When building - there are no trifles. A reliable house,
as a clockwork, the absence of one screw makes the whole mechanism unworkable.
The same is true with the blind area. Many postpone installation of blind area for later, and some generally think that you can do without it.
But in vain. It performs a number of important functions.
Functions of the blind area
- Protective. Protects the foundation from various climatic phenomena: rainwater, freeze / thaw the ground and protects the building from deformation.
- Practical. Blinds create a convenient passage along the building.
- Decorative. Modern materials make it possible to make a beautiful decorative element.
- Warming. Laying a special insulating layer, you can additionally insulate the house.
Nuances and subtleties of the installation of the blind area
- The width of the blind area must be at least, than the overhang of the roof. But as a rule, professionals recommend that the length of the roof protrusion add up to 20-25 cm so that the water from the roof does not fall on the blind and does not seep into the soil close to the foundation.
- The blind area must necessarily have a small slope from the foundation. This will ensure the drainage of melt water and rain. The slope must be at least 5 degrees.
- Before the installation process it is necessary to determine with coating material ( concrete screed or paving slabs), as the future design of the blind area depends on this.
- Particular attention should be paid to connecting the blind area with a foundation. In the place of docking it is necessary to leave the so-called compensating suture.
Types of otmostok
The most common version of the blind area around the building is a concrete screed. This option is the simplest, affordable and cheap. But it loses its decorative function.
Another way - installation of concrete-reinforced slabs. The size of the plates is different and is selected individually, but the most popular plates with a size of 60x60 cm. This laying simplifies the work.
Another option - arrangement of blind area from paving slabs or natural stone. Naturally, more expensive, but properly equipped such a blind area will serve as much as the building itself and, apart from a practical function, decorates the house, giving it finished aesthetic look.
Styling tools
- Concrete mixer.
- Rubber hammer-mallet.
- The Soviet shovel.
- Construction level.
- Rule.
Necessary materials
- Sand.
- Crushed stone.
- Waterproofing.
- Geotextile.
- Armature.
- Board 25-40 mm for formwork.
- Cement.
- Stone or pavers (at will and financial opportunities)
- Curbstone (curb).
Algorithm for the installation of concrete paving
The blind area around the house with its own hands is quite labor-intensive, but possible. Consider an example of the installation algorithm.
Step 1.
Measure the required distance from the base of the foundation (as mentioned above: the length of the eaves + 20cm) and drive pegs.
Step 2.
Pull rope on pegs, this is the future edge of the blind area.
Step 3.
We excavate the upper layer of the soil. As a rule, it is 15-25 cm. Maybe more, but it is very important to choose all the fertile soil so that there are no roots. The cut is made around the perimeter of the building.
Step 4.
Important: the width of the blind area should be everywhere equal. It is also very desirable to make an even base of the trench.
Step 5.
In the resulting trench we lay PVC film and cover the first layer of sand - sand cushion. Its thickness depends on the soil and the depth of the trench obtained. On average, this layer has a thickness of 5-10 cm. This pillow will act as a buffer between the soil and the future area.
The sequence of laying the sand cushion is as follows:
- sand evenly distributed in the trench;
- the resulting layer is densely packed. For this procedure, a bar can be used, to which you attach on both sides of the handle. The ramming is ready;
- after a thorough tamping, a layer of sand should be poured with water, preferably through a sprayer. Water should be abundant enough, but so that the sand does not loosen. Water will help to expel air from the sand so that air chambers do not form in it. This procedure can be done twice, if necessary. Check whether everything you did right, you can simply experiment: when the sand absorbs water and slightly dries, stand on it with both feet. Sand should not fall through, but only leave a clear trace from the soles. If everything is so, then everything is done right.
Step 6.
After laying a sand cushion, we set a curb. The development of further actions is possible in two ways. The first is the installation of a curbstone, the second is the installation of wooden formwork with a further strait of concrete.
- Option 1. Curb. Laying of curb elements is done by stretched string or wire. Between the plates leave a small gap of 1.5-2 cm to penetrate into these slits of the solution. The difficulty of this option is that each stone must be precisely aligned in height equally with all. Almost every curb stone will have to be checked.
- Option 2. Decking. On the pegs marked in advance, we set the form level to 5-10 cm above the ground. The downside is that you need material for the formwork. It is also important to set exactly the level of the entire formwork.
Step 7.
Next step: laying gravel. We do all the same operations as with sand. They fell asleep, leveled, tamped. The thickness of the gravel cushion should also be 3-5 cm.
