Hello, dear readers! In this article, I decided to use previously published information and online payments For calculation of a canopy made of metal structures.
A carport can be used for a variety of purposes, but let it be a carport.
Initial data:
- construction city - Grodno ( - Republic of Belarus, Grodno region)
- size in plan 3x6 meters
- load-bearing structures (stand - profile pipe, beam - I-beam, purlins - channel)
- height to the bottom of the beam – 2.7 meters
- roof slope – 10%
- roofing material – corrugated sheet NS35x1000x0.5 (weight 1 m2 – 5.4 kg)
- steel class C255
So, our main task is- this is to determine the cross-sectional size of our load-bearing structures. We will collect loads for each structure and calculate them separately. We will calculate from top to bottom, i.e. immediately purlins, then beams and racks. This is done so that when calculating the racks we already know the weight of the overlying structures (beams and purlins).
Calculation of runs
The run will be calculated on strength and deflection
To calculate the runs we will need to know the linear uniform distributed load on it and the calculation diagram.
The purlin will be welded to the beam at the place of installation, which means that it will be a hinged connection and design scheme respectively, “hinge-hinge”.
The purlin will be subject to loads from the weight of the corrugated sheet, the purlin’s own weight and the snow load.
The figure shows the load area of the calculated run.
In order for the load to square meter convert to linear, we will need to multiply it by the width of the cargo area. = 5.4 kg/m2 * 1.003 m = 5.42 kg/m
To obtain the design load, we multiply the standard load by the safety factor for the load (for metal structures it is equal to 1.05). = 5.42 kg/m * 1.05 = 5.69 kg/m
Then, in the same way, we find the calculated linear load from snow (reliability factor for snow load 1.4):
50 kg/m2 * 1.003 m * 1.4 = 70.21 kg/m
The final value of the linear load will be as follows:
5.69 kg/m + 70.21 kg/m = 75.9 kg/m
Then, selecting one or another section with a small margin (the online calculation already includes the load from the structure’s own weight).
As a result of our strength calculations, we got channel No. 5P according to GOST 8240-89.
Now let's calculate this deflection run. Looking at SP 20.13330.2016 “Loads and impacts”, we see that the maximum deflection for our 3-meter run is calculated as l/150=3000/150=20 mm.
Substituting all the found values into the deflection calculator, we see that the deflection turned out to be 18.9 mm and it is no more than our maximum permissible deflection of 20 mm.
So we conclude that a run of 5 channels suits us both in terms of strength and deflection.
I-beam calculation
We will calculate the beam that lies on axis 2, because its load area, and, consequently, its load will be the largest.
The beam will rest on the plate at the end of the rack. The trim is welded to the post, and the beam will be welded to the trim. This means that the support is again hinged and the calculation scheme is “hinge-hinge”.
Loads that will act on the beam:
- snow load = 50 kg/m2 * 3 m * 1.4 = 210 kg/m
- load from the profiled sheet = 5.4 kg/m2 * 3 m * 1.05 = 17.01 kg/m
- load from the weight of the purlins (12 meters of purlins fall into the cargo area, the mass of one meter is 8.59 kg) = 12 m * 8.59 kg/m * 1.05 = 108.23 kg. We write this load as linearly distributed over 3 meters : 108.23 kg / 3 m = 36.08 kg/m.
- load from the beam’s own weight (taken into account in the online calculation)
The final load on the beam will be:
210 kg/m + 17.01 kg/m + 36.08 kg/m = 263.09 kg/m
Next, we again select the section according to ours:
According to the calculations, we see that this beam has a good margin of strength. Now let’s calculate it for deflection (the maximum permissible deflection for a beam equal to 3 m is again 3000/150 = 20 mm).
Based on two calculations, it is clear that beam 10B1 passes with a good margin. In general, the cross section can be reduced, but let’s leave this beam as an example
The result is an I-beam No. 10B1 according to STO ASChM 20-93.
Calculation of the rack from profile pipe
From all racks we will calculate the most unfavorable one (the highest and the most loaded). This will be rack 2-B. Its height will be 2700 mm, and the cargo area will be 3 m * 1.5 m = 4.5 m2.
