How do the drainage of the site. Care of the drainage system. Drawing the layout of the elements

The article is devoted to the organization of drainage suburban area. We propose to understand the types of drainage and the criteria for selecting a particular system. Consider the nuances of designing drains, let's talk about their main elements. We have not disregarded the installation technique, as well as the maintenance of the drainage system.

Purpose and principle of drainage

The volumes of private construction grow from year to year. For some reasons, far from always the future homeowners have the opportunity to choose the ideal site in the hydrogeological plan, and in some regions almost all soils consist of "dysfunctional" clay and loam - an example is the Moscow suburbs. Trouble does not happen alone, to "earthy" questions, high groundwater adds weather troubles: large snow and their sharp spring melting, abundant autumn rains. Note that the water balance of the site can be violated and our own hands - with large-scale construction. This is a high-rise site redevelopment; stormwater catchment from the roof of a large area; waterproof cover of the yard; pools and ponds; artificial hills and alpine hills; massive fences on high and deep foundations, stopping water.

So, the problem of "excess water": the soil is waterlogged - as a result, we have poor health of many plants, winter freezing of water and soil grooming with various kinds of deformations of blind lands, paths and small foundations, the formation of ice, underflooding of cellars, the destruction of the basement of the main building, the appearance of mold and fungus in the premises, the expansion of mosquitoes and frogs. The most important thing is to count on the short-term of some negative factors, it is not necessary, such complexities are systematic and have a tendency to worsen over time.

The only way out in this situation is to make drainage for the site. Drainage is the hydrotechnical structure of the artificial soil system for the drainage of sedimentary, groundwater and deep water out of the site. The idea is that a network of surface (ditches) or deep (underground perforated pipes) channels located at an inclination is arranged along the site. Water seeps into them through holes or joints and descends into a nearby pond or ditch (an open drain) connected to a ravine, or a foundation pit filled with crushed stone, where it gradually absorbs into the ground. If direct diversion is not possible (large depth of the drainage pipes, neighboring structures, low location of the site ...), the moisture is collected in the drainage well-sump, from which it is pumped out by pumps.

Storm sewage usually does not connect to the drainage system, rainwater is conducted by separate lines with an identical slope parallel to the main drainage. This is not an axiom, with proper calculation, the reception of roofing water by drainage is quite possible.

It must be said that draining the site does not exclude, but only adds to the protection of buildings. Waterproofing and proper ventilation the foundation is needed in any case, and in case of a complicated hydrological situation it is recommended to construct the drainage of the foundations. We will talk about the protection of buildings in the next article.

Types of drainage

Before you start the drainage work, you will have to choose the type of drainage system that is most suitable for your site.

Surface, open drainage

The main competitor of deep pipe drainage. This system is suitable for soils that are slowly permeable, including clay and loam soils. Conventionally (!) A simple and inexpensive method of drainage, consisting in the installation of a network of ditches different widths (40-50 cm), depth (50-70 cm) and the shape of the section (V-shaped or trapezoidal slope of walls 25-35 degrees). The system usually consists of a central drain (this is the "exit channel"), lateral and field ditches. These channels have a tree-like arrangement system - preferably at right angles to each other, "from branches to the trunk." Accordingly, the central drain is larger and deeper lateral, and lateral - drainage. Canals of 30-40 cm can be filled with filtering material (crushed stone, broken brick, river pebbles). To collect sand and debris at the bottom of the ditch, special trapping vessels are installed. Above, surface drains can be covered with lattices and masked with turf.

By the type of placement, the ditches can be parallel (selected when the site has numerous stagnant zones) and random (if there are local, but large low spots on the site). Protection of extensive areas of the site is called linear drainage. As an option for local removal of water using point drainage, for example, to divert from the exit pipe roofing rainfall trough.

The most valid application of surface drainage will be in areas with a large natural bias, when it is permissible for water to be removed within one or two days. To the obvious drawbacks of this method of dehumidification is a somewhat unpresentable appearance of the system of open ditches, serious limitations in design, the need to produce a fairly serious amount of excavation work, the need for a competent placement of a large amount of raised land (it is filled with critical low spots, laid with shafts in the places for drainage ). Obligatory excavation works, in fact, make this drainage conditionally inexpensive: hydrological surveys and topographic survey should be done, the site carefully leveled, in order to avoid reverse biases, to remove and control vegetation, and to smooth the surface with a leveling plow several times.

Some difficulties are caused by care of surface drainage. After heavy downpours in the system, silt growths and other congestion can be formed, which must be monitored and immediately removed. Serious problems cause overgrown ditches vegetation, some species generally should be removed from the site, for example, willow, poplar, cattail. Drainages filled with filter elements are eventually tightened by the washed soil and serve for about 4-8 years, then require overhaul. Periodically, the operational recovery of gradients (again alignment and smoothing) is required.

Vertical drainage

This way to get rid of flooding is used infrequently. It consists in placing in specific points of the site special wells, wells and sedimentation tanks, usually in critical areas, mines, problem basements or near buildings. As these tanks are filled, the water is drained by the drainage pumps with float switches in the automatic mode. Apply such a system, when there is no necessary bias for the open drainage, and a linear deep tap along the pipes is difficult due to the lack of available water discharge points. Such drainage, in fact, is the simplest in terms of construction and labor, but for proper functioning it must be carefully designed, which is very difficult to do. A variant of vertical drainage can be considered a radial system, when the combined shaft wells are supplemented by wells and underground channels. Radiation drainage because of the high cost in private suburban construction is rarely used.

