case, the tile will have to be cut. It is not recommended to start laying tiles from corners, especially if the lining is a torn surface. Cut off the ends of the tiles look ugly, so it's better to hide them in the corner joint. Joint we make with a gear bandage.

Facing with a wild stone: the outer corners

In the store, along with the tiles, you will most likely be offered corner facing elements. But, given that the cost of 1 mp. corner tiles is approximately equal to the cost of 1 m2 of ordinary tile wild stone, for the sake of economy, I advise you to make a corner with conventional tiles with a gear bandage.

Toothed bandaging in the corners

Well, veneer facing   completed. There were finishing touches. In complex places, such as the corner or the upper part of a niche lined inside with a wild stone, very often large slots remain that can ruin the appearance of the finish. We seal them with acrylic sealant. Gradually fill the gap with sealant to the entire depth of the seam, level the surface. In the case where the lateral visible side of the tiles does not completely adhere to the wall, it is possible to remove this defect with a sealant. Sealant it is desirable to choose the tone of the tiles. If there is no suitable color, buy white. After drying it can be painted in the right color with acrylic paint.

Such a technique, like decorative facing with a stone using natural materials, is widely used both in facade works and in interior decoration. In this case, if the facade cladding in most cases looks rather traditional and reserved, the wide use of elements made of natural stone in the interior of the house becomes a kind of key moment, a way to emphasize the elegance of the interior and the prestige of its owner.

At the same time, facing with a stone is not only an effective decorative technique, but also very practical solution. Many varieties of natural stone, for example, limestone or sandstone, are fairly simple to process, and at the same time they are resistant to unfavorable external influences. That is why they are ideal for facade works, and decorative interior elements made of these materials will certainly serve you for many years, keeping an impeccable appearance.

From its part, the company "Fair of Stone" offers you a wide range of materials, thanks to which facing the stone will open for you a fundamentally new decorative features. At your service as various options for smooth facing tiles, and texture blocks and strips of limestone, thanks to which you can simulate the effect of masonry.

To make the decorative facing of a natural stone look spectacular and original, we recommend that you do not limit yourself in choosing colors and textures - bold combinations of different materials can be a source of inspiration for you, thanks to which fresh, interesting design solutions will appear. We hope that our materials will help you in your creative work and help you realize the boldest ideas.
  Finishing facilities

Decorative facing of a facade with a stone is, perhaps, the most traditional sphere of application of finishing tiles and blocks from a natural stone. Nevertheless, we want to once again draw your attention to the fact that the natural stone presented in our catalog is, among other things, excellent material for interior design. Amazing variety of colors, shades and textures is a real palette of colors that you can use to realize any decorative solutions.

It's no surprise that today the facing is at the height of popularity in the field of interior design. It is used not only for individual parts, such as fireplaces, stairs or countertops, but also as the main material for complex interior finishing - including for wall and ceiling finishing, for paving patios and swimming pools. In addition, the stone tile is ideal for flooring on which the heated floor heating system is installed. The stone in the interior is especially good due to its versatility, strength, durability and moisture resistance.

Speaking about actual trends, do not forget that, first of all, decorative facing with a stone is not a novelty, but a traditional technique, well known since the times of ancient civilizations and the classical antique period. Each of the great epochs in art and architecture has contributed to the skill of stone processing, and today all this treasury is open for us to create new, fresh solutions. An amazingly fruitful synthesis of traditions and innovations is the main secret of the success of the stone facing today.

Simply put, stone tiles and cladding with a natural stone do not return to fashion at all - they just never left it. The only fundamental difference of today is that, unlike the past decades and centuries, exquisite stone decoration has become much more accessible. Today, each of us can use elite natural materials to make our home cozier. It is also worth noting that the facing with natural stone surprisingly seamlessly fits into the modern interior, giving it a special elegance.

