After the repair in the kitchen, you probably decide to buy a new kitchen set. Typically, stores provide assembly services for an additional fee. But why pay money when you can save money? After assembling the kitchen with your own hands is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.
To assemble the kitchen yourself, you need a minimal set of tools.
Process of kitchen assembly
If you previously did not deal with the assembly of furniture, then before assembling the kitchen, be sure to read the standard instructions. It schematically shows which parts are used for, and the order of work. 
If you screw the part not in its place, you will have to disassemble it, and this will reduce the strength of the connection. Especially it concerns cheap cabinets from chipboard modules, often the doors from them break away together with the root.
The process of assembling the hanging cabinet can be viewed on this video:
Assembling drawers
Kitchen installation
We proceed to the second stage - the installation of the kitchen in place. Do not hang the doors yet, they will interfere.
- First install a side cabinet, usually a sink. To make the pipes pass here, make holes in the wall of the hardboard beforehand.
- Then install the following floor cabinets. Immediately they are adjusted in height and, if necessary, cuts are made in them.
- After installing all the cabinets, connect them together. To do this, use self-cuts of 30 mm or an inter-sectional furniture screed. The second option is more reliable, as the screws have too small hats and they can come out together with the roots. It will be enough to 4 tie on the floor cabinets and 2 pieces on the hinged.
Fixing the sink
- If you decide to put a built-in sink, you need to make a round hole in the countertop. To cut the sink into the countertop, make a marking and drill a round hole of large diameter. Further on the marking, cut the tabletop with a jig saw and screw it onto the special fastener that comes with the kit.
- It is most convenient to do this before fixing the table top. Do not forget to treat the joint along the edge of the sealant!
- The fixing of the built-in board takes place in the same way, but it is better to produce it at the end, so as not to damage the equipment.
- The installation of a conventional washer on the cabinet is much easier. You just need to screw it on the bottom with self-tapping screws.
Necessarily need an assistant who can support the table top when cutting, otherwise the piece will fall off and tear off part of the coating. To do this work yourself, you can pre-paste on the table top painting tape. After you have cut off the round hole, the piece will remain hanging on the scotch.
Fastening of table top
Fixing the wall panel
- If you decide not to make an apron of glass, tiles or mosaic in the kitchen, there is a good and quick way to protect the work surface from moisture and grease - wall panels. They are usually sold in sizes of 3 m in length and can quickly and securely protect the place above the kitchen table.
- Fastening of panels occurs on usual dowels. Hat hides closets, so when marking it, take this into account, and leave the allowance. Dowels should be placed about 1 cm from the edge of the panel.
- To cut the hole under the socket, you need a special attachment to the drill - the crown.
Fastening of hanging cabinets should occur at a height of 60 cm above the countertop, otherwise it will be inconvenient to cook.
Mounting of wall cabinets
Door fastening
Final work
We close the gap between the table and the wall by installing a plastic skirting board. Its first part is fixed with screws to the wall, and a decorative nozzle is snapped on top. To decorate the corners use special stubs. Usually inside the plinth you can put a hidden wiring.
Next, the installation of household appliances,. For a gas cooker, fix the hood at a height of 75-85 cm, and for an electric one - 65-75 cm. To hide it in the cupboard, in advance, provide a duct hole in the top wall of the cabinet.
Conclusion
Now you know how to assemble the kitchen with your own hands, and you can easily do it. The main thing is to approach the assembly carefully, as the Russian proverb says: "Seven times measure, cut once". It is because of inadequate measurements that most of the mistakes of inexperienced masters are made.
Honestly, the idea of standing the kitchen itself came quite unexpectedly, especially given that the main specialty is not related to "needlework". Now that it has been implemented for a long time and has served for several years now, it is necessary to regularly advise friends and acquaintances about the design and construction of furniture in general and kitchen in particular. So this post is designed to kill all the hares at once - interested people can simply send a link, and even remember where to go and what to see if you ever need to enter this river again.