Deep, closed drainage

This is the leader among all types of drainage in terms of functionality, it is most often used. Such a system is suitable for any areas with excessive humidity or high groundwater levels, including those where there is no possibility of constructing a surface tap (there is no slope, dense development, extensive landscape design, a system of paths, complex multi-species landscaping ...). The closed drainage is durable (service life is more than 50 years) and is the most effective, it is easy to take care of, it allows solving a lot of complex issues of accomplishment and engineering tasks. On clay and loamy areas drainage pipes pawn even in the absence of obvious problems, so to speak, for prevention.

Deep drainage refers to the horizontal linear type, but its point application is also possible. The main element of this drainage system is drains in the form of ceramic, asbestos cement or polymer perforated pipes with a diameter of at least 110 mm, mounted horizontally with a slope (about 1 centimeter per meter), usually towards the natural flow of water on the site or in the storage wells. Disposable drains are usually "herringbone" at a depth of about one meter, they lie in the thickness of the sand-gravel cushion. At the turns of the pipes and at the forks, inspection wells are installed. If the territory is extensive and the total length of drainage exceeds 300 running meters, then a central drainage branch of increased cross-section is used, for an area of up to 20 hundred square meters, pipes of the same size are used. Further, we will consider this system in more detail as the most promising.

Other types of drainage

If the territory has strong water flows from the side, then the interception system is constructed, in this case the drains are usually located along the perimeter of the site.

Concomitant drainage is used to protect elongated structures, tunnels, ditches of various purposes, all kinds of communication lines located in the ground. These drains are located along the protected area. Near the buildings use the so-called wall drainage.

To localize the "stain", a ring system is invented, in which a closed closed funnel is created.

Separately, it is worth noting mole drainage, which is designed to pre-drain the site. In this case, special cavities are arranged for the gravitational localization of excess water.

In particularly difficult situations, or at high requirements, the problem of swampiness is solved by reservoir drainage, when under the problematic territory deepened inclined strata of crushed stone and sand are arranged.

Depending on the specific conditions, several types of drainage can be combined.

Features of drainage design

It is advisable to carry out works on the arrangement of drainage after the completion of capital construction and the completion of large-scale works on the site, so as not to damage the drainage elements. But to design the system better together with the development of all other drawings.

For the correct design of drainage, a lot of information is required:

Almost necessarily you need a topographic survey. The exception may be cases where the site is completely flat, but one way or another it is necessary to determine the overall slope, the ratio of the drained area to the surrounding terrain (lowland / hill), the way of diversion and the place of water discharge.
In advance, you should prepare a detailed plan of the site, which indicates the catchment area, engineering specifics and the interconnection of structures and other structures (fences, basins, cellars, ponds, alpine slides, points of storm sewage ...). Special attention is given to underground communications.
A separate item is a drawing of tracks, paved areas, curb-type fencing.
In some situations, geological and hydrological surveys may be very useful, which will shed light on the nature of the soils, the water regime and the balance. Most of the loamy areas have similar conditions and do not need such thorough exploration.

What should we get from the developers at the output? First of all, we need to have a technical and, not bad, economic justification for this or that type of drainage. Further the drawings. They usually indicate a plan for tapping water, a zone breakdown, anchored lines of drainage, points of location of inspection and collection wells. Under difficult conditions and highly developed systems - images of vertical sections and drainage scheme of structures will be required. Separately or in working drawings, a table of slopes and depressions is created. At the same stage, a specification is created for all the elements of the system (drain type, profile and cross-section) and the number of necessary construction Materials.

Organizations involved in the installation and development of drainage systems, as a rule, use the "Guidelines for the design of drainage of buildings and structures." It was developed in 2000 in OAO Mosproekt. The second is "Technical recommendations for the design, installation and operation of drains from polyethylene pipes with a filter sheath" (Laboratory of Underground Structures of State Unitary Enterprise "Research Institute Mosstroy", 2005).

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of integrated professional design, since errors in the arrangement of drainage can even worsen the situation. That is why, if there is a desire and opportunity to build a drainage system on its own, then it is better to contact the specialists for the project, especially since it is often possible to design the system even remotely (if you provide the necessary data to the developers). On the market, the average price for the design of drainage area was formed - about 15 thousand rubles with the departure, 10 - without visiting the site (if the customer can provide the necessary information). About 20-25 thousand will be the price of the issue, if the site is large, and the project includes the development of drainage of foundations and rainfall system.

Materials for closed drainage

The main element of deep drainage is the pipe. If before the drains were made of ceramics, clay, concrete, asbestos cement, metal, wood, stone, now they are replaced by polymeric hDPE pipes (low pressure polyethylene) or polypropylene with a diameter of 50-650 mm. Their advantages are undeniable:

Service life is more than 50 years.
High corrosion resistance.
Do not accumulate deposits, easily washed.
They have low hydraulic resistance.
They have high ring strength at low weight.
Have flexibility.
Easy to assemble.
There are perforations and a textile filter.

