There is a lot of finishing materials, but not all of them have such characteristics to decorate a bath, kitchen and other rooms, where the humidity level is above average, so let's consider how to put tile on the walls in such rooms.
To address to masters or to make independently?
Every repair, even the lightest and shallowest, requires a lot of expenses, it's not for nothing that they say, make a budget first, and then double the amount received. And no matter how we would like, but rarely anyone can get all the work done and not go beyond the expected budget. And one of the most significant items of expenditure falls exactly on the bathroom and the kitchen.
This is all due to the high cost of the plumbing itself, while doing repairs and not changing it is pretty silly, because the whole impression will be immediately crossed out as soon as you go into this room. Buy the cheapest plumbing is also not a good option, because substandard sinks and baths will quickly lose their appearance, and bad siphons, cranes and other accessories can easily leak and flood neighbors from the bottom.
So after all, on what can you save? The tiles, which are covered with walls and floor of such premises, are also not a cheap pleasure, at the same time masters usually take almost as much work as the cost itself finishing material . However, you can not replace all the plumbing, at the same time leave the walls in a very deplorable state, because rust stained with years, raid and other defects will spoil the impression even from the most expensive high-quality equipment. Therefore, one way out, do the work yourself. Moreover, even those who have the most minimal knowledge in the field of repair will be able to cope with such a task.
Cladding of walls with ceramic tiles - types of materials
Tile has many advantages, and most importantly - is not afraid of moisture or dirt, which makes it very popular and universal. One can not help but appreciate its decorative role. Today there is a very large selection of both invoices color gamut, and manufacturers of this facing material. Consider the main types of tiles.
Glazed tiles are very popular, and a special water-repellent coating is applied on the surface. It is of different colors and can be glossy or matte. With the increasing popularity of the 3d format, tile manufacturers could not ignore this moment, and today on the shelves of building stores it is possible to easily purchase tiles with a three-dimensional pattern.
In addition, the following will be the true assistants in creating a unique interior: decorative elements.
- A panel is one or a composition of several large tiles on which a pattern is applied. Usually they have a horizontal, crosswise or vertical arrangement.
- Decors also have different sizes and can be smooth or with patterns, flat and convex. In addition, they can carry a certain functionality, for example, they often have hooks, podstavochki or shelves. These elements are mainly located at some distance from each other.
- Also irreplaceable helpers for finishing the bathroom there will be curb-pencils, with their help you can divide the room into separate zones. And if you put this element on the junction between the floor and the wall, then it will make the composition complete. Such curbs can go and complete with ceramic tiles, and separately.
Advantages and disadvantages of tile facing
ceramic tiles has many advantages, there are also disadvantages, this is discussed. The main advantages of this coating is its strength, which in some types even exceeds the characteristics of reinforced concrete. The material does not require special care and is not afraid of different chemical agents, so washing such a surface is a pleasure.
Ceramic tiles have a special structure on which different microorganisms can not live, and it does not emit any harmful substances. Refractoriness, moisture resistance and dielectric properties characterize it only from the best side. And one can not but appreciate the opportunity to create with its help an unusual and unique design.
The disadvantages are the same high thermal conductivity, so that the walls need additional insulation. Due to the fragility of the tile, transportation becomes very problematic. And the probability of getting a set of defective copies is quite large.
How to choose a tile?
Picking tiles in the bathroom or in the kitchen, you need to take into account such parameters as its size and color, it is especially important that the floor and wall cover are harmoniously combined. In addition, the tile is glossy or matte, in principle, this choice depends entirely on personal preferences, however, it is worth considering the fact that on the glossy surface will be more visible stains, stains and oil stains.
Site Masters website prepared for you a special calculator. You can easily calculate required amount tiles.
Also considerable attention should be paid to the manufacturer, it is not worth pursuing the low price, as very often the cheapest options do not withstand right angles, and therefore, its installation will be very difficult. Make sure that there are no defects on its surface, here the presence of chips, scratches, cracks, foreign inclusions is unacceptable. Demand that such a product is replaced with a new, better quality one. When completed, and you returned victoriously back home, it's time to think about the work process.
How to lay a tile - do the facing yourself
This procedure is not very intricate, but you will have to work hard, so you should not count on an easy result. Below is the detailed instructions how to put tiles on the wall.