Initial data: new apartment, repairs almost finished. As usual in such situations, only the debts remained from the cash, but it's time to think about the furniture. Cabinets and sofas are a welcome thing, and the kitchen wants a good and immediately, especially after a couple of hours of surfing in the internet for the "what happens". Of course, I want everything-everything-everything, and that it would all open smoothly, put forward and so on. A visit to a couple of showrooms showed that our requests were matched by kitchens whose price was comparable to the cost of a car. The presence in the apartment of a carrying column, which had to be "built" into the kitchen, further inflated the price. In addition, Natka wanted something classic, but at the same time with modern notes, which immediately puzzled the managers of the salons. In design, I understand how a pig in oranges, so it is the willingness of the beloved to take on this part of the project and has dispelled the last doubts. For the money that was asked in the salon, you could easily "ruin" a couple of kitchens for training and build a third.
Phase one - find out what and where you can buy
Approximately one day off at the computer, continuously gulp on phrases like "sawing chipboard," "furniture accessories," "filling for kitchen cabinets," "facades for kitchens." As a result, the following picture of the world was drawn:
Stage two - preliminary designHere, in fact, everything is simple, most importantly, decide what exactly you need from the kitchen. You need to estimate approximately how much space you need to store stocks, pots / pans, you need to have a built-in dishwasher and if so, how many people. How much free surface of countertop will be required for cooking? How many different pieces of equipment will you need to mark in the furniture bowels (preferably, taking into account the perspective)? The result will be predictable - no matter what area of the kitchen was, it is impossible to place all the desired, so you have to choose and focus on the main thing. In our case, the main place was, therefore, we resolutely abandoned all pretentious design ideas and subordinated everything to getting the most capacious, convenient, and functional cuisine.
Kitchens are known to consist of upper and lower cabinets. There are still columns, but to shove more and it clearly did not work. Oven, hob, dishwasher, and a large sink were not subject to doubt, but decided to do without built-in microwave and refrigerator.
Height lower cabinets in the majority of salons standard - 85 centimeters, but we wanted above - 91 cm. It consists of the thickness of the table top, the height of the adjusting legs and the cabinets themselves. In this way, the height of the lower cabinet is calculated.
Widthis determined by the filling (all sorts of drawers, etc.) and built-in equipment. Typically, full-scale dishwashers, ovens and hobs are designed for a cabinet of 60 cm. Please note that this is the external size of the cabinet, not the internal one. That is, some of the lower tables are calculated almost automatically. "Play" can only be the width of nightstands with shelves and drawers., But here it is preferable (though not necessary) to adhere to round figures (most often 30, 45, or 60 cm). For example, I've got several facades with a width of 33 centimeters, because I had to beat the supporting column and use every centimeter.
Stage three - purchase of fittings and final design
Why do these two stages occur simultaneously? The fact is that finally the kitchen is built around the fittings and filling. That is, to finally determine the size, you need to know exactly which accessories you are going to buy, and even better to buy immediately, to be able to twist in your hands and finally estimate how it will all be. As a rule, not all of what is planned, will be in the warehouse, and you will need to make changes to the project in order not to lose time.
In addition, we immediately buy built-in equipment. Let him stand in a little corner, but we will finally make sure that she will fit into our cabinets.
How to transfer brilliant ideas to paper - everyone decides for himself. After twisting a couple of hours of specialized software, I spat and drew everything in the usual Adobe Illustrator in a scale of 1: 1, as taught in the school-institute, in three projections. The focus is on a scale, that is, if the detail is half a meter long, then it has exactly 500 mm in the illustrator. So the mouse's legs are in their hands, and pretty quickly the drawing drawing was ready. It is worthwhile to draw one curb, and then the magical copy-paste comes to the rescue. Further, when drawing up the specification for sawing and when assembling, it is convenient to take dimensions directly from the screen - poked the part with a mouse and all the dimensions are shown.
What was considered in the final design and rendering.