This cargo area will be subject to concentrated design loads from:
- profiled sheet = 5.4 kg/m2 * 4.5 m2 * 1.05 = 25.52 kg
- masses of purlins = 6 m * 8.59 kg/m * 1.05 = 54.12 kg (6 meters of purlins fall into the cargo area)
- the mass of the beam (it can be calculated in, taking into account the fact that 1.5 meters of the beam falls into the load area) = 11.92 kg * 1.05 = 12.52 kg
- snow load = 50 kg/m2 * 4.5 m2 * 1.4 = 315 kg
- load from the stand’s own weight (let’s take 3% of the total load on the stand)
The final load on the rack will be as follows:
(25.52 kg + 54.12 kg + 12.52 kg + 315 kg) * 1.03 = 419.4 kg
Let's convert to kilonewtons: 419.4 kg * 10 N/kg /1000 = 4.194 kN.
From below, the post is welded to a plate, which is attached to the concrete with 4 anchors, so the connection will be hinged, and on top, as we have already found out, there is also a hinged connection to the beam. This means that the design scheme will be “hinge-hinge”.
Next, on ours, we will calculate the cross-section of a rack made of a profile pipe, for example, 40x1.5:
Based on the calculations, it is clear that the 40x1.5 rack does not pass flexibility (flexibility formula = design_length / radius of inertia), which means it is necessary to either reduce the design lengths of the rack by adding connections in two planes, or increase the radius of gyration by increasing the cross section. We will increase cross section up to 50x2.
As can be seen in the figure, accepted profile pipe section 50x50 and wall thickness 2 mm.
Spatial rigidity
Even if our frame will not be sheathed on all sides, and, therefore, will not significant wind loads, then we still have to take care of spatial rigidity of the canopy.
To do this, we will place connections in both directions from a profile pipe (the same as was used for the racks). There will be a cross connection along axes A and B, and along axes 1, 2 and 3 we will install a horizontal connection for normal vehicle passage.
To make many calculations easier to understand, we have neglected the following:
1. Wind load: if there is no lining of the canopy on the sides, the wind load will act only on the roof of the canopy, but with a slight slope it will be insignificant.
2. When calculating the purlins and beams for deflection, it was necessary to set the standard load, but the calculated load will not be worse.
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A roof over a car can protect it from adverse conditions. In urban areas, a garage is used for this. At the dacha, to equip a temporary parking place for a car, it is more advisable to use a canopy. Constructing a carport from a profile pipe is a cheaper alternative to a garage. The shelter can be used for an outdoor picnic when there is no car.
The main purpose of the canopy is to protect the area underneath from precipitation. He must withstand a pile of snow and gusts of wind. The structure must not fall and damage the vehicle or people underneath it. The profile pipe meets the requirements.
Its advantages include:
- variety of shapes and sections. The most common is square and rectangular pipe. This form has additional stiffening ribs;
- heat treatment – increases strength and durability of use without deformation of the pipe cut;
- ability to bend under different angles without loss of strength;
- fastening with bolts, clamps and welding;
- creation of stationary and collapsible structures;
- aesthetic appeal of the finished structure.
Canopy design
Despite the availability of ready-made drawings, the construction of any canopy from a profile pipe must begin with design. This will allow you to see appearance structure before its construction, calculate the cost, required material, prepare tools and check the strength of the structure.
As an alternative to a garage, you can build a lean-to or gable shed. The arched one looks more elegant, but it is more difficult to manufacture. Both free-standing structures and those adjacent to the building are considered.
Material selection
The supports bear the main weight of the structure, and snow and gusts of wind put pressure on the roof. The carport for one car has standard dimensions of 6x4 meters. For such an area, 6-8 supports are enough. A profile pipe with a wall thickness of 2 millimeters is suitable for the design. It is enough to avoid deformation of the product.
To make a canopy you will need:
- square profile measuring 5-10 centimeters. The best option 60x60 or 80x80 millimeters. Required for vertical supports;
- profile pipe rectangular section 40x20 millimeters for making trusses - an additional structure that distributes the weight of the roof onto the supports.
In addition to pipes, you need roofing material and fasteners: clamps, special bolts. To prepare the foundation, a cement-sand mixture is used.
Necessary tool
To assemble the canopy you will need:
- building level or rule;
- roulette;
- drill;
- welding machine.
For the foundation, you may additionally need shovels, a concrete mixer and other tools, depending on its type.