How to properly tile your own hands - turn-based scheme
Step 1: Preparing the room
The first step is to prepare a room, which means that we dismantle all plumbing, if it is a bathroom, or kitchen cabinets, a refrigerator and other electricians, when they were going to put a tile in the kitchen. In general, it does not matter what the destination was for this room, the main thing is that it was mostly empty. Yet special attention should be given to the choice of material, carry out a thorough visual inspection, so as not to miss a single marriage. If such instances are available, then they need to be sorted (in the case when the replacement is not possible) and used later for trimming.
. We pull a fishing line between them at the level of each row, for this purpose it is possible to hammer nails or screws into the slats in order to fix it on them. It is necessary that a gap of at least 2 mm is maintained between them, which will not allow the material to crack during temperature expansion. We make sure that the horizontal and vertical are clearly maintained, and we check them periodically with a level.
Putting the first row, proceed to the next, also observing the gaps. Sometimes it comes to cut the tile, it is either a Bulgarian, or a special tool. And such "inferior" pieces are best placed in the corner where the shower cubicle, boiler, etc. will be installed. Since each successive series is based on the previous one, it is not necessary to erect more than three rows of medium-sized tiles a day. And it's better to put the big one in the same row for a day. Then the probability is excluded that under the weight of tiles can swim or even fall off altogether.
Step 7: Grout
And this is the final stage, and it can be done in a few hours. In principle, nothing complicated in this, just need to buy a special grout (fugue), which will match the color, and fill it with all the seams. Then, while the compound is not dried, gently wipe the tile with a damp cloth at the edges, where it was slightly polluted. Then we wait for full drying, we wash off a dust and we enjoy result.
The expert-builder Viktor Petrovich says:
Today we show you and tell you how to lay the tile in the bathroom on the walls.
Technology features
In the room we already laid out the floor with tiles made of porcelain stoneware. And now we'll start tiling on the walls. The process starts immediately from the bottom: we put the tile directly on the floor. Why? Because we have a lot of nuances in this room. Firstly, we have a hatch here. Secondly, there is a countertop under the sink, which we do ourselves. Thirdly, we have a panel in the room.
Therefore, we need to fit all of the above points wall tile in such a way that both the invisible hatch opened and the wash bowl was not large enough to be comfortable to use it, and that the panel was not pruned. All such nuances need to be taken into account initially, and everything is calculated. Otherwise, all the walls will be in the cropped tile, and it will be very ugly.
Thus, we lay the tiles on the walls from the first row. Then we have everything without pruning. The tiles on the floor are perfectly set: we checked the levelness of the horizontal by the level - according to the laser and the bubble level - everything is smooth. As a result, we can afford to lay the tiles on the walls from the first row.
If you are new to this business, or you have little experience, it is better, of course, to start laying the tiles from the second row. Why? Because if you put the floors not in the level, then, accordingly, the tiles will then go unevenly, with a ladder, and the joints of the plates do not coincide.
Laying tiles on walls
At the first stage of laying the tiles on the walls, we stir the solution. For work we use a bucket and a construction mixer. Then put the solution on the wall with a small layer. Therefore we spend on it a spatula-comb: on the wall we get dentate strips. Then a small layer of the solution is applied also to the tile, and we glue it to the wall, which already has a grooved mortar.
If the tile is attached a little unevenly, until the solution has grabbed it, you can lightly punch it with your fist and crush it with your hand. Next, between the tiles, we insert crosses. After we put the tile, be sure to check it by the level. In this case, the check for evenness should be done not after you have laid out the entire row, but immediately - after one or two laid tiles.
Why do we use special plastic crosses in work? In order to disperse unevenness in the tile. There is no ideal tile on the market, its geometry will necessarily be a little bit different, but different from each other. In our particular case, the tiles do not have good geometry, that is, the dimensions of each tile are a millimeter, but they are different from each other.
Crosses also allow to align the accuracy of the installation location of the tiles. They set the exact direction horizontally and vertically. It's good that crosses are at least 2 mm in size. Because with 1.5 mm you can not disperse the seams, there will be some irregularities, and they can not be noticed at first, and then it will be too late to eliminate.