Step 8.
After installing on the bottom of the trench a grid of metal or reinforcing bars. Cells should be with a fraction of 5x5 cm. For the reinforcement, the cells can be made 10x10 cm. Under the net, there should be a space of 3 cm for the penetration of concrete. For this, you can put stones under the grid.
Step 9.
Next, you need to set the beacons. The distance between the beacons is determined by the width of the rule. The role of the lighthouse can serve as a board or metal profile. At this stage of work, do not forget about the slope of the blind area a couple of degrees towards the ground.
Step 10.
We make the fill. For concrete, standard proportions are used (1: 3: 1 - cement, gravel, sand). Since this layer of concrete during operation will be exposed to atmospheric influences, it is recommended to add frost-resistant additives to the solution. Next, use the trowel to level the mortar in the blind section. It is important to ensure that concrete penetrates into all voids throughout the area. When it is razed, you can correct the top layer with the rule.
Step 11.
After spilling one section, the already unnecessary beacon is carefully removed, and the place where he was, to fill up with a solution.
Step 12.
After filling the entire blind area, we remind you that it should be made simultaneously and monolithic, it should be watered from time to time (every four hours in hot season). You can also cover with a plastic wrap, which will create a greenhouse effect and will not allow moisture to evaporate quickly.
Video
Installation of concrete-reinforced slabs
If you have chosen a stand from ready-made slabs, then installing them will not be very different from the installation of concrete blind area. All operations up to step 7 of the algorithm are the same. After that, we prepare a concrete solution, put it in trenches and put a plate on it.
It is also important to remember about the necessary bias and check their evenness of laying building level. The gap between the plates should be at least one and a half to two centimeters. After stacking and checking the gap, carefully seal the solution.
Blinds of paving slabs or natural stone
Mounting this kind of blind area the most expensive and laborious. But at the same time, this kind of blindness gives the house aesthetic appearance.
Important. Even before the curbs are laid, it is necessary to calculate the width of the blind area so that the paving slabs fit completely and do not have to cut it.
When installing this type of blind area step by step we perform all the points of the algorithm up to 6 steps inclusive. In the case of a weak or loamy soil, it is necessary to reinforce a layer of crushed stone, spill it with concrete and only after its complete drying, apply a layer of sand, compact and install stones or paving slab.
Top layer of sand should be 5-10 cm. it is also abundantly wetted with water. Stacking is done with a rubber kyanki. The whole process is checked by level. After installing the stone or tiles the entire surface fill up with a dry mixture of slightly moist sand and cement (the proportion is 3: 1). After drying, sweep the broom, rubbing the seams with the remains of sand.
A reliable, time-tested method of protecting the foundation from the effects of surface water - the installation of a concrete blind area around the house. Unconditional advantage of the blind area of concrete is cheapness and simplicity of manufacture.
100% protection from moisture provided by concrete pavement with an integral coating, is not able to guarantee any material (without setting up a multi-tiered "pie"). The state of the foundation is directly reflected in the position of the entire structure. Therefore, the foundation needs capital protection.
This is the main task of the blind area - the protection of the basement and the base of the house. In addition to the barrier, it performs several other functions. For example, it allows you to organize a more convenient movement on the stage and gives the structure a complete appearance.
Consider step by step how to properly make a blind area around the house of concrete with your own hands. We offer to break all the stages of development into theoretical and applied.
- In the first part we will analyze what you need to know and prepare before you start working.
- In the second - how to prepare a bed and properly pour concrete pavement.
Requirements for the blind area and the rules of its device
- width of the concrete area, according to SNiPu 2.02.01-83 should be 200 mm. more than the overhang roofing material. In the presence of a drain, its parameters are also taken into account. The same SNiP regulates the width, depending on the type of soil. The traditional (optimal) width of the blind area can be considered 1 meter. This width provides freedom of movement and plays the role of a path around the house;
- length. Since the foundation needs to be protected along the entire perimeter of the house, it is logical that the blind area should also completely encircle the structure. The only exception is the location of the concrete porch;
- depth or depth of penetration should not exceed half of the estimated freezing depth of the soil specific to a particular region. This parameter can be viewed in the table or requested information in the architecture management at the location of the object.
The ability of the concrete blind area to move along with the soil informs it of its function. Otherwise, its role will be reduced to tapping water, which is not enough to protect the basement.
Note. The depth of freezing is affected by the presence of communications in the ground.