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How to determine how much facing you need

For cladding, as a rule, two types of elements are used:

1. Planar, the number of which is measured in square meters. The area of ​​the surface to be coated is calculated by multiplying the length of the surface covered by the lining by its height. Then, the resulting result subtracts the area of ​​windows, doors, openings and other surfaces that are not lined.

2. Corner, measured by running meters. When converting angles into a plane, it is necessary to take into account that the height of the corner element is about ¼ of its length. Summing the lengths of external angles and multiplying by 0.2, we get a fairly accurate result, but it is always necessary to have some additional number of angular and planar elements. Recommended stock is from 5% to 10%.

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How to prepare the surface before installation

General requirement for all types of bases

The basis, regardless of the type, should be:
  Dry (no more than 4.5% on the surface, but better at a depth of 3 cm, for cement bases, and not more than 0.5% for gypsum and wooden substrates).
  Even (uneven ground up to 2 cm per 1 sq. M) is allowed.
  Strong (not less than M100). If the substrate is multilayered, the adhesion between the layers should be at least 0.5 MPa for internal work and at least 1.0 MPa for outdoor work.
  Cleaned from traces of loose plaster, mortar, grease, oil, efflorescence, paint, ice and other adhesion-impairing substances.
  Not subject to shrinkage or deformation.

Facing materials ART STONE can be laid out on different surfaces: wooden and metal, brick and concrete, etc. Each type of surface has its own training features.

Features of training depending on their type

Concrete base

Problems with installation on a concrete base practically does not happen, if all the requirements described above are met. The only thing that needs to be paid attention is the porosity of the concrete. If the concrete is very dense and the porosity is practically absent, it is desirable to treat it with a primer for better adhesion (component grasping).
  Cement or cement-lime plaster, cement putty

If the plaster is strong enough, with normal porosity, then no pre-treatment is required. Installation of the lining is made directly on the plaster. The plaster must already dry and get strength - this usually occurs after 28 days.

Old concrete or plaster

Old bases, if they are strong, it is easy to treat with a primer, and then perform the installation of the cladding. If the foundation is not stable, then it is necessary to resort to the services of professionals who, after carrying out a thorough inspection, will conduct qualified preparation of the grounds for installation. If there is oil paint on the concrete, then it is impossible to glue the stone, or it is necessary to make notches, to sand and plaster (glossy it is impossible - slippery).

Brick

A new masonry, if it is done fairly neatly, i.e. smooth and the seams between the bricks do not contain omissions and voids, does not require additional processing. The stone is mounted directly on a brick wall.

If the surface of the brick is smooth, then first it is necessary to make incisions, to work with a primer or a concrete contact (this is a compound that, when applied, forms a viscous layer, very rough, promotes better adhesion).

The old masonry, first of all, must be cleaned of efflorescence, then treated with a primer and, preferably, plastered. After that you can proceed with the installation of the cladding. If the masonry is in good condition, then you can do without plaster.

If the masonry is uneven or contains large voids in the seams, then it must be pre-plastered.

Blooms   (concrete in non-removable foam plastic formwork)

In this case, the basis for the glue is foam. It is not possible to mount the lining directly onto the foam, since the strength of the foam is not high. Therefore, it is necessary to proceed as follows: a plaster grid is attached to the base, which is then plastered, and only then the lining is assembled.

Tree

A very complex basement that must be examined beforehand, since in most cases individual recommendations will be required. If wooden house   stands on stilts, it is recommended to use a light stone. However, there are basic requirements: the wooden base must be dry and not subject to deformation (not bend).