Of course, the smaller the thickness of the seams, the more beautiful, but it will look nice and 2 mm. Further on the same scheme we lay the tile on the wall - row after row.
Mounting tiles on the corners
Then you need to pay attention to the next moment. In general, in any room there are corners: they are internal and external, that is now we are talking about the joints of walls that go inward, as well as those that bulge outward. They also need to do something with them.
We will put on the outer corners, in order to close the seams, special aluminum corners. They have another name - the layout for the tile. That is, with this corner we close the visible unpainted part of the tile, which would look ugly on the convex part of the corner. Also behind this corner you can hide the pruning. And then you get a very beautiful and neat corner at the junction of the walls in the bathroom.
We close the seams with corners
When installing with an aluminum layout on one side of the corner, we fix the tiles in the usual way, and on the other wall forming the corner, the tile is inserted into this layout. All this is also set on the laser level, and then it will be checked for evenness of the rule-level installation.
So we put the tiles on all the walls in the bathroom, beautifully and neatly decorated all the corners. Work is done! You can see!
The article shows the sequence of operations when covering walls with tiles, as well as the principles for selecting materials for surface decoration.
Features of choice of wall tiles
There are many different types of wall tiles, which differ in manufacturing technology, performance properties, aesthetic characteristics. In order not to miscalculate with a choice, adhere to our recommendations:
- To decorate the bathroom, choose a tile that can resist chemicals. To such include cleaning agents, cosmetics, hygiene products. Tile for the bathroom get low-porosity and acid-proof, the degree of wear resistance and strength characteristics for this room are not important. To learn the degree of resistance to chemical attack, you can use the letter marks on the package. Marking "AA" is applied to the packaging of material with a high degree of stability, the presence of other letters - "B", "C", "D" - indicates a low resistance of samples to chemicals.
- Cover for the kitchen should have the same characteristics as for the bathroom, and additionally have a smooth surface for a better wash.
- At the entrance to the house or apartment walls, use unglazed tiles with a sufficiently high degree of wear resistance.
Before buying, check the quality of the tiles, the simplest options for checking are given below:
- The face of the product should be flat. Attach the two tiles face-to-face and inspect the joint for gaps. In the absence of slots, tiles are suitable for operation.
- Single-color samples of high quality are always without strips.
- On the side for gluing, there are no chips, shells and cracks.
- The ends of the tile are straight, the quality of the work is checked when the sample is applied to a flat surface.
- Give preference to tile 1 grade. Items 2 or 3 varieties will differ in size and color shades.
- Buy a tile with the same calibration, its value is printed on the original packaging. The same marking on different tile packages means that they have the same size of tiles, within the tolerance limits.
- In small rooms, bright elements look good, they visually increase the area.
- Color fixtures can change the color of the coating. For example, the blue icing under the yellow light looks green.
- Glazed tiles have a high reflectance.
- On the glossy black tiles are clearly visible scratches and chips, but no visible dirt.
Buy tiles 10% more for the following cases: if there are defective elements in the tile lot; a number of elements will need to be cut or drilled; for a reserve for unforeseen repairs.
The rules for selecting glue for tiles on walls
Flaking the tiles off the wall is the main defect of this type of coating. To obtain a strong connection, consider the material and size of the coating elements. The weight of the tile depends on these characteristics: the heavier the tile, the higher the adhesion properties of the adhesive (the strength of adhesion to the wall). The degree of adhesion is applied to the packaging of the goods. The choice of glue is also affected by the operating conditions: temperature range, permissible humidity, ultimate mechanical load.
In order for the consumer to be guided in the variety of adhesive compositions, manufacturers introduced a classification of mixtures. Mixture marked C1 to EN12004 is intended for outdoor use, as well as for operation in dry and wet conditions. The adhesion value is 0.5 mPa.
Mixture C1 to EN12004 has an adhesion of 1 mPa and is used indoors. The adhesive solution has an increased plasticity, is not afraid of temperature changes, does not crumble at high humidity.
The third group includes glues with special properties:
- Mixtures for operation at high temperatures.
- White glues for fixing light or transparent tiles.
- Frost-resistant - can withstand low temperatures.
- Moisture-resistant - used in bathrooms or showers.
Glue is also distinguished by the composition of the elements:
- Cement adhesive compositions are considered better means for fixing tiles. Divorced shortly before use.