In private average construction, corrugated drains with an internal diameter of 110 mm and a length of up to 50 meters are commonly used. Some manufacturers supply the pipe not in bays, but in segments of 6/12 meters.

They can be produced with or without perforation (for point tapping). To collect sediment water (perchage), polyethylene pipes with perforations only in the upper sector - drainage. The holes are located in the valleys between the waves, which prevents their contamination, the size of the slotted perforation is about 1.5 mm.

To isolate from clogging with small particles, filters from geotextiles or coconut fibers are applied. With small diameters, the pipe is wrapped around the machine, if the drainage is more than 250 mm in cross section, then the filter is usually applied manually. On soils with a content of gravelly particles, filtering winding is not needed, for sandy loamy, clay soils - a filter is mandatory.

A plastic drain can have one or two walls, special ribs of rigidity. Single-walled pipes are suitable for most areas with a depth of up to 2 meters. Double-wall drains with stiffening ribs are used if it is necessary to cover more, there are special loads (road, structure, off-road zone ...), a very high level of groundwater, which can freeze and create strong soil movements.

Wells are also made of corrugated polyethylene. They differ in diameter of the shaft and in height. Special features can be: diameter, number and location of connections. The exact height of the well is obtained by cutting the shaft. The connection of the drain is carried out through the couplings, or the pipe enters the well directly into the holes.

An important element of deep drainage is the filter. For these purposes, geotextiles, which are made of polymers by knitting, woven and non-woven, are most often used. Due to the special structure, as well as the needle-punched holes, it is not susceptible to silting, but it perfectly filters the water. In addition, this material performs a separation and protective function, it does not age, withstands the influence of aggressive chemicals, does not tear from root growth, is not eaten by rodents, is not the habitat of mold and fungi. Often, the geotextile layer is part of the draining grids and membranes - a synthetic roll material with surface protrusions, which is made by extrusion. A natural analogue of geotextile is a coconut cloth, which is inferior to others building materials by functionality and durability.

To pump the water collected in the tanks, special drainage pumps. They are not designed to lift the water column to a high altitude, but they have good performance. They are divided into units for clean water - centrifugal, which cope with particles in size no more than 5 mm and the amount of mechanical impurities is not more than 5%. Pumps for dirty water have a slightly different impeller, so they are able to remove particles up to 20 mm in diameter, and the maximum of impurities can reach 10% of the volume. For the most difficult tasks, there is powerful pumps with metal cases, where the maximum can reach 35 mm and 25% respectively. Cooling drainage units water, so they have a submersible design. A clear plus is the lower fence, which provides a complete pumping out of the liquid. Switching on / off is automatic - float.

Some features of the drainage device

Installation of the system starts with excavation. The first thing to do is to dig a trench 20 centimeters deep deep than the design horizon of the drainage - this distance will be required for the cushion device. The width is the same principle: from the pipe to the walls of the trench we leave 20 cm. The approximate depth is from 50 cm to 3.5 meters. It is usually recommended to lay the channel below the depth of freezing - on average this is about 120 cm (to drain water from the roots of trees deepen by 1.5 or more meters). The distance between drains, as a rule, is from 5 to 10 meters, is selected depending on many conditions. The bottom of the trench should be arranged with a projected bias towards the collector, it should not have sharp stones and construction debris. Prepare, there will be a lot of excess soil, it is better to immediately sort it on two sides - separately the upper and the separate lower layer (the backfilling is more fertile - the rest is taken out or planned).

To improve the filtration and separation of layers of backfill from soils, the trench is lined with roll geotextiles.

The backfilling of the sand cushion is done - it is a layer of the order of 5 cm. Then a layer of crushed stone is placed - about 15-20 centimeters (fraction 8-32 mm). It is leveled by a given incline and moderately tampered. The slope should be at least 3 degrees, in practice, from 0.5 to 10 mm per meter of running pipe.

The next stage in the trench is lowering the pipes and fixing them to the collectors and wells, connecting the segments with each other. For connection, use fittings, couplings, or high-temperature welding.

Now the pipes and wells are covered with a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone and 5-10 centimeters of sand. Carefully fill the space along the sides of the drain.

Cover the top fill with geotextile.

We do backfilling of the soil, laying the turf.

For the possible carrying out of preventive works on every second (many experts recommend each) a sharp turn of the drain, an observation well is installed. Also it is recommended to use it every 50 meters in direct drainage areas.

In the place where the collector enters the collection well or reservoir, establish a check valve, which will prevent the water flow in the direction of the site, if suddenly for some reason the normal level will rise.

Care of the drainage system

Through the control wells, the system should be inspected periodically, especially after heavy showers and during active thawing of snow. Particular attention is paid to the presence of contaminants and a decrease in the speed of water flow, an increase in the level in the wells. If abnormalities are found, drainage must be cleaned.

The system is cleaned with water under pressure. The hose is put on the socket of the pump, the drains are introduced into the interior, it is advanced downward along the gradient. The procedure is repeated from different wells. Even if no problems are found, it is recommended to do a preventive cleaning of pipes and water wells every couple of years. Observation wells should be tightly closed with covers during the entire period of operation.

If the drainage of the site is properly designed and correctly assembled, the materials are correctly selected, then care for it will not cause much trouble, the system will serve both to you and your children without problems.