Drawings and material calculations
Before purchasing the material, a detailed drawing of the future canopy is drawn. It indicates mounting locations and types of profiles. The drawing is made to scale. It can be developed based on other people's ready-made structures. The main rule is that the step between supports is no more than 1.5 meters.
Depending on the type of planned structure, roofs are made rectangular, arched, triangular and other shapes. Inclined stiffening ribs are installed in them in increments of 1 meter.
Based on the finished drawing, it is easy to calculate how much material is required, including for fasteners. It is advisable to make the structure welded, but if there is no experience working with the apparatus, then it is permissible to make connections with bolts. The main thing is that they are longer than the cross-section of the pipe.
Attention! General rule purchases of materials: calculate the exact quantity and add 5%. This way you can avoid the problem of purchasing missing parts in case of manufacturing defects or manufacturing errors.
It is important, when creating a drawing, to provide for the slope of the roof. According to regulatory requirements, a tilt angle of 15-22 ° is permissible for regions with not very snowy winters, but with winds. An angle of 22-30° will protect the roof from snow accumulation. Ideally, the canopy will withstand even 400 kilograms of snow.
Foundation
Before erecting the canopy, prepare the installation site. It can be just a flat area or it can be rolled up with asphalt and tiles laid out on top. If the site is simply leveled, then the grass is carefully removed. For asphalting or under tiles, 0.3 meters of soil is removed from the entire area. Agrofabric is placed on the bottom to protect against plant germination. A layer of sand is poured on top and compacted thoroughly. Next, crushed stone is poured. Sand is again poured under the tiles, and crushed stone is prepared for asphalting.
It is necessary to make sure that cables, pipes and other communications do not pass under the site. If they break, you will have to dismantle the canopy and then install it again.
Holes 0.8 meters deep are dug around the perimeter. Sand is poured to the bottom, and then crushed stone. Install supports. It is necessary to carefully ensure that they stand vertically, without slope. To fix them, fill the hole with cement. It takes about an hour and a half to align them vertically. Next, the supports are left until the mixture hardens.
There is a second way to attach them. Cut profile pipes are used as support pipes, onto the upper end of which a large square platform is welded. They are completely cemented in the ground. A square is also welded onto the other outer part of the vertical support. The platforms are bolted to each other. With this connection it is much easier to ensure the verticality of the racks.
If groundwater They come close enough to the surface and install pipes around the perimeter. Provide drainage system. It is advisable not to choose a low-lying area for the site where melt water accumulates.
Frame assembly
After installing the vertical supports, proceed to assembling the canopy:
- First, the support pillars are leveled to the same level.
- Strengthen the perimeter. To do this, short sections are welded first, and then long sections. Before welding, the pipe section is grabbed at one point and secured with a clamp so that nothing moves during welding.
- Trusses from professional pipes are assembled on the ground exactly according to the drawing. Holes are drilled on them for roof fasteners.
- Using a crane or other method, they are raised to the desired height and secured.
- Additionally, the roof support is reinforced with inclined beams.
As an alternative, truss welding can be done immediately at height. But this makes it more difficult to maintain the verticality of the structure.
After completing the welding work, all seams are cleaned of slag with a grinder. When cracks appear, they are further strengthened with steel plates. All joints are carefully painted and varnished. These areas are the most susceptible to corrosion.
Canopy roof
The canopy canopy is made from:
- slate. Easy to install, but weighs a lot and requires careful calculation of the load on the trusses. Available in a small range of colors;
- corrugated sheets It costs more, but comes in a wide range. It is chosen not only for parking lots, but also for outbuildings;
- cellular polycarbonate. It's not expensive, it lets you through sunlight, aesthetically attractive. Not very suitable for a car, since, due to the greenhouse effect it creates, the car will be in sunny days heat.
The choice of a specific roof depends on the wishes of the canopy owner. Each type has its own way of attaching them.
Price
Installation work is carried out independently. The main expenses go towards renting or purchasing equipment, materials and their delivery to the assembly site. If we focus on factory canopies, then the average price per square meter of canopy is cellular polycarbonate for roofing – 2500 rubles.
A more accurate calculation is made after the amount of materials has been calculated. Pipes are sold both by the meter and by the ton.
Does your car still freeze in the bitter cold, rust and become covered with a crust of ice when frost sets in? Then we go to you! Now we will look at how to do metal canopy for your car and protect it from exposure to precipitation, ultraviolet radiation, branches and anything that might fall from the sky.