When working with wooden surfaces, it is necessary first to mount a waterproofing material, for example, a moisture-proof construction paper. It is laid in horizontal rows, the upper row on the lower overlap of 4 cm; vertical seams should also overlap 8 cm. After installing the waterproofing on the surface with the help of galvanized nails or staples are fastened stucco, which must be protected against corrosion. The distance between the fasteners along the vertical is 10-15 cm, horizontally 35-40 cm. On the inner and outer angular surfaces the grid is installed in two layers. On top of the grid put a layer of plaster mortar about 1 cm thick. Before installing the cladding, the plaster must dry.
  Plywood and plasterboard (use necessarily waterproof) should be attached to the supporting wall

The base must be absolutely dry and securely fastened, that is, it should not bend, move, or the like. Plywood and gypsum board must be treated with a primer or a concrete contact. After that you can proceed with the installation of the cladding.

If you are going to revet a metal surface, or a painted brick or concrete wall, the preparation procedure differs from the preparation of wooden surfaces, only in that no waterproofing is required.

Base porosity

According to the porosity of the base are divided into 3 types:
  Strongly porous, dusty (a drop of water is absorbed immediately, in less than 30 seconds). Such bases are treated with a primer.
  Normally porous (a drop of water is absorbed from 30 seconds to 2 minutes). Such bases are treated with a primer.
  With closed porosity (a drop of water remains up to 10-30 min.) Such a surface is obtained after treatment with helicopter smoothing and is treated only with a primer, applied to the substrate with a brush or roller. Do not puddle during application. It is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the primer. Drying time is usually 30-60 minutes. Average consumption: 150-200 g / m2. The mortar mixture (adhesive composition) must be applied within 12 hours after primer application.

Cracks

Cracks on the bases arise mainly for two reasons and are:
  Shrinkage, arising from shrinkage deformations. Such cracks are usually final, no longer growing, provided they are properly processed. As a rule, such cracks appear only on the surface, they are not deep and diverge in all directions, the length does not exceed 15-60 cm.
Temperature, arising from the temperature fluctuations of the screed and the base. These cracks are deep, long and go, usually from wall to wall. Such cracks can grow with time.

Methods for processing cracks:
  Small shrinkage cracks, up to 1 mm in width, do not need additional processing.
  Shrinkage cracks, more than 2 mm in width, are recommended to be sealed to sealants, for example, acrylic or polyurethane, otherwise the mortar mixture (adhesive composition) will settle.
  The temperature cracks must be opened up to a width of approximately 1 cm and filled with epoxy composition with the addition of sand to remove a flat surface (in fact it is the glue that glues this surface) and, if required, additionally fasten with iron staples.

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Before you start, be sure to make a mix of different packs of artificial stone (at least 2 m2) and lay out on the ground the future pattern of masonry. This will give you the opportunity to choose a color scheme and a picture of the future masonry. From the outside you can better estimate the overall pattern of the masonry.

To get a more natural look, alternate elements by size, thickness, color and texture during installation. Use the lining of several packages at the same time. If you prefer the laying of the cladding ART STONE with the seams, then in order to avoid contamination of the already installed material, lay the cladding elements, PROMING UP DOWN. Try to install them so that the gap between them is almost the same everywhere. The recommended clearance is 1.5 to 2.5 cm. Avoid long straight seams when installing, both vertically, horizontally and diagonally.

With a seamless lining, stack the elements from the top, pressing the upper rows to the bottom.

Laying the facing "Brick" and rectangular types of stones, special attention   Pay attention to the horizontal lines, using the building level for this. Also, make sure that the angle at the intersection of the vertical and horizontal seam lines is 90 degrees.

Where to begin

Start the installation with ANGLE ELEMENTS. Lay them, alternating short and long sides.
  How to adjust the facing materials to the dimensions

To achieve the best fitting results, the cladding elements need to be trimmed using a grinder with a diamond disc or a stone disc. The treated sides of the stones should be placed in such a way that they are either higher or lower than the angle of view. For the best concealment, seal them with a solution.