Turischev Anton, rmnt.ru

A lot of trouble to owners of suburban and suburban areas brings excessive humidity. The first signs of the phenomenon are stagnant puddles, which can "rejoice" their existence for several days, or even weeks. If you can reconcile with them, other manifestations of high humidity: soaking up plants and trees on the site, destroying the foundation of buildings, are far from being so harmless. If landownership is located in the lowland or the level of groundwater is high, do not despair, you need to drain the site with your own hands.

To remove excess moisture, a drainage system is used, which can be done in two ways. There are superficial and deep drainage. The former is used to divert water from the territory that accumulates after seasonal floods or heavy rainfall.

The second is designed to reduce soil moisture by groundwater abstraction. In general, the type of drainage is selected depending on the condition of the site and the requirements of its owner. Despite the significant difference between the types of drainage, each of them can be performed independently.

Design and construction of surface drainage

Surface drainage systems can be of two types: linear and point. The latter are intended for drainage of water from small isolated areas in the territory. Special water intakes of point drainage are placed in places of water accumulation. These can be plots under drains, in the lower part of terraces, in relief depressions, in entrance areas, etc. Such a system is considered to be the simplest and does not require the drawing up of a special scheme.

Water intakes of point drainage are located in places of water accumulation

More complicated in the design and installation is linear drainage. It is used to drain moisture from buildings, protect water from tracks, entrances, prevent flushing of the fertile soil layer on the site, etc. The design is a specially designed system of shallow trenches, laid at a certain angle, which runs along the perimeter of the site and the places of maximum accumulation of water.

Before the start of the work, a drainage project is prepared, which assumes the existence of a trench for collection of moisture draining into ditches. It should end in a water intake, in the role of which it is possible to speak storm water drain or a ravine. In the design process, it is necessary to consider all places of stagnation of moisture and to lay trenches from them to the main drainage.

It is also necessary to correctly calculate the slope of the structures, otherwise the water will not drain over them. The minimum slope of drains in sandy soils should be not less than 0,003, in clay - 0,002. The water intake is necessarily below the level of linear drainage. Practice shows that the best result is obtained with a slope ranging from 0.005 to 0.01. To equip the surface drainage of the site with your own hands, you can use two methods:

Open. Assumes the presence of open trenches, dug by the drainage scheme. The walls of structures are usually formed at an angle of 30 °, which allows water to flow into the ditch without any problems. The width of the structure is 0.5 m and the depth is 0.7 m. The main advantage of the system is its simplicity in execution. A serious disadvantage is the unaesthetic appearance, which spoils the impression of the site. In addition, the walls of the trench, which have not been fortified, are quickly crumbled and the structure becomes unfit for use.

Crushed rockfill prevents the destruction of the trench, but at the same time reduces its throughput

Important: To solve the problem of crumbling walls of the drainage trench, gravel bedding can be used. To do this, the lower part of the groove is covered with crushed stone, and the upper one is filled with a smaller fraction. Above, the structure can be covered with turf. Such a drainage device on the site prevents the soil from slipping and keeps the trench, but at the same time seriously reduces its throughput.

Closed. It consists in the use of special drainage trays, which are laid directly in the trench, and from above are closed by gratings. The structures protect the grooves from slipping of the ground, the grilles do not let the garbage get inside the drainage structure. Trays can be concrete, polymer-concrete or plastic, which are considered today the most popular due to their small weight and exceptional durability.

The grating covering the tray can be made of metal or plastic

Deep drainage system: design and installation details

Deep drainage is designed to reduce soil moisture. For the system to work effectively, it must be located below the level of occurrence of subsoil waters. Its definition will necessarily require the help of a specialist, since it is impossible to do this on your own. It is necessary to order the surveyors detailed plan of the site, on which the level of the aquifer should be marked, which will allow to accurately design the structure.

It happens that the drainage system on the site is needed only to ensure the vital activity of plants suffering from excessive moisture. In this case, you can use a simplified version of the calculation. To determine the depth of the drain, average values are used. Pipes can be located at a mark from 0.6 to 1.5 m. It is necessary to know that for fruit trees it will be 1.5, for forest trees - 0.9, for lawns, flower beds and flower beds - about 0.9 m. areas with peat soils need to equip deeper trenches, since such soils very quickly settle. The depth of the drainage will vary from 1 to 1.6 m.

To equip the drainage system use special pipes with perforation. Initially, asbestos-cement or ceramic constructions were used, which today gave way to plastic ones. Drains are pipes with a diameter of 50 to 200 mm, equipped with a network of holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Some models can be equipped with a special filtering shell, which prevents the penetration of debris into the holes. Plastic pipes durable, light, easy to pack.

In order to equip the deep drainage suburban area with their own hands, it is necessary first of all to draw up a project, which will reflect the depth of the drainage pipes and show where they will pass. As in the case of the surface drainage system, it is assumed that there is a trench trench collecting moisture from all secondary pipes and ending in a water intake: a gutter, a reservoir or a special storage well.