Is it expensive? The materials will only cost a couple of thousand rubles, but as a result you get a neat canopy on a metal frame that will last for decades and, if necessary, can be easily dismantled and moved around the yard. We bring to your attention step-by-step instructions, using which you can build a canopy yourself quickly and quite successfully, even if you do not have special construction skills.
Preparatory work for installing a lean-to metal canopy
We could also consider gable structures, but the purpose of this particular article is to make an extremely practical, simple and cheap canopy with a metal frame, so we chose a lean-to structure. Make it 2 times faster, since there is no need for bent trusses, docking roofing material in the center and 30% less materials will be used. Let's look at all the instructions step by step and start with preparatory work.
STEP 1 : choosing a place for a lean-to canopy. You can build wherever there is space, but it is better to choose a small hill in the yard and a place with shallow clay so that water after rain does not accumulate under the canopy, and you can spend a minimum of money on installing concrete under the supports. Feng Shui lovers are not welcome here, since the main thing here is practicality.
STEP 2: selection of materials. We have already chosen it. Our supports will be made of a metal square 40x40 mm, we selected it taking into account the load of the structure and the possible wind load of 4%, and we also did not forget about precipitation for the harsh climate zone. The supports are designed for a metal canopy with a slope of 15-20% and dimensions of 4x4 meters. The roof can be made of polycarbonate, but we still preferred metal sheeting because it is inexpensive and easy to work with. 
STEP 3: clearing the area
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We will use a concrete floor for the car, so the area needs to be planned and about 10 cm of earth removed to be filled with slag and a screed of at least 5 cm thick to be installed. This is a lot, quite enough for a heavy SUV (within reason, up to 2500 kg). If you want to buy a hummer or tractor in the future, then your screed depth will be at least 12 centimeters. 
STEP 4: we calculate communications
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Yes, you heard it right, there will be more communications around the canopy. For what? It's simple. Firstly, water will not wash it away, it will not flow under the canopy, and secondly, it just looks cool and is inexpensive. These will be low tides in the ground and drainage systems. In addition, it is necessary to supply electricity to the canopy just in case of a fire (suddenly there is no place to barbecue or you need to warm up the car) and make future wire leads from under the screed or along the supports. 
Metal carports can be different sizes, you can make it just for a car, or you can create a parking lot for 3-4 spaces (suddenly your mother-in-law comes to visit or former classmates), it’s better to think about this in advance, since expansion will be problematic. At the very least, you need to pour the foundation and supports immediately for the size of the canopy you have chosen and start manufacturing after the calculations. Look like that's it. Now we have prepared the site, gathered ourselves mentally and took courage - we can go build.
We install metal poles for the canopy and sheathing
Making the frame is the hardest part, since installing the roof and decorating it is already a piece of cake and even a child can do it. But the frame must be made carefully, do not be lazy, use a level and often check the correctness of the work. If you install the supports or screed unevenly, then it will be possible to correct it, of course, but it will take a lot of time and effort, because it will almost completely redo everything. Let's look at how to make a metal canopy with your own hands according to GOST in detailed instructions.
STEP 1: install supports
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There are about dozens different methods installation of supports, but we won’t bother with the lower straps, we’ll just make a 40-50 centimeter depression in the ground with a drill or shovel, put a metal profile in the center and fill it with concrete - the support is ready. Here it is important to install the supports vertically, measure everything with a level so that they are in the same plane. We make a 1:3 concrete solution. 
STEP 2: top harness.
But you need to tie the supports at the top, since their height will be 270 centimeters above the ground and 240 cm, respectively, on the other side, where there will be a slope (we chose exactly this height), they may deviate slightly. Therefore, at the top along the perimeter it is necessary to weld a metal profiled pipe, the length of which will be equal to the length of one side (we took the dimensions of the canopy 4x4 meters as a template). 
STEP 3: sheathing.
Since metal canopies are pitched roof do not require bent elements or joints in the middle; making the sheathing is as easy as shelling pears. It is necessary to weld a metal pipe every 60 centimeters between the sides of the canopy with a height of 270 and 240 cm to form a slope. We will get about a 20% slope, even a little less - this is quite enough for the metal frame of the canopy to successfully cope with any amount of precipitation. 