- thickness of the concrete area. Justified is the minimum thickness of the surface layer of 70-100 mm. If an increased operational load is planned, for example, auto movement, the thickness can reach up to 150 mm;
- incline. SNiP III-10-75 recommends which slope should be - from 10 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width (ie 1-10%). The angle of inclination is directed to the side opposite to the foundation of the house. Requirements for bias depend on the level of precipitation in the region and the type of soil. In practice, the slope is taken equal to 20-30 mm per 1 m (2-3 degrees). If to do more, in case of icing, it will be difficult to move around such a blind area;
- border. In the case of a blind, the curb is a decorative element and the decision to install it is made based on the preferences of the owner of the house and its financial capabilities. However, if bushes are planted in the immediate vicinity of the blind area - "root aggressors" (raspberries, blackberries) or trees that have a powerful surface root system (poplar, platan), then the setting of the limiter is mandatory;
- cap height. The standards set the minimum height of the cap to 500 mm, for the hard-type blind area and at least 300 mm for soft. Recall, blind area around the house of concrete refers to a rigid type;
- height of blind area from ground level. It is desirable that the blind area is 50 mm higher than the ground level. This recommendation is due to the fact that water should not accumulate on the edge of the blind and turn into puddles. In winter - it is fraught with freezing and, consequently, destruction of the structure.
- construction of blind area of concrete has a specific device diagram, which is shown in the figure below.
Armed with the above data, you can proceed directly to the device concrete foundation area.
How to make a blind area of concrete around the house
Material preparation:
- concrete for blind area. The mark is an indicator of the quality of concrete, its value ranges from 100 to 1000. It indicates the proportion of cement in concrete. The class of concrete is in the range from В3,5 to В8 and denotes strength of concrete. So, class B 15, indicates that a cube of concrete filling with a size of 15x15x15 cm is able to withstand a pressure of 15 MPa.
What brand of concrete is needed for the blind area? To prepare the solution, cement grade M 200 (class B15) is used.
Parameters (properties) of concrete depending on the brand are shown in the table.
- sand. What is needed? For the device of the lower layer of the pillow, river or quarry sand is suitable. The main thing is that it does not contain large impurities that could damage geotextiles;
- crushed stone (gravel). For the blind area, crushed granules of fraction 10-20 are suitable;
- clay or geotextile for the hydro-lock device. In practice, this layer is absent in the basement cushion, because the concrete drains the water well;
- cement for ironing.
Composition of concrete mortar for blind area
If there is no possibility to use ready-mixed concrete, it can be kneaded independently. For this you need to prepare:
- cement for blind area. It should be noted that the brand of concrete is determined by the cement brand and its specific gravity as a percentage of the components of the solution. For the blind area, cement M400 Portland cement is used. Cement should be fresh, with each month of storage, it loses 5% of its properties. Check the freshness is simple, enough to clench a little cement in the fist, if it shrinks into a lump - the expiration date is at the end, if it loosens freely - you can work with it;
Note. Which cement is better for blind area? Naturally, fresh and high brand. This will save on the consumption of cement and prepare a good concrete solution.
- sand. For the preparation of concrete it is necessary to take sifted and washed from impurities and soil;
- rubble. It is advisable to use gravel fraction 5-10 mm. In this case, the crushed stone is better than, for example, small pebbles;
- water. Must be room temperature;
- additives. It is necessary in order to give concrete frost-resistant properties. Liquid glass is often used as an additive.
From the tools you need a concrete mixer or a mixing tank, a shovel, a bucket (it's better to take a plastic one, it's easier to wash), a measuring container (for water), a manual tamping log or a vibroplate.
Preparation of concrete mortar for blind area
In practice, the grout is prepared in batches, after all the preparatory work has been completed. We will give you a ready-made recipe for cement mortar and how to properly mix it.
The composition of the concrete solution includes: cement, crushed stone, sand, water and various additives that increase its strength. Dependence (proportions) of these components depends on the durability and durability of the blind area.
Note. Components are measured only by weight.
The proportions of the solution for the blind area
Note. 1 cubic meter of sand on the average is 1600 kg, 1 cubic meter of rubble in the average is 1500 kg.
Depending on the brand of concrete, the proportions will differ. SNiP 82-02-95 regulates the composition of the mixture to produce concrete of a certain brand.