- Pasty glue is sold ready for use, but the reliability of fastening is not high.
- Epoxy compounds have two components that are connected before work. They are used in extreme conditions, for example, in wet rooms.
Technology of installing tiles on the wall
Consider the technology of laying the tiles themselves simple version - seam in the seam. Facing is performed in several stages.
Tools for fixing tiles to the wall
For a high-quality wall covering, the following tools will be needed:
- Tile cutter, Bulgarian - are necessary for trimming tiles.
- The level is needed to control the quality of the installation. To work, you need two tools: 30 cm long to control the position of one tile, 1 m - to control the coverage of the entire wall.
- A drill with a diamond crown - with its help holes are made for sockets, switches, pipes, etc.
- Spatulas: one - wide for smoothing the solution on the wall, the other - narrow for applying the mixture to a wide tool. Also stock up with a rubber spatula for grouting joints.
- The mixer is necessary for preparation of glue.
Preparation of walls for tiling
A smooth base ensures a high-quality laying of the tiles on the wall. Even an inexperienced handler will cope with work if the surface is prepared in advance.
The completion of the walls includes the following operations:
- Cleaning the wall from the old cladding - wallpaper, paint, old tiles, glue. For work, you need a hammer and chisel, and to protect your hands and eyes - gloves and glasses.
- Determination of the quality of the plaster is done visually. In the presence of swellings, or if the plaster is crumbled after the application of the load, it is knocked down to the brickwork.
- Measurement of the deviation of the surface from the vertical is performed with a plumb. When tilting more than 3 mm, the wall is plastered. If you do not eliminate the slope of the wall, then after laying the tile will appear slits in the corners, which are difficult to eliminate.
- Checking the perpendicularity of the walls in the corners of the room is done using a square. In the absence of 90 degrees, finish the wall with plaster. The absence of a right angle will be revealed after the completion of the construction work when arranging the furniture.
- Control of concavity and convexity of the base wall. Measurements are made using a string stretched along the surface of the wall or a long rule. If the wall deviates more than 3 mm at a length of 1 m, the surface should be refined.
If a small defect is eliminated, two spatulas will be needed: a large one to 1 m long for applying to the wall and leveling the solution, a small 10-20 cm for placing the solution on a large tool. Unevenness is eliminated by a solution of sand and cement. When processing small areas, the mixture is poured onto a large spatula and rubbed into the wall in a circular motion. Controlled by the work of the cord, which stretches along the wall.
Large wall surfaces are processed on base surfaces (beacons), in the form of T-shaped profiles. Reiki are installed by a crossbar of a letter to a wall in position at which the external party of a profile is located in a vertical plane. Lighthouses are sold at a height of 5 to 10 mm. The length of the rod is standard - 3 m, before cutting a segment of the desired length is cut from it.
The completion of the wall is carried out as follows:
- Secure the beacon vertically in the corner of the wall. To fix the slats to the overlap, an alabaster solution is applied pointwise. This material quickly hardens and does not allow the profile to deviate from the intended position. The distance between the points of fastening of the rail on the vertical is 500 mm.
- Press the profile into the solution and set it in the vertical plane.
- Similarly, secure the second beacon in the opposite corner of the wall.
- Pull the cords between the profiles in a horizontal plane, with a pitch of 1000-1500 mm.
- Between the installed profiles, fix the other beacons in increments of 1-1.5 m. After the alabaster solidifies, the beacons should touch the tension cord.
- Remove the cords from the wall.
- Throw in small portions of the solution on the wall and level it with a rule, leaning the instrument on the beacons. Works are conducted from the bottom up.
- The surface strength is checked by tapping.
- The permissible deviation of the wall from the vertical is 2 mm / m. Control - using a level with two eyes.
- Nonplaneity is checked with a long rule. After applying the tool to the wall, a clearance of up to 2 mm between the wall and the rule is allowed.
- If any deviations from the normative values are detected, finish the wall with puttying.
- At the end of the test, primer the wall with a moisture resistant compound.
Layout of rows of wall tiles
When decorating walls with tiles, you must constantly monitor the verticality, horizontal and flatness of the coating. Deviations will be minimal if there are basic marks on the wall.