Perforated pipes for deep drainage are laid on a cushion of sand and gravel

During the installation of the drainage system, several stages are distinguished:

Equipment trenches. In the places marked in the project, we dig channels about 40 cm wide. The depth of the structure may vary, it depends on the groundwater level. At the bottom is laid out a sand cushion, and on it - a layer of rubble, on top of which is laid the drainage pipe. In some cases, it can be wrapped with geotextiles to protect the holes from possible clogging.

corrugated pipes

Often, the land allocated by the architectural department for the suburban area, does not meet the expectations of the owner. One of the most common problems is excessive soil moisture. The result is a poor growth of trees and various diseases of garden and garden plants. And this is not the only trouble, which is a consequence of the overmoistened soil.

Water, accumulating in the soil, leads to erosion of the foundation. Country house and other buildings on the land can begin to settle, and the cellar and basements each spring will be flooded. In addition, the wet ground when freezing rises and exerts pressure on the area around the buildings and garden paths, which leads to the formation of cracks.

There is a way out of this situation and it consists in the construction of a drainage system on the site. This task does not represent special complexity, and the whole complex of works will take no more than two weeks. And the time and energy spent will pay off - it will manage to avoid many troubles, increase the durability of buildings and provide a good harvest in the garden and the garden.

Without drainage systems can not do:

On sites with clay soil, where even a slight rain will lead to the appearance of long standing puddles.
On sites with a highly located horizon of groundwater.
On sites with a horizontal surface of the earth in the absence of runoff.
On the sites located at the foot of the slopes.

Types of drainage systems

Excess soil moisture in the suburban area can have two reasons. The first of these is a large amount of clay in the soil. Such a land poorly passes water, as a result of water from rain and melting snow accumulates and stagnates in the upper layer of the soil. Another reason is the proximity of ground water to the soil surface. These waters are a serious problem for the foundation of buildings and the basement, especially in the spring.

Based on the cause of high soil moisture, a suitable type of drainage system can be used to divert excess water. There are two main types of drainage systems - open and closed. The first of them can be used for clay soil - when it is enough to remove water from the surface layer. To extract the same groundwater, only closed drainage is applicable.

What is open drainage

An open or superficial drainage system can be created both according to a pre-designed project and without it. There are two ways to do open drainage:

local method
ditching system

The first method is the most simple version drainage system. In this case, water is not taken from the entire territory of the site as a whole, but only from those places that are flooded in spring, autumn or in prolonged rainy weather.

The first step in building open drainage is to identify places of greatest stagnation of water. In these places, water intake wells are torn out or digging into the ground of the tank for collecting water. The water accumulated there can be further watered with garden crops. Most of the water is collected in the following places:

at the lowest point of the site;
on areas with a shallow surface - for example, in front of the porch;
in depressions on the surface of the earth.

In the event that water accumulates at the boundary of the site, a ditch is being dug for draining water for its territory. If a place with excessive soil moisture is located in the depth of the site, then a drainage well is dug out.

Gutter Laying

This method of reclamation is also used in clay soil conditions. In this case, a network of gutters is created throughout the site. The water collected from the entire territory is channeled into the catchment well. The system of drainage ditches is constructed in accordance with the previously developed scheme.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
To ensure high-quality water disposal, when digging ditches should be observed slope in the direction of the catchment. In the presence of a natural bias, the bottom of the trench is made parallel to the earth's surface. If the surface of the land in the territory of the site is horizontal, then an artificial slope must be made. Otherwise, the ditches will stagnate.

The number of drainage channels is set in accordance with the level of soil moisture. The more clay in the soil, the more you need to dig trenches. The minimum depth of the ditch should be fifty centimeters. The width of the trench is determined by the distance from the water intake. The maximum width must have the ditch into which water flows from the entire network, and which directly flows into the water basin.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
After the trench network has been dug, it must be tested. To do this, it is necessary to artificially start up the flow of water. In those places where this flow is delayed, the slope of the ditch should be increased.

How is the drainage of a closed type

The closed drainage system can be tubular, or reservoir. The pipe drainage system consists of pipes laid in the ground at a certain depth, the value of which is determined by the density of the soil. The more loose the soil, the deeper it is necessary to lay pipes. To create closed drainage, special perforated pipes are used, in the holes of which water from the soil penetrates, which then flows down the drainage tunnel, the drainage tunnel, or the well of the stormwater.

In view of the fact that the laying of closed drainage is much more expensive than creating an open system, this method of reclamation justifies itself only when the boundary of groundwater flows closer than 2.5 meters from the surface of the earth.

Plastovaya drainage is a filter cushion of gravel, which is laid at the base of the structure.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
In a country with a rainy climate and frequent downpours it is necessary to equip combined version drainage - a combination of deep drainage system with livnevkoj. You can create both, and consisting of ditches.

Accessories for drainage systems

Before installing a drainage system, it is necessary to determine its type. The correct choice of type of drainage is determined by the specific local conditions. When the type of drainage system is selected, it is necessary to first develop a plan, determine what materials and in what quantities are needed for this, and calculate the construction budget.

Materials that will be needed for the construction of open drainage, depending on which version of the trench will be chosen - backfill or trough. For filling ditches, small and large gravel, as well as geotextiles, will be needed.

Tray trenches are more effective for water disposal. For their construction, already used trays are used, the material for which can be:

concrete;
concrete with polymer filler;
plastic.

The best option is plastic trays, which weigh a little and, at the same time, are strong enough.

When constructing closed type drainage, special pipes, geotextiles and crushed stone will be needed.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
The use of geotextiles in the construction of a drainage system is highly desirable - this material only passes through water and retains solid particles. Thus, it prevents the gradual filling of drainage with silt.