- For the lower pedestals, the side walls are on the bottoms, and on top are covered with covers. For hinged (upper), it is the side walls that support.
- By the standard (I do not remember where I found it), the facade should not reach the edges of the box 2 mm on each side, then its height and width should be less than the height and the width of the box (curbstone) by 4 mm. In practice, the accuracy of manufacturing and assembly proved to be so high, and there are so many "finish" adjustments that it was easy to reduce this gap to two.
- The lower pedestals after installation and adjustment will be covered with a table top, so a top cover for a box is not required. In addition, most of these covers will have to leak as if for nothing (for a sink and hob). At the same time, it is necessary to provide rigidity, and the table top must be screwed to something, so it is impossible to completely abandon them. I used two pieces of chipboard instead of a solid cover (clearly visible in the assembly photo)
- Drawers full extension - the most convenient place to store anything. Boxes do not happen much. The more boxes, the better. Boxes should be everywhere where they can only be stuck.
- The rear wall (4 mm fiberboard) is usually inserted into a special milled groove so that it can not be seen from the side. Since on my project this very butt can not be seen anywhere, I decided to just nail it from behind.
Stage four - drafting specifications for the sawing of chipboard
To place an order in the company you need to submit a completed form, which indicates the width - the height of the parts, as well as which ends should be hemmed and what.
With the help of a picture from Adobe Illustrator and spatial imagination, this task is easy to solve, but requires care and recheck. Looking ahead, I will say that due to a stupid mistake in the figure, when assembling it was necessary to customize a couple of parts and chop the iron. But these are all trifles.
Stage five - placing orders and revision of the tool
The easiest way is to take the completed forms to the sawing, order the countertop and the facades. In the meantime, all this is done (usually not longer than 10 working days), it's time to think about the tool. In addition to the standard set of "awl-hammer-screwdriver-pasatizhi", lying around in every house we need:
Stage Six - assembly
Here comes the coveted day. Mentally saying goodbye to the weekend, call at least one person to help, open the package with details, tupim in the printed specifications and monitor, and finally puts the "firewood" in handfuls. It's already beautiful ...
We start with the simplest "linear" boxes, in order to get a hand and work out the technology. However, everything is simple to disgrace. In the drill we put the drill under the confirmat, in the screwdriver - the hexagon under it, we expose it on the caliper 8 mm (half the thickness of the chipboard), postpone this distance from the edge of the part and weak it with an awl. We put one part to the other, use a drill to insert it, insert a confirmation letter, screw it with a screwdriver. If the hands do not shake, then no special devices, clamps or clamps are needed. Attracted by the Eurostyle to the "factory" end, the detail itself occupies a perpendicular, if even kept a little crooked. At first, you can use a gon or a third detail to control the perpendicular, but very soon "stuff your hand." If you drill a bit not perpendicularly, it's also not scary. The main thing is that they "stayed in the body", that is, the drill did not jump out. Because, thanks to the magic drill, the holes of three diameters were made in one pass, they are absolutely coaxial, and more is not required. To the assembled boxes we fasten the legs. After assembly, we control the perpendicularity of the tape measure along two diagonals.
The guides for the boxes are attached to the sidewalls before the cabinet itself is assembled. Convenient to do on the table - in my case it was the remaining after the repair kozla, which prisobachil "clean" surface of the remains of the parquet board. To the table we tie a couple of "stubborn" bars - we get an excellent assembly tool. When assembling boxes of other sizes, the bars from time to time are twisted to a new position, which takes seconds in the case of a good screwdriver and a bit.
So, simple lower tables are assembled. Preliminarily trying on the oven - everything is as in a pharmacy.
The corner cabinet is a separate song from behind the previously mentioned column. After the preliminary assembly, we drive it in place. Armed with chainsaw electric jigsaw, cut holes for pipes.
We begin assembling the upper cabinets. Heavy angular monster - part of the rear wall is also made of particle board for stiffness and strength.