Now all that remains is to screw the roofing material. The frame will cost only 3,500 rubles, you can still save money by installing jumpers every 80 centimeters, instead of 60 cm as we did, but it’s better to have a margin of safety, you can lighten the structure only if the carport is located in a cozy place in the yard and not exposed to strong winds.
Selecting and attaching the roof to a metal carport
As we said earlier, you can lighten the structure and attach polycarbonate to the roof, but this will not be very rational from an economical point of view. It is best to make a single-pitched metal canopy from corrugated sheets. In addition, there is no need to bend it, straighten it, put tricky washers in it, and it’s not scary to tighten it a little. Installing it is easier than a steamed turnip, let's look at the step-by-step instructions:
STEP 1: drill holes
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Need to raise a metal sheet and make holes in it at the level metal beam, which connects the sides of the canopy. This can be done simply: place the sheet on the beam, mark from below with a marker where the holes need to be made, remove and drill them. Holes every 35 centimeters. 
STEP 2: drilling out a metal carport
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Holes can be made either in advance in marked places, or when the sheet is already applied to the frame and a jumper can be drilled through the hole on the corrugated sheet. It is necessary to use special screws with sealing caps so that the screwing points do not rust. You can use plastic washers for work, it is convenient and cheap. 
STEP 3: processing with protective materials.
It is better to use deep impregnations for metal and varnishes so that our work lasts for many years. When using varnish, metal awnings for summer cottages last at least 2 times longer, since even the high acidity of precipitation does not cause corrosive processes. 
We looked at how to make a metal canopy without the help of a specialized team, but we also suggest watching a video on how to properly screw corrugated sheeting to a metal frame to avoid mistakes:
Absolutely any owner of a cottage or country house is faced with the need to arrange a canopy for his iron friend. This circumstance is due primarily to the versatility of the design, since it can be used not only for a car, but also for storing garden supplies and small technical devices. In addition to this, this building becomes of great relevance when it is necessary to park vehicle for a small amount of time. In this article we will tell you how to make a metal carport with your own hands, we will provide step by step instructions, photos and video materials.
Before execution construction work it is necessary to determine the future location of the canopy, its style, and decide on the purpose and type of structure to be erected. In addition, it is worth making a choice between a stationary and mobile type.
The advantages of a stationary building are practicality and durability, and a movable one is mobility. However, a movable canopy requires the manufacture of a strong frame, so it is built in in rare cases when it is necessary to temporarily protect the car from precipitation, direct sunlight and dust.
According to the type of placement, canopies can be free-standing or built as an extension. Attached structures form a single structure with a nearby building and are often united by a common roof.
The roof of a free-standing canopy can be domed, arched, arched, pitched or gable.
Ordinary metal or profile pipes, brick and wood can be used as support pillars. At the same time, roofing materials also abound in variety: corrugated sheets, natural tiles, polycarbonate, metal tiles, etc.
The type of canopy and material determine the complexity and duration of installation of the structure. As a rule, for simpler and more economical assembly, metal profiles and corrugated sheets are used. The thickness of the pillars and ceilings is selected depending on the size of the structure and the expected load.
To successfully complete the task, it is necessary to draw up a rough sketch of the future canopy, prepare tools, purchase consumables and accessories. Required tools:
- building level and tape measure;
- grinder or saw for cutting metal;
- drill with a hammer drill and a set of drills and bits;
- riveter;
- metal screws or rivets.
A complete and objective assessment of the quantity depends on a clear drawing up of the drawing. consumables, as well as the required volume of fastening devices, so the preparation of this document should be taken into account special attention. In addition, do not forget about safety precautions when working with metal products.
When starting work, it is worth preparing the site for the structure. To do this, according to the drawn up sketch, we level and compact the earth at the site of the proposed construction. Then we dig holes around the perimeter for support pillars with a depth of 50 to 100 cm. The recesses are equipped in such a way that a rectangle is obtained, usually in two rows of 2-3 holes.
The metal profile should be cut according to the number of support posts; their length should be 3 m. Depending on the type of structure you choose, the method of attaching the posts is determined. When constructing a stationary canopy, the supports are leveled and concreted, but when constructing a mobile analogue, additional cutting is required metal pipes with a diameter slightly larger than that of the support pipe and a length equal to the depth of the foundation. Prepared metal sections are mounted in pits and poured cement mortar. Then a profile is inserted into each of the pipe scraps. Holes are drilled in the pipe and profile and the entire support is bolted together.