Regardless of which drainage system is being constructed, open or closed, you need to acquire a level and laser rangefinder to perform the work, which is necessary for studying the terrain of the site and drawing up the correct plan of the system. In order to comply with the desired bias when digging trenches and laying pipes, a level is needed. Without these tools, you can do only with the construction of local water catchments.

Drainage on the site with your own hands video

The order of performance of works at construction of drainage systems

In order to successfully build a drainage in the suburban area, you need to be guided by the following general considerations:

The construction of a closed drainage system requires a large amount of excavation. In this regard, to build drainage is necessary even before the site will be planted with trees, and even better - before the foundation of buildings is laid.
Before the work is started, it is necessary to make a detailed plan of the system. To do this, you need to study the terrain, determine the highest and the lowest point on the site, set the value of the required gradient.
When designing a closed system, it is necessary to include in the plan audit wells that provide the possibility of servicing the drainage system.
When laying a drainage pipeline, the recommended bias is from two to ten millimeters per meter of pipe.

How to build an open drainage system

The construction of an open drainage system is a much easier task than the laying of closed drainage, since it does not require the digging of deep trenches. When laying a network of trenches, a plan is first made for their location. Then a trench digger is produced. Usually the main ditches are laid along the perimeter of the site, and the auxiliary ditches are laid from the places of the greatest accumulation of water. In this case, the depth of the trench should be from fifty to seventy centimeters, width - about half a meter. Auxiliary trenches should go under the slope in the direction of the main ditches, and the main ones - under the slope towards the water basin. The walls of the trench must not be vertical, but beveled. The angle of inclination should be from twenty-five to thirty degrees.

The further course of work depends on which system is built, backfilling or trough. When building the backfilling system, the ditch is first covered with crushed stone - 2/3 of the depth is large, and then shallow. Above the gravel is laid sod. To prevent siltation of crushed stone, it is desirable to cover it with geotextile.

The construction of the drainage drain includes the following steps:

Laying trenches while observing the necessary gradient.
Fill the bottom of the ditch with a ten centimeter layer of sand, which must then be densely packed.
Installation of trays and sand catchers, which are plastic parts that prevent sand and debris from getting into the drainage, and thus protect the system from siltation.
Closure of ditches on top of the grilles, which prevent trash blockage from falling leaves and various debris, and also perform an aesthetic function.

How is the construction of closed drainage

The construction of a closed drainage system consists of the following steps:

Study of the terrain of the site using a leveling device and a laser range finder, and the construction of a drainage network plan. If there are no geodetic tools, you should wait for heavy rain and observe the flow of rainwater.
Trenching under the drainage pipeline.
Filling the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand from seven to ten centimeters thick with subsequent ramming.
Laying in a trench geotextile, with the edges of the fabric should protrude beyond the edges of the ditch.
Laying on top of the geotextile of a twenty-centimeter layer of crushed stone, which serves as a filter. In this case, it is impossible to use limestone crushed rock, since this can form a solonchak.
Pipe laying on a bed of gravel. In this case, their holes must be directed downward.
Adding rubble over the pipes and closing it from above with the edges of the geotextile cloth, which will filter out water from the suspended particles, thereby preventing siltation of the system.
Digging ditches with soil, on top of which you can lay the turf.

The drainage system must end with a water collection well, which must be excavated at the lowest point of the site. From this well, water can be diverted into a natural body of water, into a ravine or into a common stormwater, if it exists in a given locality.

Properly constructed drainage system will prevent problems associated with excessive dampness, because its construction is mandatory in areas with moist soil. And those owners of dachas who are not sure that they will cope with the construction of drainage themselves should consult specialists and pay the required amount, but one should not try to save on such an important functional element of the suburban area as drainage.

Well, that's it, guys - I hope I could give you an answer to the question: "How to make drainage on the site with your own hands." All the best!

Many beginning gardeners are sure that the more moist the soil in the garden, the better for plants. But, unfortunately, this is not entirely true. Yes, there are plants that love water and feel great where there are many. For example, currant, willow weeping, birch, bird cherry, sedge, white head, nettle and others. But for the majority of garden crops the excessive overmoistening of the soil is fatal. The wet earth becomes dense, completely does not let in air. This depresses the root system and the plants die. In addition, excess moisture significantly shortens the life of the foundation of the country house and other buildings, which leads to their rapid destruction. These and other problems can be avoided by making the drainage of the site with their own hands.

Drain or not

Question: "Do we need a drainage system for garden plot? »Always asks himself every owner of six hundred. The answer is easy to find, just a little observation. See which plants love your site. Must guard the thickets of willow, talnik, sedges. These are the "inhabitants" of wetlands.

Thickets of cattail talk about excess moisture

Another sign of waterlogging is puddles on the surface of the earth after heavy rain and a long "spring" - the garden dries after melting snow for several weeks. To check how close the groundwater is, one more simple way. Dig out a small pit, 50 cm deep. If within a day it is filled with water, drainage of the suburban area is necessary, especially if there are no slopes in the garden.

Types of drainage systems

All drainage systems are divided into two groups: surface and deep. Surface ones are designed for abstraction of thawed and rainwater, deep - change the level of groundwater.