How to lay the cladding

Using a trowel, apply a layer of masonry mortar with a thickness of about 1.5 cm to the back side of the facing element. Ensure that the mortar covers the entire surface.
   Press the lining element against the wall. Slightly seduce him to achieve the best fixation. In this case, the solution must be squeezed out from all sides of the installed element:
  the solution must be applied entirely on the entire back side of the lining element, so that when installing the surplus squeezed out at the edges;
  immediately after installation, using a trowel, remove the excess solution, leaving, however, its thin layer on the ends. It is also possible to apply a thin layer of solution to the ends using a special bag filled with a solution.
  If the lining is installed on a very dry surface or the weather is hot and dry, then the elements and surface to be installed should be pre-moistened with a spray or paint brush. Elements cladding can be completely dipped in a bucket of water. After wetting, allow the moisture to soak for 2 minutes.
  If a solution gets into the lining during installation, remove it immediately with water and a brush.

In the case of seamless laying, the procedure for wetting the facing elements must be carried out depending on the weather conditions.

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Jointing

Seaming joints is filling them with cement mortar in order to seal and give the clutch a more aesthetic appearance.

The dressing is carried out using a special bag to fill the joints with mortar. Such a bag is easy to make yourself. To do this, it is enough to cut off one of the corners of a conventional medium-sized plastic bag, and do it in such a way that the diameter
  The resulting outlet was slightly less than the width of the seams between the cladding elements.

Fill the bag with a solution. Slowly squeezing the solution through the hole in the bag, gently fill the seams with it. Fill the seams completely. Be careful not to get the mortar on the lining.

When the solution seams in the seams, use a wooden or metal tool to remove its excess, while ramming the seams. Do not try to process the joints immediately after filling them, since the solution that has not yet grasped will leave dirty traces on the lining.

After removing the surplus solution for final alignment and polishing of the joints, they must be combined with a panicle made of plant materials or plastic. Never use wire whisk or solvents to clean the liner!

Seaming is a very important stage in the execution of work. Its result should be a complete exclusion of the possibility of moisture penetration under the installed lining, otherwise freezing may destroy the masonry and the lining itself.

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Completion of work(use of a hydrophobizator for protection artificial stone)

After the final drying of the masonry, you can treat it with a special protective hydrophobic composition, which forms an elastic semipermeable membrane on the surface.
  Such a coating does not break down from the thermal movements of the house, reflects water, protects from the effects of solar radiation and acid rain.
  Especially need such protection in the event of temperature changes, sweating and other influences that can spoil or pollute the lining.
  Be sure to treat the lining if it is installed in pools, on fireplaces or where it can be contaminated, constantly exposed to water or exposed to aggressive environments.

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Extract from SNiP 3.04.01-87 "Insulation and finishing coatings"

3.51. Lining surfaces should be performed according to the PPR in accordance with the project. The connection of the lining with the base must be carried out:
  when using facing slabs and blocks of more than 400 cm2 in size and more than 10 mm in thickness - by fixing to the base and filling with a solution of the space between the lining and the wall surface (sinuses) or without pouring the sinuses with a solution when the lining is against the wall;
  when using slabs and blocks of 400 cm2 or less in size, not more than 10 mm in thickness, and also when covering with slabs of any sizes of horizontal and inclined (not more than 45%) surfaces - in solution or mastic (in accordance with the design) without additional fastening to the base ;
  when facing with embedded plates and facing bricks   simultaneously with the laying of walls - on masonry mortar.

3.52. Lining of walls, columns, pilasters of interiors of premises should be performed before the floor covering device.

3.53. Elements of facing on the adhesive layer of mortar and mastic should be installed in horizontal rows from the bottom upwards from the corner of the facing field.

3.54. Mastic and mortar adhesive layer should be applied evenly, without streaks, before the installation of tiles. Small-sized tiles on mastics or solutions with retarders should be installed after the application of the latter over the entire lining area in the same plane with thickening of mastics and solutions with retarders.

3.55. The finishing of the site and the whole surface of the interior and facade with facing products of different colors, textures, textures and sizes should be done with the selection of the whole pattern of the facing area in accordance with the design.