To add rigidity and prevent premature destruction, you can use the described protective “casings” when arranging a stationary structure. The only difference from mobile awnings will be that the profile must be welded to a metal pipe.
Roofs are either solid or collapsible. Their main difference lies in the method of fastening the elements to each other: in the first case, the components are welded, and in the second, they are bolted together. In addition, structures are single-pitch and gable.
Using the example of a non-separable gable roof Let's look at the technology of its installation. TO support pillars you will need to weld pieces of a metal profile so that you get a regular rectangular frame. Then, we proceed to welding the rafters. On the ground, we weld pieces of a metal profile to the beam on one side and the other in increments of 1 m at an angle of no more than 30º. It is important to consider that the resulting structure should protrude somewhat beyond the welded upper frame. Next, we place the welded elements on the support rectangle and weld them at the joints.
To simplify the procedure for constructing a roof frame, the metal rectangular base located on supports should be strengthened, cross beams in the center of each side. Then we weld 20–30 cm sections of profile pipe to the central safety beam, which will act as a support for the future skate. Next, we use pipes from the profile to fasten the extended sections to each other and to the rectangular base.
Having finished installing the frame, we proceed to covering it with corrugated sheets. The sheets are fastened directly to the prepared frame on the rafters, overlapping each other using rivets, self-tapping screws or bolts.
At self-production carport, it is important to follow the instructions and observe the dimensions of the component elements reflected in the prepared drawings based on accurate calculations. All these conditions, combined with the right approach and due diligence, will allow you to build a quality metal shed.
Video
This video explains in more detail the intricacies of making a metal canopy:
Photo
In the photographs you can see various options for arranging a metal canopy:
Scheme
If you decide to make a metal canopy, then the provided diagram can help you in making a design suitable for you:
Today, a canopy made from a profile pipe can be found in literally every yard. This can be either a small canopy over the porch or a spacious covered parking lot for several cars.
Popularity of this building material It’s clear - the structures turn out beautiful, strong, and the work on their construction takes very little time. In this article we will cover the main issues regarding the design of a canopy made from a profile pipe.
Canopy made from corrugated pipe: calculation, drawings, construction and types of fastenings
Special attention when making calculations requires large canopies - for a car, a swimming pool, a recreation area, etc. Small canopies for lean-to sheds You can do it yourself without taking into account SNiP.
How to calculate a canopy, drawings
The calculation of a polycarbonate canopy made from a profile pipe begins with creating a sketch. It reflects the desired type of construction and finishing, as well as approximate dimensions. We determine the exact parameters only after going to the site of the future location of the structure - we take measurements construction site and the walls of the house, if the canopy frame from a profile pipe is attached. The sketch can be made either manually or using a special program.
Making a canopy from square pipe do it yourself: sketch made in a computer program
Initial data for calculations: the house is 9 x 6 m, there is a free area (9 x 7 m) in front of its free side.
- The canopy can be made the width of the entire wall of the house - 9 m, let the overhang be a meter shorter than the site - 6 m. We get a structure 6 x 9 m.
- The optimal height of the low edge is 2.4 m, the high edge is raised to 3.5 or 3.6 m.
- Based on the difference in height of the slope, we calculate its angle of inclination - it turns out to be 12 - 13 degrees.
- We look at the wind and snow maps of our area and calculate the probable loads from them.
- Based on the obtained figures, we select materials and proceed to drawing up a drawing of a canopy from a profile pipe.
Separately, you need to make separate drawings for roof trusses. Several of their options are shown in the following figure.
Making trusses from profile pipes for a canopy: diagrams different types designs
Note: SNiP allows you to calculate a truss from a profile pipe for a canopy with a slope of 6 degrees. However, it is better to start from at least 8 degrees. This is due to the fact that a small slope in winter will create the problem of snow accumulation on the roof surface.
Drawing with dimensions
The process of making a canopy from a profile pipe
Making a small wall canopy from pipes is not at all difficult. We begin design calculations and selection of suitable materials. This process is described in the previous and next paragraphs. Next, according to the drawing, we mark the working site, or rather the location of the foundation pits on it.