Before proceeding with construction work, you should order a drainage project of the site. Drainage is a rather complex engineering structure - a system of pipes or trenches connected to each other and located along the perimeter of the site or on its territory. Specialists will perform a drawing of the location of drains, a diagram of the vertical section of the drain, the flow of water in the system, calculate how much and what materials will be needed to create the drainage. After receiving the project documentation, it is possible to start the drainage device on the site.

How to make surface drainage

This is the most technically simple system. Its main role - the removal of excess moisture in the melting snow and torrential rains.

Sequence of work:

Drainage trenches must be decorated

How to equip deep drainage

With its help, you will perform drainage of the site - drainage will protect the basements of the garden structures from underflooding, change the water table and create favorable conditions for the growth of fruit trees in your garden. Starting construction, it should be noted that deep drainage will require serious financial investments.

Deep drainage can be done by own hands

Sequence of work:

Drainage for dry paths

The garden paths are something without which it is impossible to imagine a summer residence. At the same time, I want them to remain dry even in the rainiest summer. For this, it is worthwhile to work hard and make good drainage. At the site of future tracks, dig a trench 60 cm deep. At the bottom, we pour large sand, carefully compact it, do not forget about the slope for water drainage. Then lay the stones, broken bricks and other large building debris. Top with large sand. After a while, pour the sand where necessary. We will bridge the path using wooden flooring, paving stones, decorative rock, or we return to the place a fertile layer and sow the lawn grass, resistant to trampling. Such tracks will always be dry. Water will seep into them, as through a sieve. The only "drawback": to transfer them to another place is almost impossible. Therefore, it is necessary to build only if you clearly know that the path is needed in this place and this form.

As you can see, the question of how to make drainage on the site is not so difficult to solve. However, at the planning stage, you must always turn to hydrogeological engineers or surveyors. It is not worth saving on their services. Incorrectly executed drainage can lead to the death of the site: the soil will be over-dried and unfit for cultivation of garden crops.

Excessive humidity of the site is a nuisance, which causes a lot of trouble. The over-saturated moisture gut is destructive not only for green plantations, but also for foundations of buildings. The only way to fix the problem is to equip the site with drainage. Consider what options for draining the soil can be applied and how to properly drainage on the site with their own hands.

The main reasons for the increased moisture saturation of the ground are the high level of groundwater occurrence and the location of the site in the immediate vicinity of the natural reservoir or in the lowland. Poorly flowing moisture is also clay soil.

The arrangement of drainage involves the laying of a common drainage system

To remove excess moisture from the site install drainage systems. They come in two types:

surface - designed to divert water accumulated after heavy rainfall or seasonal floods;
depth - designed to reduce the level of soil moisture by withdrawing beyond the territory of groundwater.

Common Moments: How to Make a Drainage Site with Your Own Hands

Construction of surface drainage by one's own hands

The system of surface drainage is of two types:

linear - to remove moisture from the surface of the entire territory (from buildings, garden paths, garden plots);
point - to drain accumulated water from small local areas;

When settling point drainage, water intakes are placed only in places of water accumulation: in access areas, in the lower part of terraces, under drains, etc.

A more complex design is represented by linear type drains. For the arrangement of such systems, it is necessary to compile schemes for the removal of all lines corresponding to the parameters of the site. The system, which looks like a channel, is placed in such a way that it has a slope towards the drainage well.

Create a lay plan

First of all, it is necessary to determine the direction in which water flows during heavy rainfall. Having determined the direction of the flows, they form the scheme for laying the drainage system.

Surface drainage of the linear type is a system of shallow drainage ditches. The pipeline, laid in trenches at a certain angle, runs along the entire perimeter of the site, including places of maximum accumulation of moisture.

In areas with hilly terrain, the ditches are projected across the slope to intercept the flow of water draining from above. Collected from the transverse ditches, water is sent to the ditches that run longitudinally, and is collected in a drainage pit.

When drafting a drainage project, the sites are noted:

Locations of the central highway.
Drainage - "sleeves", departing from the main to the places of stagnation of moisture.
Points of supply of water receivers.

The water inlet with a grate can be made of steel or polymeric materials. The main thing is that the construction was functional and of high quality: near the buildings it did not interfere with pedestrians, and in the area of access roads it could withstand the weight of the car.

Attention! Marking "A" indicates that the drainage structure is intended for use in pedestrian areas, "E" - is able to withstand the weight of the car.

The final point of the system is a drainage well. It is a container buried in the soil for 1-1.5 meters.

Ditching out ditches

Drainage trenches can be open or closed type.

When installing open trenches along the contour of the marked areas, ditches with a depth of 70 cm and a width of 50 cm are dug out. The walls of the ditches are made oblique at an angle of 30 °, so that the water freely flows along them, leaving the boundaries of the plot.

To check the functioning of the system, water is poured into the grooves and observed where it leaves, and whether it stays on the route. In case of detection of defects, defects are eliminated.

For all the simplicity of the structure, it is not without flaws. Thus, the unfortified walls of the ditches quickly crumble, slowing the evacuation of storm water and thus disabling the system.

Tip: To prevent clogging of the sump with fine debris, install a mechanical strainer at the inlet.

Arrangement of closed trenches involves the installation of special trays

The trays are laid directly in the ditches, and the top is covered with bars. Gathering on the trays water flows into one drain, often equipping one common drain for several sites.