The concrete mix is very demanding on the amount of water supplied. Its excess reduces the strength of concrete, because removes cement flour into the top layer of the solution. This leads to the fact that the fortress is distributed unevenly. In practice, it is calculated that water should be about half of the amount of cement. More accurate data are contained in the table (water-cement ratio (W / C) for concrete).
The order of supply of components to the solution also matters. In the mixing tank or concrete mixer, the cement is first covered and water is poured. By mixing, so-called "cement milk" is obtained. Then add the remaining components to it. First, sand is poured in small portions, and then gravel (gravel).
Note. Professionals are advised to maintain an interval of 5 minutes. between feeding the components. Thus, the mixture is better mixed.
Technology of the device of the blind area from concrete with insulation
Step-by-step instruction:
Preparing the base for the blind. To do this, remove the top layer of the soil, remove all roots, stones, etc. The use of a continuous herbicide will eliminate the activity under the substrate. For example, drugs Agrokiller or Tornado.
Council. Given that the blind area should exceed the edge of the roof slope by 200 mm, it is recommended to use a plumb bob for precise marking of the blind area.
Markup. To do this, pull the rope on the pegs in the corners. To avoid sagging rope, you need to install intermediate stakes (5-6 m apart).
Council. How to determine the required angle of the blind area? Masters install additional beacons (pull the rope) on the base of the house. Fastening is made through 1-1,5 meters.
Hydraulic lock device. To do this, lay the fatty clay with a layer of 100-150 mm or cover the bottom with geotextile (roofing paper, PVC film, advertising banner, etc.). Pay attention that the film does not tear better at the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of sand in 50-100 mm. A layer of sand of the same thickness is also deposited on top of the film. The sand is equal, moistened and trampled. In the case of a hydraulic lock from clay, the sand layer is only one. When laying a film, you should avoid stretching it. It should be able to move freely with the soil.
Note. Masters are advised to make a quality drainage near the hydraulic lock. To do this, you need to excavate a trench 100 mm deep and 200 mm wide and fill it with rubble or lay a drainage pipe in it, wrap it with geotextile and cover it with rubble. This will increase the rate of water diversion.
It is worth noting that many ignore this stage of work. In practice, such an attitude results in the fact that the water passing through the compensation joint goes directly under the foundation, and when it freezes, it increases the pressure on it.
Backfilling of rubble. The thickness of the layer varies from 50 to 100 mm. Gravel is flattened and tumbled. Since rubble is difficult to compact, some recommend using a special grate for its laying, which is used in landscape design for the device of gravel paths. At once we will note, it will increase expenses on a blind area without special necessity.
Backfilling of sand.
Laying of communication pipes. For this purpose, a hole is made in the sand for pipes and storm receivers.
Warming of blind area. On the compacted sand, which is filled with crushed stone and communications, foam polystyrene or penopollex is stacked. For the blind area only a rigid heater is suitable, but it is afraid of point loads, so it must be laid on a sand cushion.
Council. Eliminate the cold bridges can be by laying the heater in two layers with an offset.
Reinforcement of concrete blind area. It is carried out by laying the reinforcing mesh with cells 50x50 or 100x100 mm or making a viscous reinforcing skeleton.
Council. Mesh netting for reinforcement is not good - it is too flexible.
If insulation is not expected, the reinforcing mesh is laid directly on the rubble to a height of 20-30 mm. What will contribute to a better distribution of concrete.
Formwork device. Planks or plywood are strictly level. To level the bursting strength of concrete, formwork is strengthened by stakes, which are installed from the outside of it. When installing, do not forget that the formwork is removable, which means that all seams will be visible after it is dismantled. In this case, the blind area will look ugly. Therefore, when installing boards you need to make sure that the internal seams are invisible.
The device of expansion joints. For this, we install wooden slats, boards (on the edge), which are pretreated with an antiseptic or milled. The recommended distance between the deformation seams of the blind area is 2-2.5 meters. Compensatory seams are made necessarily diagonally in the place where the formwork turns (at the corners). The purpose of the expansion joint is to compensate for the temperature expansion of concrete during the operation. They are set in accordance with the level taking into account the slope of the formwork, tk. when pouring concrete on them are oriented. As an alternative, wood can be Butylene-rubber ribbons Gerlen (10 rub / m) or a swelling elastic cord, for example, Penebar Rapid SW45 A / B.
Than to seal seams in a blind area?
According to reviews, who ignored the formation of expansion joints after the first winter had cracks. Many believe that the wood swells and lets in moisture. Seal the resulting cracks can be special sealants, such as mastic TEKTOR 103 (225 rubles / piece), ISOSEAL P-40 (280 rubles / piece).