If the floor surface is finally formed and located in the horizontal plane, it is used as the support surface of the first row of the coating. It is not always possible to lay the first row of tiles on the floor, often you have to start from the second or third row. The reasons can be several: at the very bottom of the wall are sewer and water pipes, do not finish the floor.
If a fractional number of tiles is placed in the vertical row of the covering (between the floor and the ceiling), it is necessary to determine experimentally the level at which the first row of tiles should be located. To do this, count the number of whole tiles in the vertical row, which provides a gap of 3-5 mm between the last tile and the ceiling. If necessary, raise and lower the level of the first row.
If you do not adhere to this requirement, a large gap can be formed between the ceiling and the tile, which is difficult to seal. Put a mark on the wall on which the first row of tiles is exposed. Below it will be located the bottom row of circumcised products. Transfer the level to all walls that are planned to be tiled.
Secure the flat rail to the wall in such a way that the top surface coincides with the line on the floor. Count how many whole products fit in one horizontal row. Often one tile is cut off. If there is a very narrow strip, move the tiles so that a gap of the same width remains on both sides. Mark on the wall the position of the vertical ends of the nearest to the corners of uncut tiles, draw vertical lines through them.
The marks put on the wall form a square of two vertical lines in the corners and one horizontal below the wall, which will not allow the deviations of the rows in the horizontal and vertical planes.
Fixing of tiles to the wall
Tiling the walls is done in different ways. The most common methods of laying:
- Seam in the seam. Tiles are exposed in rows vertically and horizontally with a plumb and horizontal level.
- In the dressing. The middle of the tile of the higher row should be located above the stitch of the lower row.
- Laying diagonally. It is used for large areas. In this case, the seams of the tiles are located at right angles.
Apply a notched trowel to the wall for a width of three tiles with a layer of glue that is slightly higher than the sample. Cover the tile with glue, and the traces on the mortar from the spatula should be at a right angle to the marks on the wall. If cement-sand glue is used as glue, then before laying the tile on the wall, soak it in water so that the moisture from the solution does not absorb into the material. Remember that after 30 minutes the adhesive loses its properties.
Attach the tile to the wall with a support on a horizontal rack, combining the edge of the tile with a vertical line applied to the wall. Gently press it against the wall and check that the glue is evenly distributed along the plane. Alternately attach to the upper end and to the plane of the tile level and check the horizontality and verticality of the material.
In the same way, glue the next 2 tiles. Between the elements, leave gaps of 2-4 mm, which are provided by crosses. Gaps are necessary to prevent the tile from peeling and cracking when it is heated. Check the flatness of the row, applying a level edge to the surfaces of three tiles at once. If there are gaps between the level and the tiles, remove them by gently hammering the elements with a rubber mallet or pulling the samples close to the gap.
Repeat the operation and trim the wall with a whole tile to the end of the row. Measure the remaining gap between the tile and the wall and cut out the necessary part from the workpiece. Tile is cut with tile cutters, tile sections in 2 cm of row are best cut off by a Bulgarian.
Go to the next row and repeat the tile laying operations. After covering the wall to the ceiling, you can trim the bottom row. Remove from the wall a horizontal rail under the first row. Measure the dimensions between the tiles and the floor. Cut the tiles and number them so they do not get mixed up when laying. To make holes for pipes, use circular drills and crowns. The lower row is laid in the same way as on the main surface.
Grouting joints between tiles on walls
Not earlier than a day after the end of the laying of the cover, perform the last stage of the wall tiling - grouting joints. For this purpose, a special putty with water-repellent, antifungal properties is used.
Seal the seams as follows:
- Clean seams from glue, dust and crosses.
- Fill the gaps with a solution using a rubber spatula. Remove the remainder of the mixture from the wall with a damp sponge. To make the seam aesthetic, take a piece of wire, whose diameter is slightly larger than the width of the seam, and draw along all the gaps. Putty justifies and looks much prettier.
- After completely drying the grout, wipe the tile with a clean cloth. To add extra gloss, the products are covered with a special solution.
Laying tiles on the walls with their own hands requires concentration, attention and endurance. In order not to be disappointed with the results of the work done, carefully study the subtleties of laying the tiles on the wall and do not violate the technology of work.