In the cover of the cabinets-showcases we cut the lamp into 12 volts. After hanging and leveling the cabinets, the wires and transformer will simply be thrown over the top.
With the help of kitchen hangers we hang the top drawers on the steel tire and level. We tighten them with the help of furniture ties - we get an absolutely monolithic construction.
The dishwasher is itself a pedestal, gently squeezing it to the rest ...
And we connect to the water, passing the hose under the bottom of the next cabinet
The main assembly is almost finished, there are nice "clean" details like hanging facades. We also install the table top (the junction point is already sawed by the factory method, it remains only to fit a little behind the jigsaw to compensate for the unevenness of the walls, connect the screed, and screw the countertop to the covers of the lower bollards).
We close the bottom with a plastic cap, which snaps clips directly onto the legs.
Since one of the main criteria was the maximum effective use of space, then with the help of this set ...
We make a pair of secret drawers in the basement. Wheels go around the "rails" hidden inside, due to which the boxes perfectly fit into place when closing. The rails are attached to the feet of the cabinet.
We fix the railings on the wall, mount the lighting of the working area, which is covered with a decorative strip so that the light does not hit the eyes.
Again we take a chainsaw jigsaw, cut and connect the hood, hob, and sink. From above with the help of the corners we fix the decorative cornice from the profile, accidentally seen in the construction market (according to the project this element was not foreseen - it did not think so simply). Subsequently it turned out that upstairs cabinets you can still pile a trash, because thanks to the cornice it (a bunch) is not visible.
We put a pull-out basket with two trash buckets. So, as before the sorting of garbage our country has not yet grown, the far basket is convenient to use for potatoes. Dimensions in the design were chosen in such a way that to open the bucket it would be sufficient to open one door.
The second door - folding, consists of two facades, connected by special loops from Blum. This design provides easy access to the corner shelves.
The loop is called - for folding doors. As with all Clip Top loops, the "knee" mounting errors are completely compensated by all possible adjustments.
The drying door opens almost 180 degrees, again thanks to the special loops. With the usual it would be easy to put your head on the angle of the open door during dishwashing.
Finally, we regulate the facades and expose all the gaps equally. Well, in fact, everything, the kitchen is ready. The main assembly took two days off, then two more incomplete days to install all the little things. Yes, by the way, on the prominent heads of confirmats in the fastening places, then they put on the neat plugs for the color.
In our country people are engaged in collecting furniture in their apartment on their own. As far as this is the right decision - every owner should determine for himself. In this article we will describe how to assemble a kitchen set with our own hands.
To get a quality result, any work requires preparation. Kitchen assembling is no exception.
Step 1
Check the availability and availability of all necessary tools. Charge the screwdriver battery, prepare the jigsaw. Electrical equipment can be replaced with mechanical tools, but this will only increase the time and complexity of installing the kitchen.
You may also need:
Step 2
Review the supplied furniture set for defects and the presence of all elements. If you find a shortage or re-sorting, you can contact the supplier or buy something that is missing.
Step 3
Read the instructions for collecting the kit of kitchen furniture that you have purchased. Kitchens produced by different manufacturers may have their own installation features, which should be taken into account.
Step 4
Take out of the room all unnecessary, to free up space for assembly, remove all debris. Floors must be clean.
Note! In order to avoid damaging the floor covering during the installation of cabinets, floor can be covered with tarpaulins or other cloth.
After preparing and checking tools, furniture elements and premises, you can proceed to the assembly itself.
Nuances of assembling a kitchen set
To properly build the kitchen, you must first familiarize yourself with the features and installation rules.
Kitchen installation
Opinions on whether from the upper or lower cabinets begin to install the kitchen are separated. Some experts believe that the already installed pedestals can interfere with the installation of suspended cabinets. According to other furniture makers, it is necessary to start from the bottom row, from which the height of the upper cabinets is measured.
You can choose the option that suits you. We will describe the first case. But first you need to tell the general principle of collecting cabinets and drawers.