Pouring of concrete blind area. When pouring concrete, make sure that air pockets do not form, and the cement mixture evenly fills the entire space. It is important that when filling does not appear bumps and hollows. Their presence will lead to stagnation of water in these places. If there is no way to make the whole area at a time, part of it is poured, and then the works are resumed.
Council. When pouring the blind, you can apply a technique for uniform distribution of concrete - a bayonet. For this, the concrete is "pierced" with a rod, and the solution fills the entire space.
How to properly pour a concrete area around the house - video
Protection of the concrete area from destruction
Many are interested in what to cover the concrete area around the house. After all, after the solution is poured, the blind should be protected from punching, deformation, destruction, moisture, rain, snow. Consider how and what it is better to do.
Ways to protect the basement:
Ironclad concrete ditch around the house
How to fix the blind with your own hands?
- Dry method of ironing - freshly poured concrete is sprinkled with a layer of cement (2 mm) with subsequent trowelling. Dry cement meets the concrete solution and increases its ability to withstand the effects of water.
- Wet glueing method - after 12-14 days after pouring (when the concrete dries), it is necessary to walk on the surface of the blind area with a cement-sand mortar (1: 1) with the addition of lime paste (10% of the mixture volume).
Coating of the blind with primer
For this purpose, primers of deep penetration, such as AURA Unigrund KRAFT (90 rub) are suitable. Priming solutions are used when additional finishing is planned. For example, laying tiles or painting. If this is not the case, it is better to use a water repellent, for example, Eskaro Aquastop Waterproof W (1200 rubles) or GKZh-11 (195 rubles / 5 liters). Strengtheners of concrete such as Monopol 1 (1 600 rub / 5 kg), Monolith-20M (1 200 rub / 10l), Protexil (3 600 rub / 20 l) or Ashford Formula (120 $ / 10 l) are gaining popularity.
Protection of the blind with liquid glass
The solution of liquid glass and cement is a more budgetary version of the protective composition (primer, hydrophobizer), which provides a similar result. The solution with liquid glass is prepared from a mixture of cement, water and liquid glass in a ratio of 1: 1: 1.
Coating with a layer of enamel
Enamel must meet certain parameters for frost resistance, vapor permeability, moisture resistance, environmental friendliness. Excellent proved itself polyurethane enamel ELAKOR-PU (220 rubles / kg).
Facing blind area with tiles, stone
On top of the concrete blind area lay the tile (ceramic, clinker, paving), pebbles or natural stone. In this case, concrete acts as a binder solution.
- near the blind area, it is desirable to install a stormwater that will drain the running water and exclude siltation of the site;
- to ensure a uniform drying of the filled concrete, the blind is covered with a film. So, the evaporated moisture will linger on its surface. Since it is difficult to cover the wide area with a film, it can be periodically moistened. Time to complete hardening at a thickness of the blind area of 100 mm is 1.5-2 weeks;
- after complete drying of the concrete, the blind area is removed. You should be careful here. Removing the blind area can damage the edges of the blind area.
Such order of performance of works and the account of all specified nuances guarantees long full functioning of a concrete blind area.
Repair of concrete blind area around the house with their own hands
The most frequent problems include:
The appearance of cracks in the blind area
Than to repair cracks in a blind area?
Elimination depends on the depth of damage (cracks, crevices, tears of concrete):
- not more than 1 mm. Self-healing is used. Such a crack does not pose a danger and is usually rubbed off from friction during walking;
- not more than 3 mm. Assumes the use of a "cement test". Shallow cracks can be filled (pour) with a liquid cement solution (1 part of cement per 1 part of water);
- 3-30 mm. Such cracks are considered large. To eliminate them, you can use a special sealant such as the above-mentioned TEKTOR 103, ISOSEAL P-40. It is possible to seal a crack with a freshly prepared mortar of concrete. However, before this crack needs to be expanded. In the section it should resemble a cone. Apply a primer over the entire area of the crack. Any, for example, Ceresit ST-17 (450-500 rub / 10 l) will do. Then the solution is poured. You can use the so-called hydroplomb, a special solution based on cement, which hardens in 15 minutes. As an example, you can put a filler Lugato 5-Minuten Mortel (410 rub 5kg)
- the crack depth exceeding half the thickness of the blind area, this is already a split of concrete and relates to significant damage. It is eliminated only by expansion and subsequent pouring of new concrete.