Like all other finishing works, laying the tiles begins with a thorough preparation of the foundation. To begin, first of all, you need to remove the old tiles. For this we need a puncher with a pike. The sequence of tile dismantling is as follows:
Using a sponge, moisten the seams between the tiles.
Clean the seams from the trowel with a metal spatula.
Inserting the punch of the puncher in the seam between the tiles, remove the tile from the wall. It is better to remove the tile from top to bottom.
Tiles can be removed in another way - with a hammer and chisel. First, the seams, as in the previous method, are wetted and cleaned from the grouting. Then the chisel is inserted under the top tile and the tiles are knocked down by hammer blows. However, this process is more labor-intensive than using a puncher, and will take more time.
How to put a tile on a wall
After you have removed the old tile, thoroughly cleaned the walls, leveled (if necessary) and primed them, you can put the tile on the wall.
Surface marking
It starts with the markup. Using the level, draw a line that marks the height of one tile from the floor, do not forget to take into account the width of the seam. If you glue the tile starting from the second row, then on this line a metal profile or a bar is installed, so that the tile has a support.
If you put the tiles on the walls after laying floor tiles, then you can start laying the tiles from the first row.
But if you put the tiles initially on the walls, then it is worth laying, starting with the second row. The first row is left in the end, so that it covers the floor tiles.
We lay the tile
So, you marked the walls and prepared the glue according to the instructions on the package. Apply glue to the walls with a notched trowel. Apply glue to a small area, no more than 1 m², otherwise you will not have time to paste the tile 0150 glue quickly freezes. Next, apply glue to the back of the tile and press it firmly against the wall.
For the bathroom and toilet is still not thought up the best finishing material than ceramic tiles. It is resistant to moisture, and to mechanical damage, and to aggressive cleaners. Assortment of modern ceramic tiles so diverse that the design options for the bathroom can be thought up almost endlessly.
Having found out how to lay a tile on a wall, even a beginner can finish the bathroom. However, the matter is labor-intensive, requiring careful preparation and exact adherence to the technology of work.
The rules and subtleties of the choice of tiles
First you need to think over the design of the bathroom finish. Ceramic tiles vary in a number of indicators:
- configuration;
- size;
- color;
- invoice;
- thickness, and the like.
A very important point is the materials used to make ceramics. In particular, those additives or the latest technologies Manufactures that impart strength, surface texture quality, color, luster or haze, and other evaluation indicators.
The table shows the main indicators of ceramic tiles produced by manufacturers
The simplest option is the tiling of the same color and configuration. Even in this case, you can vary the order of laying individual ceramic elements to achieve a certain pattern. But such a simple option is almost not used today.
Designers combine different elements in a variety of ways to give the room a unique style.
One of the options for spectacular decoration of the bathroom walls with ceramic tiles, which simultaneously serves as a frame for a large mirror
Strict rules regarding the combination of individual elements of the tile is almost non-existent, the main thing is that the design of the walls be designed with taste. Often the walls are trimmed with light tiles at the top and dark - at the bottom, dividing the border of the color transition by a special curb.
Nontrivial version of the finish: large light elements, separated by narrow stripes of bright rectangular tiles laid vertically.
This decoration looks effectively in small rooms. pay attention to different variants laying tiles in the bathroom
A plain tile fabric looks attractive when elements of the same color but of different sizes form a geometric pattern. Usually, elements of two or four kinds are used for this purpose with multiples of each other.
To decorate the bathroom, you can use the finished mosaic panels or sets of ceramic tiles, which when laid down according to the scheme form a specially designed image. When using tiles of different color and size, it is recommended to choose elements of the same thickness, otherwise the laid tiles will look sloppy.
The order of laying individual elements in a single tile can vary. Among the most popular options are:
- classical, the so-called straight seam, in which the tiles are laid back to back, forming long and straight tile seams;
- off (with offset), when in even and odd rows the elements are displaced relative to each other, imitating the pattern of brickwork;
- rhomboid, when using square elements deployed 90 degrees, the result is a beautiful diagonal seams;
- at an angle or diagonally - variation of the laying pattern for a square tile.
Of course, every master has every right to realize any tiled fantasy. Elements of the correct geometric form can be combined as you like, if only it is technically possible and does not go beyond the budget.