How to properly assemble the headset elements
One of the most convenient devices for the kitchen set are drawers. If it is a question of narrow cabinets, for example, about bottle-bottles, fastening of guides for boxes in them is made before the box itself is assembled. If the cabinet is wide enough, then mounting all the attachments for the drawers is done after the assembly of the module.
At the preliminary stage, the cross points from the hinges of the doors are also fastened to the designated places. After this, proceed directly to the assembly of the box.
Step 1. Take the side wall of the box and place it on the flat surface so that the facade looks up.
Step 2. Dock at right angles to the wall of the cabinet with a bottom and fix the connection with confirmations. In the factory kitchens, holes for the Euro screws are usually prepared.
Step 3. In the same way, another side wall is attached.
Step 4. After that, install the top two strips, if assembled lower pedestals. Do hinged cases mount the lid.
Note! The ends of the side walls must be flush with the bottom, as well as the lid or upper slats.
Step 5. Lay the cabinet on the flat surface face down and measure its diagonals, the difference between the lengths of which should not be more than 1.5 mm.
Step 6. Fix the back wall of the cabinet using brackets or nails, placing them at a distance of 7 cm from each other. To fix the rear part was more durable, some experts use screws instead of nails and furniture braces.
Note! The curbstone above which the sink will be installed does not have a back wall, but is often provided with an additional stiffener.
Step 7. Attach adjustable feet to the bottom of the floor cabinets. The distance from them to the nearest edges should be about 50 mm. The legs can be metal or plastic.
In the first case, they perform not only a supporting function, but also a decorative function. Products made of plastic after the installation of the kitchen is closed with a plinth. Suspended structures are provided with hinges for mounting to the wall.
The drawer is assembled according to the same principle.
Step 1. The four bars are connected to each other at a right angle to form a box.
Step 2. Measure diagonals, the length of which should not differ from each other.
Step 3. The guides to the side walls of the box are fixed.
Step 4. Mount the front of the box with screws. Sometimes the front wall of the box can serve as a facade. In this case, it is attached to the side rails with the help of an eccentric. But this design is rare in modern kitchens.
We measure the diagonal, both diagonals must be the same
Boxes should be better assembled after the upper cabinets and lower pedestals have been assembled and installed.
As already noted above, so that the bottom row of pedestals did not interfere, many experts recommend first to suspend the upper cabinets.
First of all, the fixing point is correctly marked. For this purpose, the height on which the bottom of the cabinets will be located is laid off the floor. If the person who will work in the kitchen most often has medium height, then it is recommended to measure 1.3 - 1.4 m for the bottom of the cabinet. Then, from the mark, the height of the cabinets themselves is also set aside and a line where the fasteners will be installed is marked. The line should be flat and horizontal, which is checked using the mounting level.
Note! The distance between the top and the top section should be about 0.6 m. So if you decide to start mounting from the lower bollards, measure this distance from them upwards to choose the height of the upper cabinets.
Hanging cabinets can be in many ways:
- the traditional option involves the use of mounting loops;
- in the second case, use a rail that is mounted to the wall, and a kind of hook attached to the back of the cabinet and clinging to the rail.
Note! Through the upper section of the headset, often pass the exhaust duct and gas pipe. For this reason, in all the cabinets it is necessary to pre-cut holes for these communications with a jig saw or a hacksaw. Places of all saws must be treated with sealant.
The first method of mounting the hanging cabinets includes the following steps.
- on the line drawn on the wall mark the place of the first attachment and drill a hole with a perforator;
- insert a fastener into the hole;
- on the hanging hang on one hinge cabinet and, while holding the module, level it with the help of the spirit level and mark the place where you need to drill a hole for the second fastener of this locker;
- after installing the second fasteners hang and finally level the cabinet.
This procedure is repeated for all cabinets.
The second mounting method facilitates the installation of the upper section. In this case, it must be taken into account that in this case it is not possible to attach the cabinets to the wall. Such an installation of the upper cabinets, though expensive, but very simple:
- first, along the line drawn on the wall, a special metal bar is fixed;
- to the upper corners of the rear wall of the cabinets, screw suspensions with screws are screwed by the type of hooks;
- hooks hooks on the rail;
- level the cabinet.