Stratification of the surface of the blind area throughout the area
In the language of masters, this process is called dusting of concrete or delamination (stratification). The reason for this phenomenon can be several factors. For example, uneven solidification of concrete happens when you pour a concrete solution on a cold surface (observed during early spring operation) or make a larger thickness of the blind area. Elevated air content in the concrete mix. Excess parts of rubble in the composition of concrete.
What if the concrete scaffold crumbles?
If the process is just beginning, then the surface should be covered with a "cement test" or a composition that contains liquid glass (proportions: cement, water and liquid glass - 1: 1: 1).
If the damage has reached a significant scale, then you need to take radical measures:
- determine the boundaries of damage to prevent its spread;
- cut down part of the concrete;
- cover the edges with a primer;
- apply a new layer of solution;
- cover with a film until it dries completely.
If you start, you have to completely dismantle the blind and fill in a new one. The measures described above will help to extend the life of the blind area and save money on alteration and reconstruction.
Cost of work on the installation of concrete blind area without material
And the last thing that interests everyone who wants to order the construction of a blind area is the price for a blind area of concrete. If the work of the masters is entrusted, the estimate should contain the work costs that are presented in the table (approximate data at the end of 2015)
| Service - work on paving of a private house | Doing your own work | The cost of the master for m. |
| Material price | Do not count, because the cost will be the same | |
| Removing the old blind area (dismantling) | 0 | 65 |
| Marking and excavation (depth 600 mm.) | 0 | 300 |
| Clay hydro-lock device | 0 | 100 |
| Laying of film or geotextile | 0 | 40 |
| Backfilling of sand layer + ramming (5 mm.) | 0 | 80 |
| Formation of crushed stone (100 mm) | 0 | 80 |
| Mounting of the shower tray | 0 | 250 |
| Pipe laying (per m) | 0 | 50 |
| The device of concrete area (ready-made concrete) | 0 | 300 |
| The device of concrete area (concrete kneading) | 0 | 650 |
| Total | Saving | About 1200-1400 rubles |
At the same time, remember that to agree on a significant discount, it is unlikely to work. After all, this price does not take into account the cost of materials. For a complete picture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the cost of materials for making a concrete blind area for 1 m.
Conclusion
Agree, a good incentive to make a blind from concrete with their own hands. Moreover, it can be seen from the above instructions - this work does not require a special tool, any special materials, only a desire to protect the foundation of the house with a reliable barrier.
Blinds of the house with their own hands: step-by-step instruction, videos, and expert advice presented in this article on the website site will help you accomplish this work yourself. The most reliable way to protect the foundation part of the house is to blind area: step-by-step instruction for the construction of this design is so simple that you can easily do without the help of qualified specialists. Following simple and understandable recommendations, you will be able to build a capital protection for the foundation of your own house with minimal costs and thereby prevent damage to the surface by surface water.
Blinds around the house you can do it yourself, even without much experience in construction
The blind area of the house with their own hands: a step-by-step instruction for the initial construction phase
At the initial stage of construction it is necessary to determine the choice of the blind area and the main parameters responsible for the quality and reliability of the structure. Private houses and cottages are not insured against the blurring of the foundation part by surface water, therefore it is recommended to apply additional protective measures to strengthen the base of the building.
The blind area surrounding the house plays a very important role in ensuring a long and comfortable use of the house. It provides protection of the structure of the foundation and the ground around it from water ingress. The accumulation of moisture near the house during melting snow or during precipitation can wash out the top layer of the soil and reach the basement. If it can penetrate to the bottom of the basement and damage it, its bearing capacity and strength will be reduced, which as a result may cause the destruction of the house. It is especially important to do it correctly when using a shallow base, where the sole is close to the surface, so that moisture can easily reach the depth of its foundation.
The width of the blind should be as high as possible, as it must protect the base.
As a result of soaking, the strength of the sole decreases, and it begins to sag unevenly, destroying the foundation. However, even in case of using buried bases, it is also necessary. It must always be done, regardless of the design of the foundation, the type of soil and other conditions.
Preparing to create a blind area around the house
How to properly make a quality blind area around the house so that it lasts as long as possible and becomes a reliable protection for the basement? To do this, you need to select the right material of good quality and follow the technology clearly.
First of all, you need to choose the width of the blind area around the house. Since it should protect the base, its width should be as high as possible.
Scheme around the house.