Preparation of premises, tools, materials
First you need to dismantle the layer of old finish, as well as remove all plumbing and furniture, which can interfere with the laying of tiles. If the bathroom needs to be left with furniture, a bathtub or other plumbing equipment for the duration of the work, it must be covered with some damping material to prevent damage from accidental falling of the tile or tool.
The base for laying the tiles should be perfectly even and clean. First, it is recommended that all cracks, chips and other irregularities need to be repaired. Then the walls are usually leveled with a plaster layer, checking the result of the work with the building level.
However, if the difference in some parts of the wall is more than 50 mm, it makes sense to use gypsum boards for walls.
Primer (glue base) does not happen much! This is the motto of the masters of the tilers
Of course, for the bathroom should only use moisture-resistant plasterboard. The surface of the walls of gypsum plasterboard is also carefully leveled.
To calculate the number of tiles, you need to measure the length and width of the walls. To the footage of the wall surface add another square meter or a little more. It should be remembered that some elements can be broken, some elements have to be cut. In the same way take into account other decorative elements: borders, panels, mosaics, etc.
It is better to immediately buy the right amount of tiles, making sure that all the packages were from the same lot. There are cases when individual tiles from different lots with absolutely identical characteristics, nevertheless differ slightly in intensity of coloring. But elements from one batch are usually completely identical.
Tile glue can be purchased as needed. Before starting work, you should carefully study the instructions for use of the formulation and follow the manufacturer's recommendations exactly. An important indicator is the lifetime of the final formulation. Do not prepare glue for future use, because it should be used in a fairly short period of time.
In addition to tiles and glue, a number of materials and tools will be needed:
- waterproofing and priming mixture;
- composition for grouting joints;
- a drill with a special nozzle for mixing glue;
- a convenient bucket for preparation of gluing composition;
- building level;
- spatulas;
- sponge;
- tile cutting machine;
- a block of corundum;
- platen for priming;
- metallic profile;
- plastic cruciform locks.
All tools and supplies can now be purchased in one specialized construction shop under the list
Experienced tilers can cut the tile and the usual "Bulgarian", but novice masters still recommend the use of a tile cutter. For home use, there are inexpensive models of this tool. Perhaps you need a little practice.
The trimmed edge of the tile is ground with a corundum bar. If it is necessary to make round holes in the tile, it is recommended to use a drill with a special nozzle, which is called a "ballerina".
In addition, the holes in the tile can be cut with special tear-off tongs, which neatly break off the unnecessary pieces. To properly lay the first row, sometimes use a metal profile for support.
The tile cutter is a handy tool that allows you to gently cut the tile along the beach line. To create circular holes, use special forceps or a nozzle for a "ballerina" drill
For the application of different compositions different spatulas are used. Tile glue is usually applied with a special notched trowel, the size of the teeth depends on the size of the element. Such a spatula allows you to apply glue more evenly, reduce the consumption of the composition, reduce the amount of surplus.
Plastic crosses are indispensable for forming a perfectly smooth seam between the tiles. Excess glue, protruding between seams, should be immediately removed with a sponge, not allowing it to dry out.
With the help of plastic cross-shaped fasteners it is easy to provide an even width of the tile joint when laying ceramic tiles
The walls of the prepared room are treated with a priming composition, then they are applied with an oil-impregnating waterproofing, usually in two layers. A layer of primer and each waterproofing layer should be given the necessary time for drying, taking into account the manufacturer's recommendations. Failure to comply with this rule can significantly degrade the adhesion of tiles to the wall.
Step-by-step work technology
The process of laying the tiles on the wall is simple and time-tested. Some instructions on how to properly place the tiles on the wall, instructs you to lay the elements from the top edge of the wall to the bottom. In practice, the tile is usually placed from the bottom, as it is more convenient. An important condition: constantly verify the location of the elements horizontally and vertically.
At first it is recommended to lay out the bottom row of tiles without glue, i.e. just put the tiles along the walls. Immediately it becomes obvious whether it is necessary to cut the tile and where to place the incomplete elements, so as not to spoil the drawing.
If a space of more than 25 mm appears between two adjacent tiles, another stowage scheme
Usually attempts to fit the arrangement of elements to such a large gap do not bring success. It's easier to prune the tile with which the row starts.