3.56. Elements of cladding when using natural and artificial stone polished and glazed texture must be dampened, adjusting the edges of the adjacent adjacent plates according to the drawing with the fastening according to the project. The joints of the plates must be filled with mastic after the filling of the sinuses with a solution and its hardening.

3.57. Plates with polished, pointed, hilly and furrowed structure, as well as with relief of the "rock" type, should be installed on the solution; Vertical seams should be filled with mortar to a depth of 15 - 20 mm or sealant after the adhesive hardens the adhesive layer.

3.58. The seams of the facing should be even, of the same width. When facing the walls erected by the freezing method, the filling of the seams of the cladding from the embedded ceramic plates must be carried out after thawing and hardening of the masonry mortar with loads on the walls not less than 80% of the designed.

3.59. Filling sinuses with a solution must be done after installing a permanent or temporary fixing the lining. The solution should be filled with horizontal layers, leaving after pouring the last layer of the solution, the space up to the top of the lining is 5 cm.
   The solution, filled in the sinuses, with technological interruptions exceeding 18 hours, should be protected from moisture loss. Before continuing the work, the unfilled part of the sinus should be cleaned of dust with compressed air.

3.60. After facing the surface of the plates and articles should be cleaned from the inflow of mortar and mastic immediately, while the surfaces of glazed, polished and polished slabs and articles are washed with hot water, and grinded, dotted, hummocky, grooved and rock-like are treated with 10% solution of hydrochloric acid and steam with a sandblaster.

3.61. Surfaces from under the sawing of slabs of soft rocks (limestone, tuff, etc.), as well as protruding edges of the plates with polished, polished, grooved and spot surfaces protruding more than 1.5 mm shall be polished, polished or podseseny accordingly clear contour edges of slabs.

Despite the fact that for many years the construction market has been filled with many different products for every taste and color, natural and artificial stone can not be replaced. This material   can create an amazing atmosphere in the home. At the same time, the main feature of such a coating can be called its durability. Unlike plastic panels   and wallpaper, any stone wall cladding in the apartment is extraordinarily durable. Applying it for decoration external walls, we get a home that is not subject to aging and a gradual deterioration in appearance.

The stone was considered to be an actual material at any time. Its strength and decorative components do not cause any doubt. However, there is always a problem of choice between natural and artificial coating. Many mistakenly believe that natural stone is the best option for all known parameters. Perhaps, some time ago it was so, but now everything has changed. The inner walls of the dwelling should be lined with an artificial stone. In this case, we can count not only on the high quality of the finish, but also on some other important features of such a coating. There are many factors that indicate that artificial stone is much better and more practical than natural stone:

1. Artificial stone is less crumbled, and also has a small weight. Due to this, the material is easily attached to the surface.
2. He is practically not threatened by temperature changes. In this case, the appearance of cracks is almost impossible, which is very important when facing the fireplace.
3. The rear surface of the non-natural material has a special treatment that allows it to be easily attached to any substrate.
4. Thanks to the special technology of artificial stone production, it practically does not burn out in direct sunlight.
5. The unique thermal insulation properties of such a coating are also an order of magnitude higher than their nearest competitor.
6. The choice of natural stone, unfortunately, is not too big. Artificial material is produced in hundreds of variants of colors and reliefs.
7. Smooth surface of non-natural linings makes it easy to take care of it.
8. Standardization of the dimensions of the artificial material makes it possible to make the laying as simply as possible.

In addition to the above factors, artificial stone has high strength and durability. In addition to the huge number of positive sides, this type of coverage has a small cost. Particularly serious is the price of the issue when choosing the material for facing large areas.

Application features decorative stone

It should be said that the use of a stone creates some kind of protection of space. If it is used with taste, the dwelling will look just chic.