In addition to the protective function, the blind area around the house is also erected as a path along the perimeter of the building. This, too, must be taken into account, choosing its width, so that in the future one does not have to walk sideways on it. Based on the foregoing, it can be concluded that the most optimal width of a properly made blind area around the house, which meets all standards and requirements, is within the order of 1-2.5 m.
The blind area around the house must be made with a certain slope, due to which the flow of water in the direction from the walls of the building will be ensured. The construction norms determine the slope, equal to 50-100 mm per 1 m of width. This means that the edge of the blind area around the house, whose width is 1 m, will have a height of 50-100 mm near the wall of the house, and the other its edge will be level with the ground. The resulting descent is good for draining water from the structure: the water along it will flow down quickly enough, however it is difficult to walk on such a blind area. However, if the angle of inclination is less, the water will drain much more slowly or completely stay on the surface, but walking will be much more convenient. A compromise between efficiency and comfort is a slope of 15 mm per 1 m of width. When walking, this bias is almost invisible, and the water completely drains down and does not stay on the surface.
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Materials and coating for blind area around the house
In order to properly make a blind area around the house, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate materials. There are several popular versions of its manufacture, in which different materials are used, but the most common is a blind area of concrete.
Manufacturing technology is quite simple. First of all, the area for the blind area is cleaned, after which the bars of the armature with a diameter of 6 mm are laid in the form of a grid. Between them, the rods are connected by means of a knitting wire. Next, a formwork made of wooden boards is installed. In the end, the formwork is poured with concrete mortar.
From the blind area, made in accordance with all norms and rules, depends on the durability of the foundation, as well as the amount of money and time spent on the construction of the structure itself. It is better to take care of creating a blind area immediately after the construction of the house.
The blind area around the house consists of 2 structural layers. The first of these is the underlying layer. The main task of this layer is to create a densified, even foundation for covering. Used material: sand, clay or small gravel. The thickness of the layer is up to 20 mm. The choice of material for the underlying layer depends entirely on the material of the second layer, i. E. coating. The main objective of the coating is to resist to the destructive effects of moisture and waterproofness. Material used: clay (it can be used both as an underlayer, and to create a coating), asphalt mixture, concrete, small cobblestone. The thickness of the layer is up to 100 mm.
Scheme of the concrete blind area.
This is true for all types of blind area around the house. Next, the instruction of the device of the blind area is given on the example of the most popular variant - concrete.
For the preparation of concrete mix it is necessary to take cement M400, crushed stone and sand in proportions 1: 4: 2.
Make a markup for the future area around the house. The minimum width of the structure was told earlier. Remove and compact the earth around the perimeter of the building. Typically, the soil is removed during the zero construction cycle. When constructing a blind area, it is necessary to prepare the ground for the width of the future structure in accordance with the markings made. In this case, it is necessary to take into account what material will be used in the construction. For concrete pavement the earth should be taken out to a depth of about 25 cm ("on the bayonet of the shovel").
The next step is the manufacture of formwork from boards. For the formwork boards 20 mm thick are used. A small layer of clay is laid on the compacted earth. The clay is leveled and compacted. A layer of sand about 10 cm thick is laid. The sand should be carefully compacted, for which it should be additionally poured with water. Try not to overdo it. Remember that the clay is below. Especially carefully, you need to compact the sand near the foundation. Now you need to lay the rubble with a layer of 60-70 mm.
For any building, regardless of its purpose, it is necessary to make a blind. This will remove the surface water from the foundation of the house, and it will not break down from the negative impact of moisture.
The blind area around the house with your own hands can be made by any home master, its width should be within 0.6-1.2 meters, and in order to improve water drainage, it is recommended to make a slight slope, up to 10 degrees.
Before you make a blind area around your house, you need to investigate and take into account the geological features of the site, the drainage system, depending on this, its width is determined. As an external coating, any material can be used, in this case, everything depends on the imagination and capabilities of the host.
The cheapest and most affordable option is to use clay.
It is laid around the house, the thickness of the layer is 10-15 cm, after which it is covered with a hard coating. Clay is a good waterproofing and does not allow moisture to penetrate to the foundation of the building, as a top coat, various materials can be used.
A cheap and affordable option is the use of crushed stone, which is necessary when stacking tram. A more reliable option is the laying on top of a layer of gravel of cement mortar. Thus, the protection of the foundation against excessive moisture is greatly improved, and it is much easier to care for such a coating.