- We dig holes to the required depth.
- Place a layer of crushed stone at the bottom.
- We install embedded parts vertically into the holes.
- Fill the hole with cement-sand-gravel mortar.
We weld squares of steel onto the lower ends of the racks, the size exactly matching the areas of the embedded parts. The bolt holes must also match. After the foundation pillars have hardened, we screw the posts to the mortgages.
How to fix a canopy made of corrugated pipe with your own hands: photo collage with an example of using an embedded part
Now we move on to assembling the roof frame. We mark the corrugated pipe and cut it into pieces of the required length. We first weld or bolt together the side trusses, then the front lintels, and at the very end we mount the elements of the bracing grids, if they are needed. In the process, we check the building level; you can also use magnetic corners. We lift the finished frame onto racks and fix it with hardware/weld it.
Canopy made of profile pipe, photo of roof fixation on racks
For your information: Before installing the roofing material, the corrugated pipe canopy must be painted or treated with an anti-corrosion compound. This is due to the fact that during the assembly process of the structure, the factory metal protection is damaged at the points where the fasteners enter.Types of fastening elements to each other
Very often, canopies are assembled using through bolts or self-tapping screws. This method is good because you do not need welding in the process - not everyone knows welding techniques. All you need is the hardware itself and a drill with a metal drill. The diameter of the selected bolts/screws directly depends on the cross-section of the corrugated pipe - the salesperson at the building materials store will advise you on this matter.
We assemble canopies from a profile pipe with our own hands: photo of fastening with through bolts
Welding is no less popular for assembling canopies from corrugated pipe than bolts or self-tapping screws. A welding machine, electric or gas, is required for operation. The latter involves the use of a certain number of consumables. Welding provides a very strong fastening that does not violate the integrity of the body of the elements. For example, the same bolts require drilling holes, which weakens the entire structure.
Note: The disadvantage of such installation is the complexity of the process. Not everyone knows welding techniques at a level sufficient to assemble structures under heavy loads. Therefore, if you are not confident in yourself or do not have the opportunity to hire a specialist, it is better to give preference to bolts/screws.
How to make canopies from a profile pipe with your own hands: the photo shows the welds
Small canopies made of profiles with a cross-section of up to 25 mm are assembled using special clamps, or, in other words, a crab system. They are T-shaped - to connect three ends and X-shaped, to connect four ends. The clamps are tightened with bolts (6x20 or 6x35) with nuts - hardware is usually not included in the kit and must be purchased separately. The disadvantage of the crab system is that the elements are connected only at an angle of 90 degrees. Welding is not appropriate here, since the corrugated pipe of the specified section has a small wall thickness.
How you can fasten a canopy from a profile pipe with your own hands: crab systems
For your information: The corrugated pipe has anti-corrosion treatment only on the outside; inside, the metal surface remains susceptible to rusting. Therefore all the cuts structural elements canopies must be closed with plugs.Choosing a professional pipe for a canopy: size and cross-section
When choosing professional pipes for large canopies, you must use data from SNiP:
- 01.07-85 - regulates the combination of snow loads and the weight of structural elements of the building.
- P-23-81 – work with steel products.
Based on the data from these provisions and your own needs, you will need to decide on the following: choose the angle of the roof, the type of corrugated pipe for the racks and the type of trusses. For example, let’s take a wall-mounted canopy 4.7x9 m, the front edge of which will rest on the posts, the rear edge will be rigidly attached to the wall of the house. Location, for example, Krasnodar region. Optimal angle The roof slope for canopies of this type is 8 degrees. The snow load for a 4.7x9 m roof for this area will be 84 kg/m2.
The approximate weight of one rack (2.2 m) is 150 kg, the vertical load on it will be 1.1 tons. A round corrugated pipe with a cross-section of 43 mm and with walls of 3 mm, popular in construction, will not work here, the minimum values are 50 mm and 4 mm . The square pipe can be 45 mm with a wall of 4 mm.
Table of correspondence between wall thickness and section
The simplest and most convenient version of trusses is two parallel belts with a diagonal lattice. With a truss height of 40 cm per belt would be better suited square corrugated pipe with a cross-section of 35 mm and a wall of 4 mm, for diagonal grids - 25 mm and 3 mm. The connection system must necessarily go along racks and trusses.
Example of a roof truss