When the entire top row is mounted and leveled, the cabinets need to be pulled together with furniture screws.
Installing the lower pedestals
After the assembly of the upper sections is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the floor cabinets.
Note! In the lower pedestals, it will also be necessary to make holes and cuttings for sewer, water and gas pipes, as well as for connecting electrical appliances to the network.
Step 1. Starting from the corner, the cabinet is put in place.
Step 2. Adjust the feet of the cabinet.
Step 3. Install and adjust the height and other cabinets.
Step 4. Tighten the neighboring cabinets with a clamp, and then with a furniture screed.
After that, the table top is placed on the curbstone. First in it you need to saw with a jigsaw hole for washing.
- To do this, lay the countertop on the curbstone as it will be after the installation.
- Then choose the place of installation of the sink and mark it with a pencil.
- On the marked contour in a cover of a table a hole an electric jigsaw is cut out.
- The cut is treated with a silicone sealant.
If necessary, in the countertop make a hole for the hob and for communications.
After this, you can install the table cover in place. Often this is done with the help of furniture corners, which are bolted to the side walls of cabinets. The worktop is stacked on cabinets and leveled.
If the lid of the curbstone consists of two parts, then they are connected by means of metal laths as follows:
- a bar is cut with a hacksaw along the width of the countertop;
- one surface of the strip is smeared with a sealant;
- fasten it with screws to the countertop;
- lubricate the other surface of the metal strip with a sealant and immediately join the other part of the table cover.
After this, fix the table top on the pedestals, screwing screws into the holes of the furniture corners.
The final stage
Completion of the installation does not require as much physical effort as the accuracy in the work. After all, the appearance of the headset depends on this stage.
Now the kitchen is ready for use.
Kitchen furniture from the workshop or factory comes in disassembled condition. You can entrust the assembly to specialists, but few people are able to make a better master. Only those who work "for themselves," and such are extremely rare. Therefore, many people prefer to assemble the kitchen set themselves. It takes a decent amount of time, but the quality will be on top.
Instruments
Before you assemble a kitchen set, you need to assemble a tool for work. Simple tools are required, but they greatly speed up and simplify the work.
It's nice to have a plane builder or a laser level. With it, placing cabinets in one plane is much easier.
Assembling of kitchen cabinets
Kitchen set in disassembled condition is a set of planks of different sizes, some accessories and a set of fasteners. Of all this, we need to assemble cabinets. Usually there are hinged and outdoor. How to assemble a kitchen set, in which order - the choice is yours. Some masters are more convenient to collect them in pairs - upper, then lower and so set. But there are two other ways: first to collect all the top, hang them on the wall, then - all the lower ones. Do and vice versa - collect and install the bottom, then - the top. In general, any way is right, do as you please.
Correct installation of the confirmation is in the middle of the chipboard.
Assembly of wall cabinets
In any case, we begin to collect cabinets. The usual hanging cabinet consists of two side panels, the top, the bottom, the back wall of the LDW and two doors - the facade. The order of assembly is:
Installing loops
Finally hang the facades (doors) after they have assembled and put everything in place, but put the hinges from the very beginning. There are they are mortise (are considered more reliable) and overhead.
Types of loops - mortise waybills
The fastening points are marked on the sidewall and the door with holes. Fold the sidewall and the door on a flat surface (table or floor) close to each other, aligning the marks. We put the hinges in place (they are included). Fasten first to the sidewall, then - to the facade. The door is a bit lower in level than the sidewall. Under it, put a bar of suitable size or a rolled up rag so that it was on the same level, then we tighten the loop.
The loop itself is dismantled (it consists of two detachable loops, which are connected with a screw.This screw is unscrewed, the doors are postponed, and we work on the side walls further.