Depending on the material of the manufacture, drainage trays can be:

plastic;
polymeric;
concrete.

Drainage trenches of the closed type are less vulnerable to displacement of the upper layer of the ground, and the gratings laid on top prevent clogging of the system.

Options for decorating drains

A significant disadvantage of open trenches is a high probability of shedding and an unattractive appearance. This problem can be solved by making a crushed stone from the top. To do this, the lower part of the ditch is sprinkled with crushed stone of a coarse fraction, and the top layer is laid out finely fractional.

Crushed stone addition to the decorative function will prevent the destruction of the trench

Attention! Please note that the layer of rubble will worsen the capacity of the system.

Well-proven method of filling the ditch with coniferous or birch brushwood. To do this, along the entire length of the trench at equidistant distances have crossed pegs. From the twigs form bundles with a thickness of 300 mm, placing the branches thicker on one side, and thin shoots on the other. Formed bundles spread on the support of pegs, placing thick branches up. The sides of the stacked beams are lined with moss. Judging by the responses of the owners who have already tested this option on their sites, such a drainage can last more than 10 years.

Arrangement of deep drainage system

To reduce the level of humidity within the entire plot is impossible without the arrangement of a deep drainage system. For the construction of the structure, a network of ground drainage pipes is used, which drain water into special wells. Pipeline is better to lay even at the stage of building a house.

Designing a structure

To the design stage is to take with all responsibility. Wrong planning of the system will not prevent the penetration of moisture into the basement.

When drawing up a plan and determining the diameter of the corrugation, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors:

the horizon of occurrence of groundwater in different seasons;
soil structure and soil characteristics;
volume of moisture, including atmospheric precipitation and flood waters.

The necessary information can be obtained from the regional department of land resources.

The drains can be drained into the rainwater drainage system or the nearby water body

In both cases, the ends of the discharge pipes equip check valves. For lack of an opportunity to provide such a conclusion, a well should be installed at the bottom of the site. It is a container buried in the soil, which performs two tasks:

Accumulates flood water.
It facilitates the control over the serviceability of the system.

Ready-made structures can be purchased at a specialized store. They are made of polymer materials. If you want, you can build a storage tank yourself by installing reinforced concrete rings.

Digging trenches and ditch under the well

According to the drawn up scheme, mark out the territory, then proceed to dig trenches. The depth of the ditches depends on the structure of the soil and can vary within the range of 60-80 cm. But it should be 20-30 cm below the mark on which it is planned to lay the main line.

In order for the system to work properly, drains should be laid below the freezing level of the soil

The width of the recesses is determined from the value of the outer diameter of the corrugation, to which another 40 cm is added.

An important point! For drainage of a site located on peat soils that quickly sag, it is better to construct trenches with a depth of at least 1 meter.

Digging trenches is most convenient, using bayonet and half-mounted shovels, equipped with elongated cuttings. For this purpose it is convenient to use sapper shovels of the type BSL-110.

The size of the pit under the well depends on the dimensions of the installed capacity. The bottom and walls of excavated trenches and foundation pit under the well are leveled and tamped. Above, a layer of sand is covered, forming a "pillow" 10 cm thick. The second layer is lined with rubble.

Piping installation

To drain the soil, double-ply corrugated PVC pipes with a diameter of 63 mm or 100 mm. They have along the entire length of special holes D from 0,15 mm to 0,5 mm and equipped with a filtering shell, the main task of which is to prevent clogging of the structure. Corrugated tubes are sold for a yardstick, so with a competent calculation, you can minimize the number of interfaces and connections.

Advice: when deep drainage is being constructed, it is not worth saving by using old ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes. Such materials need frequent washing, which is rather problematic when the installation method is closed.

Pipes of the necessary length are laid on a pre-leveled crushed stone dump. When laying the drain it is important to maintain a tilt angle of 3 °, each time checking it with a construction level. The connection of pipe sections is carried out by means of special couplings of the appropriate size.

In sections with a change in the angle of inclination and at the turning points of the main line, manhole outfits are equipped.

Inspection wells are necessary to monitor the functioning of the system, if necessary, clean the line

The ditch with the pipe laid in it is half poured with crushed stone. The remaining half are covered with fertile soil.

At the final stage of installation, install a well, placing it at the lowest point of the site. The well is buried half a meter below the supply pipes. Water from a storage well is always useful for watering plants, filling a decorative pond and in case of a fire. For evacuation of excess liquid, an outgoing pipe is fed to it and a pump is connected.

An important disadvantage of backfilling drainage is that it is silted. To prevent this, prolonging the life of the structure, it is possible by creating an additional filtering layer. To filter sand and soil particles, the pipes are wrapped with geotextile or coconut cloth. The material absorbs moisture well and at the same time serves as a filter that delays fine fractional debris.

On sale, you can already find ready-made drainage blocks. They are perforated polymer pipes, the outer walls of which are covered with a geosynthetic canvas. The diameter of the drainage pipe is 50 mm and 110 mm, and the finished block, respectively, 15 mm and 30 mm.

To completely protect the site from moisture, experts recommend installing surface and deep drainage. Subsequently, the maintenance of such a system consists only in the periodic cleaning of the water intake and the control of the water level in the drainage well.