The most expensive, but also the most qualitative option, is the use of solid plate, the thickness of which is about 6-8 cm. But this method can not be used on clayey soil and ground, which is saturated with water, as it is very often necessary to patch holes and repair the blind area with your own hands.
Another option for the blind area, which can also be done with your own hands is the use of reinforced slabs.
What happens if you do not make a blind?
In the presence of frequent and heavy precipitation groundwater rises, and together with surface waters will freely penetrate the foundation of the building. Because of this, the foundation will begin to collapse, which leads to the appearance of cracks not only in it, but also in the walls of the building.
If the house is built on the heaving grounds, the consequences will be even more serious. After beverage ground with water, during frosts it starts to unevenly expand and press on the construction of the building. To prevent this from happening, in such cases, we must not only make a blind area with our own hands, but also warm it.
When deciding on what the width of the blind area should be, one must take into account that it must go beyond the eaves curtain of approximate 20-25 cm. Its width is usually about 80 cm, but it may be less or more than this value.
On the edge of the blind area, it is necessary to make a storm drain, through which water will be diverted, and in order to be more efficient, the slope of the blind should be 5-10 degrees.
If you carry out all the work yourself, then you need to take into account what some experts recommend to do the blind with the foundation, but you must strictly follow the work technology.
Main functions
This structure performs several functions.
If you look at the function of the blind area, it becomes clear that it should be continuous, without cracks and should fit snugly against the building. Its depth should not be more than half the depth of soil freezing in your region, otherwise it will not perform its functions, but will simply turn into a continuation of the foundation.
How to do it yourself?
In order for the blind area to function effectively, it must be at least 25 cm beyond the roof overhang. If the roof cover protrudes beyond the wall by 50 cm, then the width of the blind should not be less than 75 cm.
In order to do everything yourself, you will need:
- cement, crushed stone, sand;
- boards for formwork;
- polyurethane sealant;
- trowel or spatula;
- rule;
- solution tank;
- shovel.
Fig.1. Types of blind area on a sand and gravel cushion.
Step-by-step instruction:
- First perform marking and mark the location of the blind area along the entire perimeter of the house. After that, using the bayonet shovel remove the top layer of the soil, so that the roots of plants do not have a negative effect on the structure.
- On the perimeter set boards, they will not allow the solution to spread, boards are fastened in the necessary position with the help of pegs and screws.
- To ensure a normal drainage of water, it is necessary that the blind area had a small angle, this must be remembered during the execution of work.
- The cavity that was freed from the top layer of the soil is covered with sand. It should be poured a little water and compacted. A layer of rubble or broken brick is poured on top.
- Now it is necessary to make a solution, after which it is poured, for leveling concrete use a rule. To ensure that the concrete does not crack, every 1.5-2 meters is recommended to make expansion joints that are filled with polyurethane sealant.
- Only 2 days after the concrete was poured, it is possible to walk on it safely.
15-20 minutes after you poured concrete, you need to lead his iron. This is done with dry cement, which pours the entire surface, and then it is smoothed using a spatula or trowel.
The ironing allows not only to strengthen the top layer of concrete, but also makes it smoother and more beautiful. If you plan on top of the laying of paving slabs, then ironing is not necessary.
This is a very simple, but nevertheless, reliable design. Sequence of work:
- at the bottom of the trench lay a clay 10-15 cm thick, it is well rammed and sloped;
- top PVC film, it is necessary to provide waterproofing;
- we lay 10-15 cm of coarse-grained sand on top of the film;
- on top, we fill up a layer of rubble, so that the rubble is not buried in the sand, you can put geotextiles or a similar material between them.
- to make everything look beautiful, rubble is poured a bit below the soil level, and roll grass is laid on top.
If the blind area around the house is made of tiles or pavers, in this case the sequence of works is also, but there are some features. Since there is a slope, so that the tile does not move, you need to install a curbstone.
If the blind is done correctly, then the border is not needed. This element may be needed in the case when nearby there are such plants as raspberries, blackberries and the like. In this case, the pillow under the curbstone is made one bayonet deeper than for the blind area and it is filled with a layer of sand mixed with broken glass. Then install a curbstone.
Warming and waterproofing
These operations must be carried out especially when the cellar or the basement is not heated and if the house is built on a heaving ground.
For the organization of waterproofing, such materials can be used to help clay: PVC film, ruberoid, bituminous mixtures. To improve the temperature regime near the basement, under the waterproofing lay a layer of insulation, it can be polystyrene foam, foam glass or other materials.