We collect the case
To the sidewalls we attach top and bottom. They are attached to Confirmates - a special furniture fastener, which comes complete with a head under the hexagon. If there is a corresponding bit, put it on the screwdriver, if not, we work with a manual key.
The places of installation of confirmations are indicated on the outer side of the sidewalls. Fold the sidewall and the upper part, install the fasteners, then the bottom, and after - the second sidewall.
We turn the "face" down, lay and align the sheet of laminated fiberboard, which serves as the back wall. He is nailed with small carnations or staples out. First nailed in the corners, carefully leveling the edges, then in the middle of each side and further, dividing each section in half. As a result, the installation frequency is 1 nail / staple approximately 10 cm.
Installation of corners or loops, shelf holders
The hinges on which the wall-mounted kitchen cabinets are hung are different, they are installed in different ways. More details about them will be discussed below. Shelf holders are also different in material and in form, but are fixed in the same way in the same way - in the holes in the wall. Under them holes are drilled in the side walls. Sometimes in them we install plastic chopiki (small hollow plastic cylinders), we slaughter them with a slight knock with a furniture hammer, then they put the supports for the shelves. But most of the metal stops (namely, these are probably needed in kitchen cabinets) are simply put in the hole.
Actually, everything, how to assemble a hinged kitchen cabinet you know. For a visual demonstration, watch the video. Floor cabinets with shelves without drawers are also assembled, only at first the legs are installed on the bottom and the top part is the countertop, and it is common for all cabinets and is put after all the floor cabinets are installed and fastened.
Assembling the cabinet with drawers
We continue to assemble the kitchen set with our own hands. Now the most difficult moment is the drawers with drawers. The general order of operation is as follows: we set the hinges, the bottom and the back wall. The top-table top is put after all the cabinets are assembled and fastened together by screeds. There are still features - on the sidewalls you need to attach the guides for the boxes. Go.
Mounting the legs
Before assembling the kitchen set, the legs are installed further to the bottom. You can install the legs and after the frame is assembled, but twisting the heavy bedside table is not very easy. In any case, it's best if they are adjustable - not always the floor is perfectly even. With adjustable legs it is possible to set them so that the load is redistributed to all the legs. On small cabinets - up to 80 cm long - put 4 stops, more than 80 cm you need 6 control points.
If there is a partition in the closet, we place the legs beneath it. If there is no partition - in the middle. From the edges retreat 5-8 cm, screwed on samorezov length of 15 mm (with a thickness of chipboard 18 mm). In most finished furniture under the legs, too, there is a countersink - holes of small diameter. Combine the slits in the legs with holes, install self-tapping screws.
Mounting rails and assembly for boxes
On the sidewalls of the lower cabinets there is a marking for the installation of guides (they are included). For their fastening, a Euro screw M6 * 13 is used. Set the desired number of guides to both sides.
The boxes are assembled with screws 4 * 45. The guides are first installed. Depending on the design, they can be mounted on the walls of the box or on the bottom edge of the sidewall. If there are markings on the wall (holes), then they are placed on the sidewalls. If not - on the butt. To be sure, look in the assembly instructions. There in the pictures should be the installation process.
After the guides are connected, the sidewalls are connected to the rear wall, then the front wall is installed, then the bottom is installed. Before installing the bottom, check the diagonals. They must match up to a millimeter. The bottom is fastened with nails or staples.
We collect the case
The assembly of the body is already familiar: we attach the lid to the sidewalls, then the lower part with legs. We put the cabinet in place, twist the legs so that the top cover is at the correct height and was horizontal. The horizon is checked with a bubble or laser level. After we install the covers.
Features of the assembly of the corner cabinet
The main feature is that in budget kitchen sets the bottom consists of two parts (to reduce the cost price). If in this cupboard installation of a sink is provided, the back wall is almost absent, but there are some couplers-collets which give rigidity of a design. In the rest everything is the same as when assembling an ordinary locker with doors.