To create a unique atmosphere of the house, which would be uniquely liked by everyone, it is necessary to approach the process of finishing as seriously as possible. Stone wall covering is a responsible process, during which the employee must make many serious decisions. Immediately it is worth saying that it is a bad idea to pave the whole surface of the wall with a stone, because then the dwelling will look more like a cave than a modest apartment. Many experts advise decorating only in certain places. It can be door and window openings, areas above the surface of skirting boards, places for shoes, shelves and other objects. You can also decorate with the stone the corners of the dwelling and the area where the furniture is located.

The best option is a partial finish. In this case, we do not lose the feeling that we are in a small residential area, and the stone gives the interior a certain solidity and the feeling that we are in a kind of fortress.

Selection of stone for cladding

Fortunately, choosing a great material for decoration is pretty simple. The most important thing is that it is combined as much as possible with other elements of design. If the room is small, experts advise to buy a stone of small and medium size, so that everything in the house looked harmonious. Often, the owners prefer a light veneer. In addition to a pleasant appearance, this material will also visually expand the space.

The choice of the structure of the stone surface is very important. The main thing is that the final composition should look as natural as possible. If you have preferred the facing of walls with a natural stone, you should seriously analyze what the appearance of the room will ultimately be. The diverse dimensions of this coating create an ambiguous structure and relief, which may not appeal to everyone.

Surface preparation for cladding

It is obvious that the tiles are not immediately put on the "bare" wall. Before you can apply a stone to your walls, you will need to apply several layers of other materials to create the foundation. A similar technology is similar to the one required for tiling the surface. However, it is important to remember that in the case of a stone, a certain curvature of the surface is allowed. This only has a positive effect on the appearance of the composition.

The base must be really high-quality, strong and reliable, because the stone has a lot of weight, which means it creates a serious load.

To prepare the walls, they should be plastered. Experts at the same time advise to use reinforced mesh, which will only add strength. Often, when decorating the room also use drywall, but there is no special need for this.

For those who prefer a natural stone, which has a lot of weight, you should use a metal mesh as a reinforcement wall. Artificial material, as already noted, weighs little, so only a layer of plaster is enough.

To securely fix the decorative stone, liquid nails, tile or silicone glue are often used. Any of these options is quite reliable. Also, relatively recently, a glue for stone appeared on the market, which allows to fix the material no less firmly on the surface of the wall.

In certain cases, a conventional cement solution is used. For optimal results, various plasticizers and PVA glue are added to it, which significantly increase the reliability of fastening.

Often people prefer a classic composition for tiles. To make it, just pour a little water in the bucket and gradually add a dry mixture. This solution must be thoroughly mixed until uniform.

Features of stone surface cladding

If you have available elements of different sizes and shapes, you need to make a sketch, which would show how everything will look after the cladding. This will prevent in advance the problems that arise due to a mismatch in the dimensions of the material. It is also important to take into account the seams arising from the use of artificial stone. Often their width can be up to 8 mm.

The process of facing the walls:

1. First, you will need to apply the mortar to the wall surface with a spatula. Do not immediately cover the entire surface, because facing the wall with a stone - a fairly long process. When using an artificial material that strongly resembles a tile, it is necessary to mason the rows, beginning with the bottom. It is also desirable to use plastic crosses that will not allow uneven lining to be made.
2. If, during the facing of the walls under the stone, it turned out that the dimensions of some particular fragments are too large, you can apply the Bulgarian and cut them into pieces. However, it is important that such an action does not spoil the appearance of the composition.
3. After all the rows of the stone are laid, and the solution has dried (often it takes about two days), you can remove all the auxiliary elements. This may include special retaining devices and the above plastic crosses. Then excess solutions are scraped off.
4. Now we need a grout to fill the seams. Due to the specific nature of the material, here we rarely get perfectly smooth layers of grout, so it is best to use a wet cloth or sponge to apply the formulation.
5. If you apply a natural stone for the surface coating, you will also need to apply special primers that will protect the walls from the formation of moss and fungus.