After that, on the wall with chalk or pencil should be noted the place of the beginning and end of the series, i.e. first and last tiles. Beat the first row with a horizontal level. To do this, below the walls, draw a horizontal line along the entire width of the wall.
If this line is correctly drawn along the four walls of the room, its beginning and end must coincide. The absence of such a coincidence means that the markup is not executed correctly, it needs to be remade.
Before laying ceramic tiles on the wall, apply the markings necessary for work with a chalk, a pencil or a marker
Then, using a plumb line, you need to draw vertical lines. In the process of laying the vertical and horizontal lines of tiles laid, you should constantly monitor to avoid mistakes.
Even a small deviation that was not noticed at the beginning can subsequently lead to a noticeable skew, and all work has to be remade. Another important point in the layout: the place of joints of the base plates. Tile seam should not coincide with them.
The laser construction level can significantly facilitate quality control during the laying of ceramic tiles, but the usual level and plumb are also suitable
To facilitate the laying process, the work is done in small sections. It is recommended to mark with horizontal lines the joint of each four rows of tiles. After choosing a small area, apply pre-prepared tile glue to it with a notched trowel, then tile is laid on top. Then check the quality of work using a level and a plumb.
Usually, a tile adhesive is applied to a small area of the wall, and then the tile is laid on it in accordance with the pre-drawn scheme
If any distortions are found, the work is reworked. After that, lay the next section, check it, etc. To make the distance between the tiles the same, fixing pins are placed at the corners of each element.
It is very important that the tile adhesive evenly fills the entire space under the tile. Emptiness can be detected with the help of accurate tapping.
The process of laying the tiles on the wall is presented in detail in the following video:
Experienced masters sometimes put glue not on the wall, but immediately on the tile. This way also has a full right to exist. It is believed that the surface of the tile, when in contact with the adhesive, can slightly dry it.
It is recommended to moisten the surface of the tile with water before laying to prevent the glue from drying out and maintain the recommended humidity. If the glue protrudes between the seams of the tile, it must be removed immediately using a damp cloth or sponge. The dried tile adhesive is removed more difficultly, it is possible to spoil all the work.
Instead of a special tile glue, you can use cement mortar to save, but in this case, there may be some problems. For starters, novice tilers will find it difficult to prepare the right cement slurry. In addition, to work with such a composition requires a certain skill.
With modern technology, it is possible to obtain a composition with the desired properties: pour time, how firmly adheres, particle size, how many will serve, etc.
At present, even experienced masters prefer reliable adhesive compounds to cement mortar. When studying the manufacturer's instructions for tile adhesive, one should take into account the recommendations for the tools to be applied. The default is a notched trowel. Here are a few recommendations for working with tile glue:
- the consistency of the tile adhesive for walls should not be too thick and not too liquid;
- for laying ceramic tiles on the wall, it is worth choosing an adhesive with a shorter setting time to avoid accidentally deforming the position of the already laid tile;
- pressing the element to the layer of glue laid on the wall, you should apply a moderate effort, so as not to damage the tile and not squeeze out from it an excessively large amount of glue;
- if part of the glue that has come out on the surface is still withered, a plastic or wooden spatula is used to remove the surplus, but not metal, which can be scratched by the tile.
If it is necessary to make a smooth cut on the tile, it is best to use a tile cutter. On the front side of the element should make a notch, and then quickly draw the cutting edge of the tile cutter in the right place several times. After that, the tile easily breaks down the incision line.
The way to cut a tile without tiles is presented on this video:
After the tile laying is finished, the final stage of finishing works - grouting of seams - comes. For grouting use a special trowel, which must be selected correctly by color. You can choose a grout that completely matches the color of the tile or the composition of a darker / light shade.
If the trowelling composition of the desired color is not on sale, you can mix a darker grout with white to achieve the desired effect. Sometimes use a contrasting in color grout so that the tile seam is prominent. For the application of the trowelling compound, a special rubber trowel is used, which is moved not along and across the tile rows, but diagonally. After finishing the trowel work, the tile can be washed immediately.
Grout the seams of ceramic tiles performed with a special composition and rubber spatula, the movement of which should be directed at an angle to the seam
Laying tiles is a laborious process, requiring careful attention. However, the result is a reliable finish, capable of perfect service for many years.