How to hang the closets in the kitchen
Even before assembling the kitchen set, you need to buy awnings and inter-section furniture ties to fix the hanging cabinets. Let's start with awnings they are of different types, that's about them and talk.
How to assemble a kitchen set you already know, you need to figure out how to install it in place. Hanging lockers kitchen set mounted on the wall. They are attached with the help of furniture canopies. There are they in the form of metal plates with holes for fasteners, but there are also more complex designs. Cheaper ones are ordinary metal plates. They can be of different shapes, made of ordinary or galvanized steel.
Simple sheds
The most common variant (top left) is a plate with two small holes for the fasteners and one large one (a hook or head of a screw installed in the wall is inserted into it). It is installed on the end of the sides - right and left. With a heavy load, this kind of canopy can break down, since the fasteners are a short distance from each other and the chipboard can collapse. A more reliable option is from below - more fasteners, but there is still a risk.
Two other types of furniture canopies are more reliable, since one of the screws will be installed also in the locker lid, that is, the load will be distributed over a larger area.
The corners showed themselves well. One edge of this canopy is attached through the lid. Make a through hole, the bolt with the washer is placed below, the nut is tightened from above (also with the washer). Install them at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edge, if you expect a large load you can put three or four pieces, which with previous models is impossible.
Kitchen cabinets hung on the corners with lining - to compensate for the difference in thickness of the apron
The general drawback of all these fixtures is that they are unregulated. As they hanged, so it will be. There is no possibility to move from the wall or the wall. If it protrudes above the plane. walls, you have to mount the bar on the wall or under each fastener to choose a lining (a piece of plywood, a piece of wood, etc.). The second drawback - for each canopy you need to install a separate hook or dowel. Not very comfortable.
Adjustable
A more complex and expensive canopy consists of a plastic casing, a metal canopy and a system of adjustments that allows it to move forward / backward and up / down. These canopies are attached to the side walls of the cabinet from the inside, a small hole is cut in the back wall. Coupled with these canopies is a mounting rail or rail. It is attached to the wall, the hooks of the canopies cling to its upper lip. Installing and removing hanging cabinets with this fastening system is very simple, and the "load-carrying capacity" they have sufficient 20-50 kg per one canopy (depends on the model and manufacturer).
How to install a kitchen set
As already mentioned, the order of installing lockers is arbitrary. You can first top the hanging then the lower or vice versa. It does not matter. The order of installation is important: they always start from the corner. On how level this first cabinet will be exposed depends on how easy the further installation will go.
The height of the installation of hanging cabinets depends on the growth of "users", but not lower than 45 cm from the level of the countertop. When hanging cabinets on the wall, mark the horizontal line. It can be drawn with a bubble or water level, but the easiest way is to unfold the plane at the desired height using a leveling device or a plane builder. On this line, install the upper edge of the mounting plate or align the cabinets when mounted on ordinary canopies.
The task is simple and difficult at the same time - to set the cabinets so that they are at the same level, and their walls are vertical and horizontal. In this case, there will be no problems during operation.
As the kitchen furniture consists of separate cabinets, they are fastened together. There are two options - to install, then to fix, or first to fasten, then to hang. The second option is possible with the help of assistants - even two fastened cabinets hanging alone are not an easy task.
Clamp the lockers with each other using inter-section screeds. They have different diameters and different lengths - under the chipboard of different thicknesses. On one wall you need at least two ties. They put in the loop area - a little lower or slightly higher. Two cabinets are exposed in one plane, fastened with clamps to their walls, make a through hole - by the diameter of the screed, into which the fastener is fastened, tightened with a screwdriver or a screwdriver.
How to install a countertop on a kitchen set
To assemble the kitchen set completely, you need to install a countertop. It is fixed after the cabinets are pulled off. On the walls are installed steel corners, which fix the countertop. Fineness in the processing of the ends and cutouts under the sink look in the video.
How to process sections of laminated worktops from chipboard, see the following video. It is useful to those who want to assemble a kitchen set by all the rules.